[customNuts]

 
Quote:

This is going to be a bedside rig so the iPod will be the source.
For headphone cables I was looking at/considering these http://www.head-fi.org/t/577528/hifiman-series-moon-audio-silver-dragon-v3-cable
 
Do you have the 10SE? If so, how do you like the DAC?
 
TIA.

@jtiis, As stated, you will not be able to connect your ipod to the 10SE without a device which extracts the digital signal off it - then on to the 10SE via coax SPIDIF (or optical).
 
http://www.pure.com/products/product.asp?Product=VL-61429&Category=Dock 
 
The ipure is by far the best value imo. It gives you the option of SPIDIF optical or Coaxial ( and it's own dac if you ever want to use it with  just an amp - ie not the 10SE)
 
You will need a coaxial cable or a toslink optical cable depending on your choice - typically coax is the prefered option but a good glass toslink should give you on par quality from my experiance.
 
I can recommend Lifatec Silflex glass optical cables - excellent value and performance.
http://www.lifatec.com/toslink2.html 
 
For coax I would recommend Black Cat Veloce 123 - again great value & performance for the money. I have had both these cables.
http://thecableco.com/Product/Black-Cat-Cable-s-Veloce----123 
 
A cheaper optical is the 1300 core plastic sys-concept which I have not tried yet but reviews well.
http://www.sysconcept.ca/product_info.php?products_id=364&osCsid=8miosntf65tl1vl76csf42nr06 
 
Pick your choice between the DIR9001 & WM8805, not alot between them apart form the 96khz limit on DIR9001 which wouldn't worry you using the ipod as a transport.
 
With Headphone cables, they need to be terminated in a 4 pin xlr plug so you can use the 10SE balanced. If you want a silver cable the TWag v2 from Whiplash is really good imo (my hd650's have it) and the Moon Audio Silver Dragon v3 is supposed to be also excellent (haven't heard it yet). Or alternativley a DIY'er could build you something.
 
If you want to use the stock cable, it will need to be re-terminated with the 4 pin xlr plug by either a cable company, DIY'er or your self with the kit Audio_gd offer. (you will need to be able to do basic soldering)
 
Hope this help, If you need more help which is off topic, shoot me a PM but the 10SE is insane value for a completely balanced rig (minus transport).

 

[amcananey]

Can anybody here explain the difference between the NFB-10SE and the NFB-10WM? Or point me to an explanation? I'm sure it has already been discussed in one of these threads, but I can't find it for the life of me...
 
I'd also be interested in a comparison of the NFB-10SE to:
 
(1) a Burson HA-160D,
(2) a balanced DAC + the Little Dot Mk VI+, or
(3) a Schiit Bifrost and some high-quality amp.
 
Thanks!
Adam

 

[amcananey]

FYI, just to avoid misunderstanding, I'm aware of LiqTenExp's comments in post 2 of this thread.

 

[LiqTenExp]

Are you talking hardware differences or ?
 
10SE has a full digital control interface and screen vs. 10WM with push button and pot volume control
10SE has digital relay controlled volume vs 10WM which has a potentiometer volume control
10SE allows you to select through 9 different DAC chip filter/oversampling settings, 10WM you can select 3
10SE has a little less power at 19 Vpp vs 10WM at 21 Vpp
 
Couple comments:
 
The relay volume control is very balanced at low volume levels vs. my other non relay based Audio-gd product.
10SE remembers your last volume when it starts up the next time. (waits for user input to accept this value or default to 0 before playing music though)
 

 

[tme110]

To be clear again, all the -10 models have fully digital volume controls.  In fact, the -10ES and -10WM are better in my opinion since they have a dial instead of the push button - but they are still relay based I-domain digital volume controls.  The WM will also remember where the volume was.  But the -WM and -ES models are more hand made, much heavier, they don't have a screen but have nicer enclosures, they use different parts, etc.  So they are basically the same design amp but the -SE takes advantage of automatic manufacturing, lighter wight for cheaper shipping, is different parts but is still a fantastic amp and a better price point than anything I can think of.

