[kahldog]

I've never tried it with speakers as I have abandoned that avenue. I have sold all my Wadia, Audio Research and PMC equipment. Too expensive for my crazy affliction. I have seen many amps that look identical such as Music Angel and Ming something. I guess the only reason I chose the Sophia is because of the feedback on line about it.They also have a factory in the US which is closer to Canada than China.What I can glean from all the reports is that there is alot of discrepancy in the layouts and actual assembly.
I guess I lucked out in finding a combination that really appeals to my enjoyment of the music. I now spend more time than ever just enjoying the music. Unfortunately the malady still plagues me and now I am looking at an EL34 amp in triode with a bit more power for the same application. 

 

[exsomnis]

  Been using an O2 amp for a while. Thinking about going for a Mjolnir next. Only thing is the O2 can be harsh/hard/forward in the mid range with my LCD-2r2s on many tracks and I'm thinking the Mjolnir might be the same. Can anybody give a comparison of the two?

 
What DAC are you using?  I don't get that at all with my O2 and iFi DAC - mid range is right where it should be, not forward and not recessed.

 

[kahldog]

I think it is important to look closely at the wattage of the amps you are considering. Manufacturers typically post the spec's with regard to power output given a specified load. For example 10 watts into 8ohm. Given that the LCD's are approximately a 50ohm load one must consider the output of the amp into that load. Use the following formula; 10 x 8 / 50 = 1.6 watts output to the LCD 2"s.
The next thing to consider is that most tube amps will not be comfortable seeing only a 50ohm load and can in some cases damage them. You can install an 8ohm 10 watt wirewound noninductive resistor between the positive and negative speaker outputs on each channel to satisfy the amp. Next it is important that the amp have a common ground as most stereo jack plugs whether 1/4 or 1/8 have a 3 pole connector which means they share a common ground. Simply do a continuity test between the two negative speaker terminals and this will tell you if you have a common ground or not. Connect the leads from a multi-tester to both negative[ground] speaker terminals and set to continuity. If you get tone it means you have common ground. Most amps have common ground but it is better to be certain. I found that more power is better when it comes to my LCD 2's.
To obtain the best possible sound it is important to have the best possible source. If you are using your computer true lossless formats and 320kbps MP3's seem to sound best to me. Also remember that all tracks are not recorded or mastered to the same level so not all songs will sound great. It is imperative to have a good DAC in this application. I use the HRT MS II + in my setup and am pleased with it. I know there are better out there but at what cost? A good player software is important as well. I use the JRiver 19 which has great capabilities. I have heard that Media Monkey is good too. Windows Media Player did not cut it for me.
If you are using CD's or Lp's as your source then get the best components you can afford. Hope this helps. Good luck!!

 

[DefQon]

O2 by itself will make any headphone harsh or sterile sounding at times (which is why I call it an overhyped piece of crap). The Mojo is a different amp all together on the other hand. The Mojo's sound should've been what the O2 should've been. But oh wait it's made by an egotistical designer.

 

[Zashoomin]

  O2 by itself will make any headphone harsh or sterile sounding at times (which is why I call it an overhyped piece of crap). The Mojo is a different amp all together on the other hand. The Mojo's sound should've been what the O2 should've been. But oh wait it's made by an egotistical designer.

I would have to agree that the O2 is overhyped but it is quite good (for the price).  Now it most definately doesn't compete with thousand dollar amps like some people say but it is definately a good peace of gear for $100 so I would not call it a piece of crap.  It doesn't have enough power to power the LCD2's but it is good for some headphones that don't require as much power.  

 

[bassboysam]

  I think it is important to look closely at the wattage of the amps you are considering. Manufacturers typically post the spec's with regard to power output given a specified load. For example 10 watts into 8ohm. Given that the LCD's are approximately a 50ohm load one must consider the output of the amp into that load. Use the following formula; 10 x 8 / 50 = 1.6 watts output to the LCD 2"s.
The next thing to consider is that most tube amps will not be comfortable seeing only a 50ohm load and can in some cases damage them. You can install an 8ohm 10 watt wirewound noninductive resistor between the positive and negative speaker outputs on each channel to satisfy the amp. Next it is important that the amp have a common ground as most stereo jack plugs whether 1/4 or 1/8 have a 3 pole connector which means they share a common ground. Simply do a continuity test between the two negative speaker terminals and this will tell you if you have a common ground or not. Connect the leads from a multi-tester to both negative[ground] speaker terminals and set to continuity. If you get tone it means you have common ground. Most amps have common ground but it is better to be certain. I found that more power is better when it comes to my LCD 2's.
To obtain the best possible sound it is important to have the best possible source. If you are using your computer true lossless formats and 320kbps MP3's seem to sound best to me. Also remember that all tracks are not recorded or mastered to the same level so not all songs will sound great. It is imperative to have a good DAC in this application. I use the HRT MS II + in my setup and am pleased with it. I know there are better out there but at what cost? A good player software is important as well. I use the JRiver 19 which has great capabilities. I have heard that Media Monkey is good too. Windows Media Player did not cut it for me.
If you are using CD's or Lp's as your source then get the best components you can afford. Hope this helps. Good luck!!

