[Anthrox]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ralphp@optonline /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm insulted! To even suggest that I'd send you a bad stylus is just so foul!! All kidding aside, I believe that the stylus presently on the cartridge and the replacement stylus are both in fairly good shape and should not damage your vinyl. The suggestion that you get both styli looked at is still a good one but I can assure you that the styli still have some mileage to go before they become harmful or worthless. In addition, all the other recommendations are right on. A good stylus force gauge, replacement inner sleeves and a nice record brush are very worthwhile investments. The Hunt EDA brush is another record brush worth getting. Plus the tonearm has a finger lift.

Alright. What would be some common signs of when the stylus is on its last legs?

I've already ordered the parts for a bugle phono preamp and a replacement belt.

I've got the hunt eda brush, inner sleeves and the shure force gauge in my shopping cart at TTVJ. Anything else I'm missing? I'm planning on using the alignment tool I found online (link in previous post) assuming it'll work. Should I get a bubble level and will any one work?

I just realized that I've completely hijacked this thread.

Although I suppose it still fits under the title.

 

[ralphp@optonline]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anthrox /img/forum/go_quote.gif Alright. What would be some common signs of when the stylus is on its last legs? I've already ordered the parts for a bugle phono preamp and a replacement belt. I've got the hunt eda brush, inner sleeves and the shure force gauge in my shopping cart at TTVJ. Anything else I'm missing? I'm planning on using the alignment tool I found online (link in previous post) assuming it'll work. Should I get a bubble level and will any one work? I just realized that I've completely hijacked this thread. Although I suppose it still fits under the title.

How do you tell if a stylus is on it's last legs? Good question and I wish I had a simple for you but it's not all that easy. As stated earlier in this thread, the best way is to look at the very tip under some type of magnification such a jeweler's loop or a very strong magnifying glass. First make sure that the stylus is clean since a dirty stylus will look really bad. then look for any damage to the tip? Does it look symmetrical and does it still have a clearly defined point at the tip? If not then it could very well need replacing.

The cartridge alignment tool that you linked to will do quite nicely. And any small (6") level should work well enough to get the table fairly level. Just set the level down on the platter in a few different spots and adjust the turntable until the level is always level. As for what else you might need, you're still missing something to clean the stylus with. Any small, as in tiny, brush will do. A good quality paint brush (the kind of paint brush used for painting pictures not walls) will work quite well.

I don't think that you've hijacked the thread at all since as you said, all this posts have been about advice for things vinyl which is what this thread is about.

 

[Ingo]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anthrox /img/forum/go_quote.gif Alright. What would be some common signs of when the stylus is on its last legs? I've already ordered the parts for a bugle phono preamp and a replacement belt. I've got the hunt eda brush, inner sleeves and the shure force gauge in my shopping cart at TTVJ. Anything else I'm missing? I'm planning on using the alignment tool I found online (link in previous post) assuming it'll work. Should I get a bubble level and will any one work? I just realized that I've completely hijacked this thread. Although I suppose it still fits under the title.

Psshhh.. You haven't hijacked anything. You're adding valuable information to this thread with each question you ask. Between your q's, my questions, and the answers from the collective pool of Head-fi vinyl afficionados there's enough info here for anyone looking to spin their first record to have a huge headstart.

 

[Anthrox]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ralphp@optonline /img/forum/go_quote.gif How do you tell if a stylus is on it's last legs? Good question and I wish I had a simple for you but it's not all that easy. As stated earlier in this thread, the best way is to look at the very tip under some type of magnification such a jeweler's loop or a very strong magnifying glass. First make sure that the stylus is clean since a dirty stylus will look really bad. then look for any damage to the tip? Does it look symmetrical and does it still have a clearly defined point at the tip? If not then it could very well need replacing. The cartridge alignment tool that you linked to will do quite nicely. And any small (6") level should work well enough to get the table fairly level. Just set the level down on the platter in a few different spots and adjust the turntable until the level is always level. As for what else you might need, you're still missing something to clean the stylus with. Any small, as in tiny, brush will do. A good quality paint brush (the kind of paint brush used for painting pictures not walls) will work quite well. I don't think that you've hijacked the thread at all since as you said, all this posts have been about advice for things vinyl which is what this thread is about.

I already have some small paint brushes so that works out well. Should I just be dry brushing it or do I need some sort of accompanying fluid?

 

[ssportclay]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anthrox /img/forum/go_quote.gif Alright. What would be some common signs of when the stylus is on its last legs? I've already ordered the parts for a bugle phono preamp and a replacement belt. I've got the hunt eda brush, inner sleeves and the shure force gauge in my shopping cart at TTVJ. Anything else I'm missing? I'm planning on using the alignment tool I found online (link in previous post) assuming it'll work. Should I get a bubble level and will any one work? I just realized that I've completely hijacked this thread. Although I suppose it still fits under the title.

