[nickchen]

These really look like good tools.

 

[joincoolkidclub]

Thanks for the responses... sorry about my own lag.
Boilermaker, care to PM me or post here when you're ready to roll?
I'd certainly be interested!

NICK

 

[Mitchell.lax]

Quote:

Originally Posted by apatN /img/forum/go_quote.gif Most of the times it depends on the brand. I have a hole saw that was what, 15€? I also have a hole saw of comparable quality that I found for 6€. Problem is that not all stores carry the cheaper ones. Real pity. Anyway, I hate working with those 'flexible' hole saws. Hate hate hate.

That's why I wanted to get something that was fairly good quality. 15€ was roughly what I was going to pay for a good-quality trade saw. I've tried the cheap flexible or adjustable ones and I swore if something was worth making, I'd give those a wiiiiiiiiiide birth.

I love the idea of two holesaws in one, how'd you do that. Is there a set of spacers you can use on the shaft?

 

[apatN]

Well I have this thing that goes with your regular drill. It basically is a thread where you can twist on the saws and the you can secure them by some pins (that are not visible in the picture). The thread is long enough to fit two hole saws. That's it.

Last tip I would like to give is that you choose the right wood. A couple of weeks a go I was bored and was trying to make some distancers from some spare wood I had lying around. The distancers came out a disaster. For the distancers on the other page I got some wood from my neighbor (did I really type that

) that worked wonders.

 

[Mitchell.lax]

I'd try to get some wood from my neigbour too, but it probably wouldn't work... He's an 80odd year old man

 

[nickchen]

It's not just specification of drill saws and wood specs, but also some "horse sense" of the things that are likely to happen during the work process if you are not careful enough (turn up or burnt wood, overheated tools, etc.). Most of these desasters occur when you are too unpatient.

 

[Mitchell.lax]

Sure. I'll get a big enough section of timber that I can have a few goes if needed.

Sidenote, how do you think the ms1000's would sound with the sock mod pads. They seem about the same distance out as the large grado pads. Has anyone tried it?

 

[apatN]

Quote:

Originally Posted by nickchen /img/forum/go_quote.gif It's not just specification of drill saws and wood specs, but also some "horse sense" of the things that are likely to happen during the work process if you are not careful enough (turn up or burnt wood, overheated tools, etc.). Most of these desasters occur when you are too unpatient.

Exactly. You can see some burnt wood in my pictures as well. Patience is the key.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitchell.lax /img/forum/go_quote.gif Sidenote, how do you think the ms1000's would sound with the sock mod pads. They seem about the same distance out as the large grado pads. Has anyone tried it?

Doesn't really interest me to be honest! I am more interested in DIYing some distancers that fit Beyer pads.

 

[nickchen]

Didn't try the sock mod until now. Beyerpads (C-Pads) sound awful, no matter if the proband is stock or 1000ened.

 

[apatN]

^ Really? I was thinking of building both a distancer piece that fit the MS-1 and a set that doesn't increase the distance but will at least enable the Beyer pads to fit. You didn't like it?

 

[nickchen]

Nope. Nor did NoXter. Probands were (if I remember right) MS1, MS1000, Ms2i, MS Pro Ulti and SR325. Horrible.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by joincoolkidclub /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thanks for the responses... sorry about my own lag. Boilermaker, care to PM me or post here when you're ready to roll? I'd certainly be interested! NICK

Will do Nick! I'm working on sheetmetal case mods on my NABU surplus chassis right now. I have five chassis that I need to get prepped for primer and paint at a local body shop, then I have to wait for them to have a black or navy blue car in for repair... But the price is right this way!

After that's done in the next week or so, I have 5 sets of pucks to make for SFI ortho drivers and I'll tool up the spacers after that.




On the pads, I tried the Senn HD25 pads on both the 325s and RS-1s. Yuck! The Grado sandpaper foam pads are very open pads. Closing them in has a negative impact on the SQ. A open cell foam or stock Grado pad wrapped in velour (or AKG K240 velour pad) could be the solution to comfort and durability without killing the sound quality. I'm going to try to make a spacer ring for the K240 velour pads and see how they sound.

Has anyone been cheap and tried the Gradossandro mod with the cheaper standard versus the GS1K bowls?

 

[nickchen]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan /img/forum/go_quote.gif Has anyone been cheap and tried the Gradossandro mod with the cheaper standard versus the GS1K bowls?

K270 velours pads glued onto quartermodded comfies were comfort heaven and resembled "1000ing" at least a bit (I'd say ~70% of the MS1000 soundscape). In difference to "1000ing", treble gets cut a bit, that is very desirable for a MS2i or a SR325, but I guess things would sound veiled with a MS1 or a MS Pro.

 

[Xan7hos]

Quote:

Originally Posted by nickchen /img/forum/go_quote.gif K270 velours pads glued onto quartermodded comfies were comfort heaven and resembled "1000ing" at least a bit (I'd say ~70% of the MS1000 soundscape). In difference to "1000ing", treble gets cut a bit, that is very desirable for a MS2i or a SR325, but I guess things would sound veiled with a MS1 or a MS Pro.

Going off this, it seems VERY difficult to get mods (C-Pads, 1000ing, etc.) that synergize well with the MS2i. They are truly something else. While I'm still translating its sonic signature, it's very apparent that their shrill highs and lack of bass quantity makes it a very poor candidate for the 1000ing mod. I've tried something similiar to the K270 glued over comfies (K601 pads over Quarter Modded HD414) and it is definitely an improvement over the 1000ing, however, its signature leaves much to be desired - highs are still too shrill, lack of bass, which I love so much from the MS1000. Even with the Caliente, which is a bass-centric amp, bass comes off as rather distant from the MS2i

 

[nickchen]

Obviously another case of quality spread. My MS2i had plenty of bass, almost a bit too much for my liking...