 
 
what happens if you don't have common ground?

 

[DefQon]

  I would have to agree that the O2 is overhyped but it is quite good (for the price).  Now it most definately doesn't compete with thousand dollar amps like some people say but it is definately a good peace of gear for $100 so I would not call it a piece of crap.  It doesn't have enough power to power the LCD2's but it is good for some headphones that don't require as much power.  

 
See here lies the problem. When nwavguy was designing and bad mouthing the rest of the manufacturers out there, he called most of the designs oriented around opamp's flawed and hyped and overpriced for what it is, he stated (early in his blog) that the point of the O2 is objectively (hence name) based on a simple circuitry that will compete and overshadow the big boys of similar design out there. And this is where myself and other experienced users come in and say it's a piece of crap designed around tech sheets from IC manufacturers, regardless of price, he egotistically said the O2 will blow expensive crap out of the way, I'm afraid that is far from true. The Schiit Magni is better then the O2, has more power, similar low distortion measurement figures, although it is not portable it is still small enough and actually sounds great for it's value. But you don't hear Jason Stoddard going around claiming the Magni will blow $1000+ SS amp's out of the water, nope you don't.

 

[Barry S]

   
 
what happens if you don't have common ground?

 

[goldendarko]

Don't cross the streams!!!

 

[bassboysam]

I read that if the amp doesn't have a common ground then you can still connect your headphones if you use a balanced cable. Is this true?

 

[kahldog]

I read that if the amp doesn't have a common ground then you can still connect your headphones if you use a balanced cable. Is this true?

That would make sense as you are not twinning the grounds together, as you would, on a typical 3 pin connector found on most 1/4 and 1/8 TRS connectors. If I remember correctly, on an unbalanced jack, one connector is for the tip which is typically left channel, another for the pin which is right channel and the last is ground where both channels are connected. 

 

[kahldog]

 

Yes it would probably be ELECTRIFYING!!

 

[DannyBuoy]

An update on system choices. So I sold the Ref 5 DAC and bought a violectric v200 to go full balanced with the v181. After 3 months, I felt the system lacked dynamics, big sounds just did not deliver like they did on my home setup. I knew I was lacking some energy. So I sold the v181 and v200 and got a complete audio-gd balanced setup with 32 bit usb and using the audio-gd cable between dac and amp instead of XLR. I have had this setup for over a year now and it is an excellent match for the LCD for me. The nfb6 amp is fully discreet with lots of power (I think it is 5 watts at 50 ohms) and the nfb 1.32 DAC is very, very detailed without the harshness I have heard on another 32 bit Sabre DAC. Anyway, this has proven to be the best sounding, most dynamic, energized setup so far. I also have the upgrades in both units, and have audio-gd power cords, and furman filtering and conditioning. Oh yeah, and the silver starlight usb cable. Happiness....
Quote:

 
For what its worth; I owned a WA6SE (Sophia Princess) with Audio-Gd premium power cord and Audio-Gd NFB2 DAC when I first got my LCD2. I thought the sound quality was a big advancement from my D7000 cans and I liked it a lot.
 
About a week later I ordered a Violectric V181 with 24/96 USB module (needed to sell WA6 and NFB2 to fund V181) and for a week or so I had both the V181 and the WA6. After a few A/B comparisons, I unplugged the WA6 and boxed it up for sale. I was thoroughly convinced the SQ of the V181 was vastly better than the WA6 with the LCD2.
 
However, when I did an A/B between my NFB2 DAC and the option USB module in the V181 I was disappointed. The USB module was a waste of money for me. The NFB2 although slightly warmer had much more dynamics in the music. So after selling the NFB2 and WA6SE I decided to buy an Audio-Gd Ref5.
 
So now I am connected to my music server via coax optical to Ref5 and via balanced XLR between Ref5 and V181. During this time I also ordered a Norse Audio 8 wire balanced cable with a nice Neutrik 4 pin connector (which is what the V181 uses). I am on a whole-nuddder-level now. The clarity in the mids and highs are incredibly more detailed and increased separation. The bass is bangin, slammin now. The whole system is just tighter, firmer, crisper, and on and on...
 
I can only speak for what I have tried and what my opinions are of course is based on what I like in sound so keep that in mind but I am very happy (I just got a few cables from Cullen Cables and have replaced the XLR interconnects and coax optical, but still have to connect the power cord but need to drill a 2 inch hole in my desk as the power cord is massive).
 
Good luck!
 
 
Quote:

 

 

[DannyBuoy]

Having went through 5 different dac amp combos on my lcds I can tell you I kept looking for more power until I got to the audio-gd nfb6. I went from yamamoto ha-01 single ended triode, to woo wa6se, to violectric v181, to audio gd- nfb6. I finally felt like I had the dynamics I liked once I was in the 4 to 5 watt range. I also went through several dacs to get to the audio-gd nfb1.32 which I love. So, I reached a point of happiness about a year ago, and have not changed anything since.

 

[DefQon]

The HA-01 pairs wonderfully with Audio Technica woodies and able to drive super efficient speakers just fine. How was it with the LCD2's?