[edgarlim1999]

I'm glad I could help out a Brother in his quest!

 

[ostewart]

I used a large coin and a bench clamp to gently press the drivers out, a little safer than using the knife and looks a lot cleaner on the edges.

Did you ever find the wood cups you were asking about?

I did, guy in the UK had some spalted tamarind cups it was that or get some stock ones as he had those too... But I always wanted woodies so thought why not

Should be with me by the end of the week. I also want some bowl pads, so they're next on the list.

Good tip about removing the drivers too

 

[DavidA]

I did, guy in the UK had some spalted tamarind cups it was that or get some stock ones as he had those too... But I always wanted woodies so thought why not

Should be with me by the end of the week. I also want some bowl pads, so they're next on the list.

Good tip about removing the drivers too

Good luck with your build and posts some pictures when you're done

 

[ostewart]

Here we go, took a bit of sanding, and an afterthought I should probably have sanded down the plastic on the driver housing more, as after sanding the inside of the cups some bits were very thin with small cracks due to the grain in the wood. All fits good, and I did reinforce any little cracks with glue.

The SR60e drivers have 2 holes in the back of the driver and are not lacking in bass response so I did not punch more holes, only dynamat on the back of the magnet.

I'm really surprised by how big a difference cups make...

Looking good, still want bowl pads:

 

[DavidA]

@ostewart , nice job. Is that Canare cable?

 

[Dillan]

Wow beautiful wood

 

[93EXCivic]

I am about to attack a set of SR60e to do some mods. The SR60e has two hole already. Is there need to open up extra holes in the SR60e? I figured I would do the dynamat mod, new cable, swap the grill and put on some 3D printed half cups I am making.

 

[ostewart]

@ostewart , nice job. Is that Canare cable?

Similar, it's Van Damme as it's easier to source in the UK and I got it for trade price as the service engineer where I used to work uses Van Damme so he just added a bunch to his order for me. Still got tons left, it has copper and silver plated copper strands in it.

http://www.van-damme.com/12a.html

It's really nice cable to work with

 

[ostewart]

I am about to attack a set of SR60e to do some mods. The SR60e has two hole already. Is there need to open up extra holes in the SR60e? I figured I would do the dynamat mod, new cable, swap the grill and put on some 3D printed half cups I am making.

Depends on how much bass you want, but I would say don't open until you've done the mods and listened.

Once you have done the mods don't glue them back together, assemble them and listen first then you can decide whether you want more holes.

 

[pepku]

Finally got around to my RS2e with removable cables using SMC connectors. Thanks to @edgarlim1999 for the vinegar suggestion, it made removing the drivers much easier than the first one I did.

Have you used these japanese rice vinegar (mentioned earlier) or normal vinegar? I'm still waiting for my cable, so I have not opened my rs1i yet.

 

[Jazic]

I put some full size pads on some Grado SR60/80's using another set of pads that I modified. It increased the forward sounds soundstage so it's now forward but also wider sounding. I do need a bass boost of about +6dB @ 75hz to add some warmth/umph. The details on the modded Grado's are incredible.

I've parked the MrSpeakers Ether C Flow's since I've had these and haven't looked back. I still use the Flow's when I need closed but the Grado's most of the time have me living with open sound when I need closed.

At home I have the SR80e's and use some Shure SRH1540 pads. They sound best and are most comfortable.

The modified adapter was from the $20ish Amazon leather pads. They sounded like garbage but figured I'd try some larger pads by cutting up some plastic and taping it together. Sure enough it fit, was more comfortable and sounded 100x better.

 

[DavidA]

Have you used these japanese rice vinegar (mentioned earlier) or normal vinegar? I'm still waiting for my cable, so I have not opened my rs1i yet.

I used normal vinegar, was out with some girls who live in my building and they gave me a small container (0.5oz) which was way more that needed. But I also tried the Japanese rice vinegar on a small section and it worked also, no smell after it dried up either. I used a Q-tip to apply the vinegar, needed to let it soak in and apply it a few more times before using the craft knife, it was easier to get the knife into the glue and the glue started to come off much easier which made it easier to go around the cup and dig out most of the glue, still took about 1.5 hours to do both cups, but still faster than the 4-5 hours it took without using the vinegar.

 

[FredGren]

I have never touched or seen a pair of Grado headphones. I have decided to make a pair.
Can someone look at my drawing to see if I have designed cups that will work with stock gimbals and drivers.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5ier2843ht6zzfo/gradostyleheadcup.pdf?dl=0

 

[DavidA]

I have never touched or seen a pair of Grado headphones. I have decided to make a pair.
Can someone look at my drawing to see if I have designed cups that will work with stock gimbals and drivers.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5ier2843ht6zzfo/gradostyleheadcup.pdf?dl=0

I did a few measurement from two of my wood cups and they are all different from yours:
outside diameter of cup: 2.5 in, yours is shown as 3.0 in (stock gimbals will not fit)
pad mounting area: 2.25 in, yours is 2.5 in, width of mounting area: .175 in, yours is .25 in (pads might be able to stretch to fit)
inside diameter of cup: 1.8 in, yours is 1.75 in (fairly close but most drivers are 1.81 in (46mm) diameter, you could still cut it larger to have a ledge to keep the driver from going too far in.

 

[Arty McGhee]

i guess this is a grado mod
this started out as an ra-1 clone board kit from aliexpress
it came as a bag of parts with no instructions
designed and 3-d printed a case