The free downloaded protractor should work OK.I find all of them a bit frustrating to use but my personal favorite is the mirored Van der Hul alignment gauge,(more and finer lines than the turntablebasics).A stylus must be looked at under a microscope to find wear and damage.An old stylus with few hours on it may also not sound great.You are probably OK anyhow and Jico is always an option.

 

[Anthrox]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ssportclay /img/forum/go_quote.gif The free downloaded protractor should work OK.I find all of them a bit frustrating to use but my personal favorite is the mirored Van der Hul alignment gauge,(more and finer lines than the turntablebasics).A stylus must be looked at under a microscope to find wear and damage.An old stylus with few hours on it may also not sound great.You are probably OK anyhow and Jico is always an option.

Ok. I guess I'll stick with things the way they are right now, I'd prefer not to buy the alignment tool if I can manage with the printout for now since I'm on a budget.

With respect to dealing with vibrations, none of my furniture is particularly secure (Ikea stuff mostly) and I move furniture around too frequently to choose a single spot to install a shelf. I noticed in this thread that memepool mentions the Ikea Lack. There seems to be several variations but this is the one I was looking at and it really doesn't look all that sturdy. He also goes on to mention a marble slab but I have no idea where I'd obtain something like that.

 

[Ingo]

I've just finished setting up my turntable with a new Grado Black and my new TC-750LC phono-pre. It was a mild chore and there were some mild setbacks but overall it wasn't too bad for a complete newbie like myself. I was really worried that I was going to ruin the stylus when I was trying to align the cartridge with my printed-out 2pt. baerwald protractor from vinylengine.com, but it seems that I escaped the danger.

I only had one major setback. The new headshell I purchased at Guitar Center (the stanton one above) for $10. After I got the cartridge set up on that headshell I played a record and realized that the cuing lever wouldn't pick the arm up high enough to take it off the record. This is a major problem since my TT has an auto-return. The original headshell has a longer rise than the Stanton. I am wondering if there is an adjustment on the cuing bar thing. Anyhow, after I realized this I pulled the cart. and headshell leads off of the Stanton and mounted them on the original headshell. Everything went smooth from there on out.

I don't know which upgrade had a bigger impact on the sound because I never got to compare and contrast. The major thing I noticed right away was the reduced sibiliance. I haven't noticed a reduction in the clicks and pops, however. After I get some record cleaning stuff I'm sure that will improve. Overall, I'm really happy with everything so far. The tonearm on my deck doesn't seem to be the greatest after some examination. There is a very slight amount of play in both planes but for right now it will have to do.

 

[feifan]

I picked up an inexpensive Audio-Techinca for about $150 -- don't remember exact price -- at Circuit City. Might've been less. Later, I bought a Sansui FR-D3 off a Craigslist for almost nothing. Both worked great, but I tend to use the Sansui. The plastic hood is badly scratched, and the lettering on the eroding aluminum control panel is gradually fading, but the functioning parts are excellent. Re the quality of vinyl records: I get mine from the local thrift store, and they're often pretty badly scratched and almost always dirty. But for 99 cents apiece, they're worth the risk. The saving grace is the Audio Clean-up in Creative player, which removes most of the clicks and pops as well as hiss. I clean the surfaces, first, though, with CleanDr wipes. The wipes aren't meant for vinyls, but they seem to work fine, and once I've recorded the album, I archive the vinyls and don't run them again unless I have to.

 

[Ingo]

Quote:

Originally Posted by feifan /img/forum/go_quote.gif I picked up an inexpensive Audio-Techinca for about $150 -- don't remember exact price -- at Circuit City. Might've been less. Later, I bought a Sansui FR-D3 off a Craigslist for almost nothing. Both worked great, but I tend to use the Sansui. The plastic hood is badly scratched, and the lettering on the eroding aluminum control panel is gradually fading, but the functioning parts are excellent. Re the quality of vinyl records: I get mine from the local thrift store, and they're often pretty badly scratched and almost always dirty. But for 99 cents apiece, they're worth the risk. The saving grace is the Audio Clean-up in Creative player, which removes most of the clicks and pops as well as hiss. I clean the surfaces, first, though, with CleanDr wipes. The wipes aren't meant for vinyls, but they seem to work fine, and once I've recorded the album, I archive the vinyls and don't run them again unless I have to.

I can see why folks like yourself do, but I don't think I'll every be interested in transferring my records to digital. One of the biggest intrigues that vinyl held for me was the fact that you have to interact with the music a lot more. On my digital setup, I just set up 10 albums to play in a row and forget about it. With my TT, I have to be there paying attention so that I can flip the record over or put on a new one. That may get old someday, but for right now I'm extremely satisfied with the experience of playing a record the old fashioned way.

