Crack;Bottlehead OTL
Mar 22, 2017 at 4:35 PM Post #8,281 of 12,347
  In a few minutes i will show you more screws on the top plate for some other upgrades like 2 FILM CAPS and for the DIODES some people used adhesive to hold the film caps i just don't trust the adhesive due to the high heat created by the amp that is why i just drilled those holes and used screws so many ways you can attach those upgrades but this is how i did mine.


I am increasing the height of my cabinet so I can include VU meters. I will have four inch copper plates on front and back so it is feasible I can attach to the back plate if need be and I will have extra room besides so I will have some flexibility on changing out parts.  I am hoping to limit my openings in the top plate but every now and then I may still have to drill a couple holes.
 
Mar 22, 2017 at 4:35 PM Post #8,282 of 12,347
Noticed the 4 screws on the plate by the transformer the 2 on the side of the tranny is for the diodes and the 2 in front of the tranny is for the film caps now at least you can decide how would you like to attach those upgrades if you ever decide to do them.I hope you make those plate larger and the box taller so you have more room to install those upgrades,Hope this help.
These are old photos.


 


 
Mar 22, 2017 at 4:36 PM Post #8,283 of 12,347
 
  In a few minutes i will show you more screws on the top plate for some other upgrades like 2 FILM CAPS and for the DIODES some people used adhesive to hold the film caps i just don't trust the adhesive due to the high heat created by the amp that is why i just drilled those holes and used screws so many ways you can attach those upgrades but this is how i did mine.


I am increasing the height of my cabinet so I can include VU meters. I will have four inch copper plates on front and back so it is feasible I can attach to the back plate if need be and I will have extra room besides so I will have some flexibility on changing out parts.  I am hoping to limit my openings in the top plate but every now and then I may still have to drill a couple holes.

Ooops! late reply.
 
Mar 22, 2017 at 4:41 PM Post #8,284 of 12,347
  Ooops! late reply.


Np, those caps do take up some space. I will have some plugs and jacks in mine because I am pulling things off the top plate and I will need to be able to access any portion of the electronics for upgrades. My on off switch will be on the front and I hope to not have any wires poking out of the top of the plate.
 
Mar 22, 2017 at 4:46 PM Post #8,286 of 12,347
 
  Ooops! late reply.


Np, those caps do take up some space. I will have some plugs and jacks in mine because I am pulling things off the top plate and I will need to be able to access any portion of the electronics for upgrades. My on off switch will be on the front and I hope to not have any wires poking out of the top of the plate.

more space you will need for the choke,bypass caps,attenuator maybe more film cap/s or bypass cap for the power supply.Be careful re-routing those wirings you may encounter some HUM issue.
 
Mar 22, 2017 at 5:10 PM Post #8,287 of 12,347
  more space you will need for the choke,bypass caps,attenuator maybe more film cap/s or bypass cap for the power supply.Be careful re-routing those wirings you may encounter some HUM issue.

I will more than likely use shielded wires when I do reroute some of them. The electronics is the easy part for me, getting the esthetics right for my vision will be the tricky part.
 
 If I upgrade much I will definitely want to upgrade my headphones, I am just modifying some with 250 ohm drivers to get by until I catch a deal on some high end ones. I have not read much of this thread but I seem to recall saying that with changing some of the capacitors you are more likely to need 600 ohm headphones.  I can put those drivers in as well but they are not cheap.
 
Mar 22, 2017 at 5:18 PM Post #8,288 of 12,347
  Doc B.
 
Would you take a look at the power transformer? Is this original bottlehead? 
 
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/2VwAAOSwax5Ywtfz/s-l1600.jpg
 
 
Thanks.
 
Dr. L

Looks like the power transformer is stock. So I will presume you are asking about that little choke that has been hung under the stock through-chassis mounted power transformer. Very important first thing -
 
if it says MADE IN CHINA, it's not a Bottlehead transformer. Bottlehead transformers and inductors are made in the Democratic People's Republic of Kalifornia (aka North Kalifornia). And they have Bottlehead printed on the label. We design them ourselves, working with the winder. 
 
Secondly that's a choke, not a transformer, that someone added. Not stock. Not supported by Bottlehead. Presumably added in the power supply. Not, in my opinion, worth the trouble. Whoever built it will probably argue that the Crack is much better when you add $750 worth of extra boutique parts. I will argue that you will be better off stepping up to a Crackatwoa at that point, which actually improves the design, not just the parts brands.
 
Mar 22, 2017 at 6:16 PM Post #8,290 of 12,347
thanks. Doc. B. That's very prompt and thorough answer. Thumbs up.
 
By the way, I assume you count Wa as part of Democratic People's Republic of Kalifornia?
biggrin.gif

 
Cheers!
 
Dr. L
 
Mar 22, 2017 at 7:02 PM Post #8,291 of 12,347
I did not catch the sale date for the Crack. I assume it is over, now my son wants one, I should have grabbed two when I had the chance.
 
My son is interested in my cabinet upgrades. They will either be wonderful or suck, probably no in between. It is how I play ping pong, every shot is either a winner or some innocent bystander gets smacked in the derriere by an extremely wild miss. One way or the other, the ball is not going back and forth over the net a lot.
 
Mar 22, 2017 at 10:39 PM Post #8,292 of 12,347
  Noticed the 4 screws on the plate by the transformer the 2 on the side of the tranny is for the diodes and the 2 in front of the tranny is for the film caps now at least you can decide how would you like to attach those upgrades if you ever decide to do them.I hope you make those plate larger and the box taller so you have more room to install those upgrades,Hope this help.
These are old photos.
 

 
I think you should try some large caps. Those look wimpy!
 
wink.gif

 
Mar 22, 2017 at 11:02 PM Post #8,293 of 12,347
I am definitely going with a taller box. In effect I will have three plates, all at the same ground potential. It is taking me a while to get all the parts together but it probably took me a total of ten minutes to envision the design. The electronic build might take me six hours but the cosmetics will take longer. I am starting with a 1.37 inch diameter solid copper rod for volume knob and switch housing. And being a Gemini, I do things in twos, so I will build two amps.
 

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