preproman
Headphoneus Supremus
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2011
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Do it... do itnow!
Pushing me over the fence huh.. Returning the favor?
Do it... do itnow!
Yeah - me to, very annoying
I've been thing about selling my F1J and getting one of these: Pass Labs XA-30.5 stereo power amp
Pass Labs XA-30.5 stereo power amp | Refurbished, very good condition, one year transferable factory warranty, new factory double boxing, Satisfaction Guaranteed S/N D-3446 $2995 Black Friday Sale! |
Well my 4-pin XLR female to bananas adapter arrives tomorrow, and hopefully my HE-6 also, so my speaker amps journey is set to begin!
A few things I wanted to clarify first, having read the entire thread twice and still not feeling 100% crystal on:
- For non-tube amps, no resistance adapter is required at all up to 70W (and not really above that either from the consensus of feedback here, but lots of caution involved if using anything with high watt output)?
- When connecting the HE-6 turn volume down to zero, power on the speaker amp, plug in HE-6. When finished listening turn volume down to zero, unplug HE-6 and then turn off amp (in both scenarios to prevent a possibly damaging on/off "thump" being transmitted to the headphone). Does this apply to amps in the 'safe' range up to 70W?
- I also noted possibility to short the amp if disconnecting the headphones while powered on?
- In relation to that, I saw a few different things mentioned -
- First, if using an adapter into the HE-6 XLR termination, you can just disconnect the headphone from the adapter with impunity even with the amp on (I think HappyCamper mentioned this)?
- Second, I saw that some weren't bothering with disconnecting first, simply dropping volume to zero and turning their amp off. It seems like those doing that were not suffering any ill-effects?
- Reason I mention both of these things is that I would probably rather just get a single cable (no adapter) and leave it and the HE-6 connected to the amp all the time, so if the amp can be powered down safely with volume at zero while the HE-6 is plugged into it that would be great. Since I'm running it off the Reference 10 this would be ideal for me, can leave amp off and use my other headphones direct from the headphone ports in the Ref 10 when some kind of insanity overtakes me and I want to listen to another headphone.
- In relation to suitable amps, they need to offer balanced out via banana plugs (or spades)?
Hopefully someone can quickly verify these for me before I strike out to the audio stores to freak out speaker amp retailers with my odd-ball request to plug my headphones into their speaker amps
I also noted possibility to short the amp if disconnecting the headphones while powered on?
I think the trick with HE-6 is to either enjoy the little extra treble (or if you compare to HD800, slightly extra treble) or to tame the treble by modifying the headphone itself.
Having extra power doesn't change the tonality in my experience and measurements. Both via HM-901 built-in balanced amp and my Audio-gd Master 6 boasting 7W in 50 Ohm it's the same general tonality. Also when I measured Burson Soloist (around 1.7W in 50 Ohm) and Master 6, they both gave the same relative output at 50Hz, 500Hz and 10kHz at 70dB and 101dB. This tells me, that the extra power didn't change the tonality at higher volumes.
However, what surprised me was that at 101dB the treble measured lower with both amps (relative to mids and bass) than at 70dB. This doesn't make sense, but if it really is so, this could explain why people like to turn up the volume with HE-6.
Anybody use a switch after the speaker taps?
I have a pair of HE-5LE's on the way; not HE-6's but a similarly difficult drive. Lower impedance tho, 38 ohms. I plan to run these off of the 16 ohm speaker taps on a DIY tube amp, push-pull 2A3 that puts out about 12W into 8 ohms (actually 6B4G, 6.3v filament octal base version of the 2A3).
I might get by without a parallel resistor (reflected impedance the tubes would see might be inside "normal" curves), but I'll start out with a 30 ohm. Should give me 16 ohms load on the output transformer. A little more than half of the power will be dissipated by the resistor so I should get roughly 5-6W (8 ohm equivalent) power on the phones - just about right I would think.
My issue is switching between the headphones and the speakers. I need a switch. As much as I loath junk in the signal path, swapping cables every time between speakers and phones isn't a viable option. Speakers are on the 8 ohm tap, not sure it that will make the solution easier or more of a mess, haven't thought that through...
Any ideas? DIY is no problem.