[kadas152]

Nicehck N3 measurements:

yeah, but i wonder a little bit if this is due to the measuerment equipment somehow. The other posted graph for the trn h1 by @darmanastartes also has a double peak in the 2-5khz range followed by a huge dip to 8khz with a small plateau around 6-7khz. Given that the trn h1 has a very different shape and driver config i find that a little odd.

Yeah I wonder too. I definitely don’t hear so huge dip in 8k on my N3s
I guess bass and midrange sounds close to graph but I am not really sure about treble.

 

[darmanastartes]

I'm pretty sure the 8k dip is an artifact of the vinyl coupler I use.
If you look at the official manufacturer's graph you can see peaks in more or less the same places, just squashed due to scale manipulation, minus the 8k valley.

 

[darmanastartes]

Jim recommends the N3 be burned in for at least 100 hours before regular use. I'm not a huge believer in burn-in, but the N3 uses driver types I don't have a lot of experience with, so we'll see what happens.
For the moment I'll just say these are going to be polarizing headphones. As a detail fiend I like them a lot, but they are bright out of the box and probably will not appeal to treble-sensitive folks or people who need a lot of bass.
The materials used in the N3's drivers are a revelation as far as speed and detail retrieval. Soundstage is a bit closed-in and I haven't made up my mind about instrument separation.
Full review to follow.

 

[kadas152]

I'm pretty sure the 8k dip is an artifact of the vinyl coupler I use.
If you look at the official manufacturer's graph you can see peaks in more or less the same places, just squashed due to scale manipulation, minus the 8k valley.

Jim recommends the N3 be burned in for at least 100 hours before regular use. I'm not a huge believer in burn-in, but the N3 uses driver types I don't have a lot of experience with, so we'll see what happens.
For the moment I'll just say these are going to be polarizing headphones. As a detail fiend I like them a lot, but they are bright out of the box and probably will not appeal to treble-sensitive folks or people who need a lot of bass.
The materials used in the N3's drivers are a revelation as far as speed and detail retrieval. Soundstage is a bit closed-in and I haven't made up my mind about instrument separation.
Full review to follow.

Yeah NiceHCK’s measurements are more like it minus that squashed scale. I was actually expecting peak around 8k as they are definitely bright and was quite surprised by your measurements.
Can you share your measurement setup?

I agree with your impressions about sound. Need more listening time and ABing before any conclusion can me made. Anyway I’ve left them on burn in station too and won’t touch them at least before end of weekend.

Looking forward to your review

 

[darmanastartes]

Yeah NiceHCK’s measurements are more like it minus that squashed scale. I was actually expecting peak around 8k as they are definitely bright and was quite surprised by your measurements.
Can you share your measurement setup?

I agree with your impressions about sound. Need more listening time and ABing before any conclusion can me made. Anyway I’ve left them on burn in station too and won’t touch them at least before end of weekend.

Looking forward to your review

I use a Dayton iMM-6 mic, a Ugreen USB audio interface, and a vinyl tubing coupler. It's certainly not authoritative but it's still useful.

 

[trumpethead]

Dang, must say the build quality on the TRN IM1 is really bad. My faceplate fell off and now i am afraid the metal shell will fall off too. Use some double sided tape to hold them tgt at the moment. Keeping my fingers crossed on this.

Side note, the MH755 tips and the Tennmak Piano are a great combi!

Yes I'm finding the MH755 tips to be great with a lot of different earphones...ordered two more primarily for the tips..Really good on CM5!

 

[weedophile]

Yes I'm finding the MH755 tips to be great with a lot of different earphones...ordered two more primarily for the tips..Really good on CM5!

I find the large ones does real well on the CM5 and TRN IM1. The M ones are superb on the ED9! Havent tried on the whole lot.

Even if the MH755 is not a must have, their tips are!

 

[Slater]

I find the large ones does real well on the CM5 and TRN IM1. The M ones are superb on the ED9! Havent tried on the whole lot.

Even if the MH755 is not a must have, their tips are!

Agreed. I ordered a few extra sets of MH755 simply for the tips! Having extra IEMs and/or drivers was just like an added bonus LOL

 

[audionab]

Yes! ...Definitely the **** will please you for the price versus sound, quality, and overall value! Sorry for your lost of the C10, though you should be fine with either the **** or C10.

Here's a run down on both of them from my profile homepage...

RATING CHART Highest Rating Possible: 10

PSR = PRO SOUND RATING
SS = SOUND SIGNATURE
BQ = BUILD QUALITY
OP = OVERALL PACKAGE
OV = OVERALL VALUE

NOTE: Top position will go towards PRO SOUND RATING (PSR)


HYBRIDS DD + Piezo Tweeter(s) (+ BA Armature(s)):

****
HD large drivers + BA armature + Piezo Ceramic Drivers per side
PSR: 10
SS: Luscious with excellent transparency and hi-end details/micro-details, life-like MID's, and fast textured sub-bass/bass with excellent soundstage and resolution!
BQ: 9
OP: 8
OV: 10
COMMENTS: Interestingly, it's "neutral" when used with its default and packaged ear tips, but easily can be converted to "balanced" when used with aftermarket silicone ear tips! Though, they actually get my top rating of 10 PSR for its neutral + natural sound signature!