 

[feifan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ingo /img/forum/go_quote.gif I can see why folks like yourself do, but I don't think I'll every be interested in transferring my records to digital. One of the biggest intrigues that vinyl held for me was the fact that you have to interact with the music a lot more. On my digital setup, I just set up 10 albums to play in a row and forget about it. With my TT, I have to be there paying attention so that I can flip the record over or put on a new one. That may get old someday, but for right now I'm extremely satisfied with the experience of playing a record the old fashioned way.

Hey, I understand the feeling. I have a Sansui TU-717 tuner that I still like to listen to even tho I get better reception via my subscription to Live365. There's something about hands on, turning the heavy dial to tune in to local stations. But I'm getting lazier by the day, and I've already given up my 4-speed manual transmission pickup for an automatic SUV. Question: Does the music directly off the vinyl sound better than ripped digital tracks?

 

[memepool]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anthrox /img/forum/go_quote.gif With respect to dealing with vibrations, none of my furniture is particularly secure (Ikea stuff mostly) and I move furniture around too frequently to choose a single spot to install a shelf...

The main question is what are your floors made of? if they are concrete or any similar solid surface then putting the deck on a floor stand or furniture is fine, but if you have suspended wooden floorboards or similar, then it's more tricky.

Those Lack tables are good for suspended subchassis tables like Thorens on a decent floor, but the Technics are really designed for a solid base and so if you have floorboards, a wall shelf is by far the best option.

Otherwise not only will the turntable skip if you walk around but you'll loose a lot of detail and especially bass frequencies because the deck will constantly pick up vibrations from the room.

There are special Hi-Fi wall shelves like this http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=APOWT1B which when mounted on a solid wall (not an MDF partition wall) are really the best platform for a turntable.

If you don't want to spend that kind of money any decent shelf will do. Ikea have good quality shelf brackets like the Sivert and you can make a shelf from a large chopping board like http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/store...roductId=10269

Check out your local kitchen stores for marble chopping boards, which are also a good sonically dead surface which you can mount on sorbothane feet http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BSISO to make your own isolation platform.

 

[Anthrox]

So if I have suspended wooden floors then a shelf is the only choice? Is the sorbothan feet + marble chopping board combo meant to be onto of the shelf or would I be able to do that on top of a table like the lack even on suspended wooden floors?

 

[luvdunhill]

in my opinion, the only way to go is a wall shelf, irregardless of your flooring situation. I have compared my turntable to the next one up the chain from the same vendor, and in my case I had a wall rack... it was almost impossible to distinguish between the two.

I'm actually thinking about buying a few more wall racks, as they were also a huge upgrade for my tube amps.

 

[memepool]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anthrox /img/forum/go_quote.gif So if I have suspended wooden floors then a shelf is the only choice? Is the sorbothan feet + marble chopping board combo meant to be onto of the shelf or would I be able to do that on top of a table like the lack even on suspended wooden floors?

With a table like the Technics or most modern tables for that matter a shelf is by far the best choice.

Put it like this you'll get better results putting the table on a wall shelf with a fairly modest cart than you will on a suspended wooden floor with a much more expensive cart.

This is because the turntable and arm simply won't be able to control a more expensive cart properly unless they themselves are on a surface isolated from external vibration. So you won't hear the improvements the better transducer can make.

Vinyl replay is all about vibrations. Turntables need to be able to pick up the vibrations etched into the record while ignoring the vibrations coming from everything else in their environment. So isolation is fundamental to the whole enterprise.

If I were you I'd probably sell the boxed Shure V15 IV stylus you got on ebay in order to buy that Apollo shelf since people pay crazy money for those original stylii and you can always get a better JICO replacement at a later date.

A shelf can make that big a difference.

If you can't do a shelf then putting a concrete paving slab under whatever you put the table on and putting it on as heavy a piece of furniture as possible will be the best option.

The marble and sorbothane isolation surface is in addition to either a home-made shelf or to put under the turntable in the absence of a wall shelf. It will help in these cases but it's not anywhere near as effective as a wall shelf on it's own.

The Apollo wall shelf consists of a piece of mdf mounted on upturned spikes bolted to a tubular steel frame so this doesn't really need any extra isolation.Although some people do fill them with sand to add even more mass and dull ringing you get from the steel but that makes them very heavy so you need solid walls and 6 " screws to support the weight!

 

[Anthrox]

If the JICO is better why would people pay more for the original stylus?

I guess I'll have to do the shelf then. I understood the whole bit about vibration but I was trying to avoid a shelf if possible because like I stated earlier I have a tendency to shuffle all the furniture in my room. Does audio advisor ship to Canada? For some reason you can choose a country for estimating the shipping but from the looks of their FAQ it's US only.

Has anyone test Target vs Apollo wall mounts? It seems I can get a double shelf from Target for the same price as the Apollo single shelf although I'm not sure what I would do with the second shelf anyways.

Out of curiousity, wouldn't the wires that connect the turntable output to the amp physically transmit any vibrations via the non-isolated amp? Or am I just being silly now?