 

[amcananey]

Thanks. I was aware of those differences, but that is a nice summary. I assume it is highly unlikely that anyone has actually heard both the NFB-10SE and the NFB-10WM? On the off chance that they have, were there any noteworthy differences in sound?

 

[LiqTenExp]

ah crap, you are right. I saw the alps pot and didn't look for the relays!
 
I would say the power supply sections are comparable between the two, the NFB-10SE is listed as even a larger capacitance reserve.  The power supply is probably the most important part here. The schematic is the same between the two.
 
The output section looks like the same configuration and still uses BJT to drive the mosfets.  Just SMT vs leaded resistors.  
 
You can also choose your SPDIF interface on the NFB-10SE between the WM part and DIR part.  Not a big deal really but to some it might be.
 
Honestly I would prefer automated part placement/soldering than hand soldering coming out of China. It will be more consistent. Most of the hand soldering I've seen from China looks pretty poor.  An example of this would be Yulong D100 I had to repair a few of the rear panel connections on do to some cold solder joints.  The board was covered in left over flux and was just poorly assembled.  I will say that the Audio-gd hand soldering looks good normally (no real concern there).

 

[Aurosonic]

I have a question similar to amcananey's. With the arrival of my LCD-2, I've set out on the task of finding them a proper rig. I've narrowed it down to the options below, and if anyone can chime in with some thoughts, it would be greatly appreciated.
 
1. Audio-GD NFB-3.1 + Audio-GD C-2.2
 
2. Audio-GD NFB-3.1 + Schiit lyr
 
3. Audio-GD NFB-10SE
 
4. Burson HA-160D
 
I'm leaning towards the NFB-10SE because of it's price and it's balanced operation. Sorry if this is OT, but I figured people around here would have experience with AGD stuff.

 

[oqvist]

I have not tested the LCD-2 Rev1 but I am quite disappointed with the NFB10SE balanced for my LCD-2 Rev 2. I really feel the C-2.1 most of the time outperform it. My LCD-2 can be strident and sound a bit nasal with voices and a bit off using the NFB10SE in balanced in comparison. Differences are slim however but I just have to give a nod for the C-2.1 here which sound a bit more right to me. I suspect it may be less then an issue on R1 but have some mysterious cable issue which mean I can´t test it currently.
 
I do enjoy the DAC section a bit more then the amp section though. That said no headphone I put on it has been awful so still a decent allrounder. But a bit on the bright side.
 
 

 

[Aurosonic]

Thanks for the response. I've read similar findings as well. It seems that the -10SE plays a little better with LCD-2 rev. 1's because of their more shelved down highs. But of course there's the whole balanced vs SE side of things.

 

[amcananey]

The NFB-10SE is not Class A, correct?

 

[oqvist]

Quote:

The NFB-10SE is not Class A, correct?

Not operating in Class A it sounded like when I emailed KingWa. Uses transistors.
 
 

 

[Currawong]

It'd be Class A or AB, but it's rather moot.

 

[Mad Lust Envy]

I'm assuming the USB and Opticals are implemeted similarly on the NFB5 as the 10SE (I recall someone mentioning that the NFB5 pretty much = 10SE in single ended mode, with a little more power), so I was wondering what the verdict was. My desktop has both, can't seem to decide which is better.

If it's been asked before, I apologize.

 

[HaVoC-28]

 
Quote:

I'm assuming the USB and Opticals are implemeted similarly on the NFB5 as the 10SE (I recall someone mentioning that the NFB5 pretty much = 10SE in single ended mode, with a little more power), so I was wondering what the verdict was. My desktop has both, can't seem to decide which is better.
If it's been asked before, I apologize.

Coaxial 

 
well on my system they sound all the same .
 
But USB have some latency when i skip track or seek on it , soo beetween USB en Optical i would choose optical (just try if you have some latency or not with usb) .