DIY Cable Gallery!!
Jun 30, 2014 at 6:52 PM Post #13,726 of 16,305
  rewired bike helmet
for the 3rd time
cable stripped from mogami 2799
drivers from koss titanium (10 bucks amazon)
shortened neutrik right angle plugs
attached E6 with velcro
 
finally sounds good with no distortion
 
 
 
 

 
Very clever. I love retrofit DIY projects. Great work!
 
Jun 30, 2014 at 7:36 PM Post #13,728 of 16,305
  thanks
 
this is my 3rd bluetooth helmet
(and 3rd rework this one so its like #6)
they all just sound like total crap
 
all i'm using from stock is the bluetooth module

 
I don't know what kind of BT module you are using, but if you get one like this: LINKit's capable of streaming 16/48 audio, which should be very adequate for the application. Plus it's cheap enough to rip apart. Also, the way you have the drivers in the helmet means that they will resonate like crazy. You need them in some kind of enclosure. That's probably why you were getting so much distortion. I think the Koss KSC75 would do great in this situation.
 
Jun 30, 2014 at 7:58 PM Post #13,729 of 16,305
   
I don't know what kind of BT module you are using, but if you get one like this: LINKit's capable of streaming 16/48 audio, which should be very adequate for the application. Plus it's cheap enough to rip apart. Also, the way you have the drivers in the helmet means that they will resonate like crazy. You need them in some kind of enclosure. That's probably why you were getting so much distortion. I think the Koss KSC75 would do great in this situation.

the bluetooth is built in to the helmet
 

 
so i have volume control etc.
the signal is clean at low volume
hence the need for the amp
the drivers are from koss KTXPRO1's 
its the same style as the KSC75 but
a different driver still they are in the enclosure
from the headphone and inside a pocket in the helmet liner
its pretty good sounding now with no distortion
at a decent volume, its a bit of a tradeoff because 
i don't want to modify, cut or drill any part of the helmet
for safety reasons... 
 
Jun 30, 2014 at 9:47 PM Post #13,730 of 16,305
the bluetooth is built in to the helmet




so i have volume control etc.
the signal is clean at low volume
hence the need for the amp
the drivers are from koss KTXPRO1's 
its the same style as the KSC75 but
a different driver still they are in the enclosure
from the headphone and inside a pocket in the helmet liner
its pretty good sounding now with no distortion
at a decent volume, its a bit of a tradeoff because 
i don't want to modify, cut or drill any part of the helmet
for safety reasons... 


Ahh OK! I get it.
 
Jul 3, 2014 at 9:15 AM Post #13,731 of 16,305
Ok here's a shot in the dark....
 
I have a Single Ended Silver Poison Frank made for my Sennheiser IE8's.
He's now sending me a Balanced Viper to replace it, So I have a spare Silver poison!
 
Heres my problem..
 
I have a pair of Beyerdynamic T50p Teslas that were given to me as faulty/not working.
 
After a rather clumsy fumble around with the original cable and then a spare Switchcraft 3.5 I had laying around, I've figured its the Jack.
 
Anyway, Its still not sounding fantastic and I know its down to my temporary measures...
 
So, Im thinking I want to use the Silver Poison I already have to replace the existing cable.
Ill leave the Viablue 3.5 on one end, But when I disconnect the IE8 connectors, How do I know which wire is positive etc ( With it all the same colour )???...
 
I have a multi meter but haven't got a clue how to use one!
 
Any help would be greatly appreciated folks, Thank you in advance!! :)
 
Jul 3, 2014 at 9:26 AM Post #13,732 of 16,305
How do I know which wire is positive etc ( With it all the same colour )???...
 
I have a multi meter but haven't got a clue how to use one!
 
 

Put your multimeter on the ends of the wires and on the 3 x invidual sections of the viablue. Use a marker.
 
Quick google of a pic
 

Edit: Turn your MM to the sound/beeper so when you connect the two conductors i.e. the tip and the correct wire it beeps
 

 
 
Hope this makes sense and helps :)
 
Jul 3, 2014 at 9:31 AM Post #13,733 of 16,305
Jul 4, 2014 at 9:16 PM Post #13,736 of 16,305
I want to thank Jodgey for the help and encouragement, I finished my first DIY with soldering ever today, two rca interconnects.  My nylon sleeve and heatshrink only fit the mogami mini starquad I'm going to use next for my headphone cable so these are plain looking naked cables but knowing I made these myself I feel extra confident about a good solid connection when I plug them in.  Haven't had time to compare sound yet
neutrik rean nys373 rca plugs, mogami W2524 instrument cable, cardas quad eutectic solder, 2 feet interconnects
 

 

 
Jul 5, 2014 at 12:55 AM Post #13,737 of 16,305
  I want to thank Jodgey for the help and encouragement, I finished my first DIY with soldering ever today, two rca interconnects.  My nylon sleeve and heatshrink only fit the mogami mini starquad I'm going to use next for my headphone cable so these are plain looking naked cables but knowing I made these myself I feel extra confident about a good solid connection when I plug them in.  Haven't had time to compare sound yet
neutrik rean nys373 rca plugs, mogami W2524 instrument cable, cardas quad eutectic solder, 2 feet interconnects

I'm really glad to have helped! They look great - a very clean and classy look!
 
Jul 6, 2014 at 12:14 PM Post #13,738 of 16,305
My first DIY power cables :
 

http://www.head-fi.org/g/i/1143525/diy-power-cable-carol-3x-10awg-3c-sjoow-techflex-1-2-wattgate-plugs/
 
900x900px-LL-7503306b_powercable-1040128.jpeg
 
http://www.head-fi.org/g/i/1143526/diy-power-cable-carol-3x-10awg-3c-sjoow-wattgate-220v-schuko/sort/display_order/
900x900px-LL-02db1190_powercable-1040129.jpeg
 
 
http://www.head-fi.org/g/i/1143527/diy-power-cable-belden-83803-3x-12awg-wattgate-plugs/sort/display_order/
900x900px-LL-6ac4a7a0_powercable-1040132.jpeg
 
http://www.head-fi.org/g/i/1143528/diy-power-cable-belden-83803-3x-12awg-wattgate-plugs/
 
900x900px-LL-db2e428b_powercable-1040134.jpeg
 
Jul 7, 2014 at 6:29 AM Post #13,739 of 16,305
Jul 7, 2014 at 10:03 AM Post #13,740 of 16,305
The first based on the thick Carol is pretty flexible.
With the grey Techflex it was a little too thick for the heat shrink to fit, so I fixed the Techflex just using electrical tape.
The individual 10 AWG however didn't fit into the IEC plug, so I had to trim it down a little. No issues with the Schuko plug on the other end.
 
The Belden 83803 based cable is a pain to work with.
It's shielded (foil and tinned copper braid) and it's really inflexible but I hope I will be able to bend it into place once I have the amp it's intended for.
 

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