HYBRIDS DD + BA Armature(s):

CCA C10
HD Driver + 4 BA Drive Units per side with CCA exclusive crossover network circuitry
PSR: 10
SS: Premium sound quality! -deep punchy sub-bass, excellent clean vocals, silky pristine hi-end details with solid and superior soundstage and resolution!
BQ: 10
OP: 7
OV: 10
COMMENTS: Give them at least 20 hours of playtime and they'll blossom to grant you supremacy at such a low price over more expensive models!...These are definitely a perfect 10 in PSR!


To check out more? Go to my profile homepage...
https://www.head-fi.org/members/1clearhead.363120/


Hope this helps...


-Clear

which one did you like better from these two in terms of overall sound quality

 

[Slater]

Hey, any HiFi Walker A7 triple driver users out there.

If you haven’t already done so, swap out the crap stock cable for a better cable.

The stock mmcx cable has a ridiculous 1.7ohm impedance. I swapped it for a better mmcx cable with a 0.4ohm impedance, and it noticeably cleaned up the sound!

Still amazed this was $15 lol

 

[NymPHONOmaniac]

Hey, any HiFi Walker A7 triple driver users out there.

If you haven’t already done so, swap out the crap stock cable for a better cable.

The stock mmcx cable has a ridiculous 1.7ohm impedance. I swapped it for a better mmcx cable with a 0.4ohm impedance, and it noticeably cleaned up the sound!

Still amazed this was $15 lol

Hey Slater, how do you measure cable impedance?? This is surely the factual PROOF to share to people that are sceptical about cable improvment....wich is in fact perhaps cable defect of lot of them?? Anyway, as other, I can't convince myself i'm dumb when I hear difference between cable...

Im very curious to know impedance difference between copper 6 cores cheap but nice looking cable and some SPC 4 cores I have and find very trustable.

 

[weedophile]

I think if we do a blind test and change the cable from stock to an aftermarket cable, we can hear a huge difference.

But if its a $10 6N silver plated vs a branded $150 6N silver plated on the other hand... PS: I havent tried it and probably will never (unless i have $$ to burn), the difference will likely be minimal unless the brain tells us "its frigging 15x the price of the other, look better. That must be better!"

Still, i would love to share when i have that much $$ to burn but if u tell me, "hey there is a cable that is sooooo awesome, u will nv regret getting it at $150" vs "there are these 3 hyped IEM at $50, a stepup from the chi-fi game, probably must have for sub $50 category, must try", i would probably go for the latter lol

 

[NymPHONOmaniac]

Yeah, but what is the BS and isn't?? Its puzzle me!

I will never spend more than....let's say...50$ for iem and headphones TOTL cable, and perhaps 100$ for speaker.

Lately I buy a SPC twisted cable with metal fancy L jack but no connector from RY store for 3.5$....and guess what, its the very same one I get from banned seller for 25$ but with MMCX connector that I guess...cost....21.5$(??).

Lot of BS about cable, and lot of BS cable too. I'm curious to know the truth about conductivity, wich will be know by impendance measurment...the 10-20$ 6 cores copper from same shady seller is somewhat sounding more smoother, and its a balanced one, my only one...wich I think perhaps do not give perfect conductivity.

A thread about cable measurment would be SO ENLIGHTENING!!!! (is there any?)

 

[Slater]

Hey Slater, how do you measure cable impedance?? This is surely the factual PROOF to share to people that are sceptical about cable improvment....wich is in fact perhaps cable defect of lot of them?? Anyway, as other, I can't convince myself i'm dumb when I hear difference between cable...

Im very curious to know impedance difference between copper 6 cores cheap but nice looking cable and some SPC 4 cores I have and find very trustable.

I set my multimeter on resistance, and attach 1 lead to the 3.5mm end (3.5mm ground for example ie the bottom ring on a TRS plug), and the other lead on the appropriate pin on the other end (the outer section of an mmcx male connector for example, which is ground as well).

Then I repeat the readings with L+ and R+ and average the 3 results.

I use hook leads, to ensure a good connection with as much surface area as possible.

It’s also very important to make sure not to hold the cable plugs or the conductive ends of the multimeter leads with your fingers, because your skin will change the resistance and throw off the readings.

Also, my multimeter has a cancel function, which automatically subtracts the impedance of the multimeter leads so I don’t have to do the calculation myself. It’s marked “REL” on my meter.

P.S. - I'll add that I am using the term impedance as we generally use it on HeadFi. Impedance (as we refer to it) is basically cable resistance and the terms are often used interchangeably when talking about audio cables. But from a signal engineering standpoint, it is 2 different things: resistance is used for DC, impedance is used for AC. More specifically, impedance = resistance + reactance. I will not go into it further here, because it is already off topic. But I did want to clarify that because there are EEs amongst the HF community.

 

[weedophile]

Yeah, but what is the BS and isn't?? Its puzzle me!

I will never spend more than....let's say...50$ for iem and headphones TOTL cable, and perhaps 100$ for speaker.

Lately I buy a SPC twisted cable with metal fancy L jack but no connector from RY store for 3.5$....and guess what, its the very same one I get from banned seller for 25$ but with MMCX connector that I guess...cost....21.5$(??).

Lot of BS about cable, and lot of BS cable too. I'm curious to know the truth about conductivity, wich will be know by impendance measurment...the 10-20$ 6 cores copper from same shady seller is somewhat sounding more smoother, and its a balanced one, my only one...wich I think perhaps do not give perfect conductivity.

A thread about cable measurment would be SO ENLIGHTENING!!!! (is there any?)

I think this is the one