[ralphp@optonline]

Quote:

Originally Posted by memepool /img/forum/go_quote.gif sorry I'm not trying to confuse matters it's probably just that you have different names for the same things in the USA. I am not sure I know what you mean by studs? are you referring to the plastic things you stick in a wall after drilling holes in it? In the UK we call thes Rawl plugs (which is probably derived from a brand name come to think of it). Anyway If you can support 260Ibs on a shelf chances are it's on a solid brick or stone wall and not a partition.

memepool,

Since a picture is often worth a thousand words perhaps this will help:

In the picture above the "studs" are the evenly spaced vertical wood members. The drywall (also known as sheetrock) is attached to both sides of the studs to make a finished wall. Since in the US the standard spacing for wall studs is 16" on center (although the spacing can sometimes be as much as 24") it is very simple to design a wall shelf so that the spacing of the shelf support brackets is also 16" on center, thus assuring that both brackets can be attached to the studs within the wall. And yes mounting a shelf to a wall by attaching the shelf support brackets to the studs makes for a very stable and secure shelf.

I hope this helps to clear things up.

 

[memepool]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ralphp@optonline /img/forum/go_quote.gif Since in the US the standard spacing for wall studs is 16" on center (although the spacing can sometimes be as much as 24") it is very simple to design a wall shelf so that the spacing of the shelf support brackets is also 16" on center, thus assuring that both brackets can be attached to the studs within the wall. And yes mounting a shelf to a wall by attaching the shelf support brackets to the studs makes for a very stable and secure shelf.

ok that's what I'd call a partition wall. The only issue then is whether these Apollo and Target shelves have had holes drilled specifically for the US market since in the UK most houses are built of brick so the spacing is less crucial. Too cold here for wooden houses

You may find it necessary to redrill the mounting holes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MontanaJustin Shure 75EC cartridge Original? (read - old and dirty) needle

http://www.export-japan.com/marketin...sort=2a&page=3

You can get a whole range of replacement stylii of different dimensions and quality for this classic '70s cart here. The best is the SAS which is an updated version of the Shure micro ridge stylus which you only usually found on their top of the range V15 carts. This will have the added benefit of tracing parts of the groove wall which will never have been touched and therefore are less likely to be damaged.

Those old Dual decks can be very good. You'll be stunned at whats hidden away in those grooves.

 

[ralphp@optonline]

Quote:

Originally Posted by memepool /img/forum/go_quote.gif ok that's what I'd call a partition wall. The only issue then is whether these Apollo and Target shelves have had holes drilled specifically for the US market since in the UK most houses are built of brick so the spacing is less crucial. Too cold here for wooden houses You may find it necessary to redrill the mounting holes.

It should be noted that mounting to wall studs only makes sense if the wall in question has wooden studs and not studs made from sheetmetal.

Picture of a metal stud wall:

To put it quite mildly: As far as being useful for mounting anything on the wall - metal studs s*ck!!

 

[memepool]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ralphp@optonline /img/forum/go_quote.gif To put it quite mildly: As far as being useful for mounting anything on the wall - metal studs s*ck!!

Partition walls are pretty sucky period from an audio perspective unless you've had them specially treated. They work like a big sounding board in any room with loudspeakers. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_transmission_class

 

[Anthrox]

Quote:

Originally Posted by memepool /img/forum/go_quote.gif ok that's what I'd call a partition wall. The only issue then is whether these Apollo and Target shelves have had holes drilled specifically for the US market since in the UK most houses are built of brick so the spacing is less crucial. Too cold here for wooden houses You may find it necessary to redrill the mounting holes.

Uh oh. I think that throws a wrench in my plans. I can't seem to find the actual dimensions for where the screws are on said shelves but it seems their placement is fairly arbitrary and unlikely to just happen to match up with the studs.

Anyone who's handy with wood have any good DIY tips? I can handle electronics, but not so much wood and metal. Or maybe a good, straightforward site I could follow.

 

[MontanaJustin]

Quote:

Originally Posted by memepool /img/forum/go_quote.gif ok that's what I'd call a partition wall. The only issue then is whether these Apollo and Target shelves have had holes drilled specifically for the US market since in the UK most houses are built of brick so the spacing is less crucial. Too cold here for wooden houses You may find it necessary to redrill the mounting holes. http://www.export-japan.com/marketin...sort=2a&page=3 You can get a whole range of replacement stylii of different dimensions and quality for this classic '70s cart here. The best is the SAS which is an updated version of the Shure micro ridge stylus which you only usually found on their top of the range V15 carts. This will have the added benefit of tracing parts of the groove wall which will never have been touched and therefore are less likely to be damaged. Those old Dual decks can be very good. You'll be stunned at whats hidden away in those grooves.

Memepool - thanks for the link to the stylus replacements, I'll definitely check it out. Just wanted to add that in looking for a Phono amp, I'm leaning towards this unless somebody thinks something else would be vastly better for a similar price:

TCC TC-750 Phono Preamp for $49.50 including shipping...

 

[memepool]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anthrox /img/forum/go_quote.gif Uh oh. I think that throws a wrench in my plans. I can't seem to find the actual dimensions for where the screws are on said shelves but it seems their placement is fairly arbitrary and unlikely to just happen to match up with the studs. Anyone who's handy with wood have any good DIY tips? I can handle electronics, but not so much wood and metal. Or maybe a good, straightforward site I could follow.

I guess the simplist solution if you need to mount it to a partition wall would be to attach the turntable shelf to a sturdy wooden slat of suitable dimensions and then fix the whole thing to the studs.

 

[Anthrox]

Quote:

Originally Posted by memepool /img/forum/go_quote.gif I guess the simplist solution if you need to mount it to a partition wall would be to attach the turntable shelf to a sturdy wooden slat of suitable dimensions and then fix the whole thing to the studs.

So pretty much if I found a suitable sized piece of heavy wood, and two (three? but i guess a third wouldnt have a stud to be mounted to) braces with high weight tolerance ratings under it, mounted into the studs I should be good to go?

 

[memepool]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anthrox /img/forum/go_quote.gif So pretty much if I found a suitable sized piece of heavy wood, and two (three? but i guess a third wouldnt have a stud to be mounted to) braces with high weight tolerance ratings under it, mounted into the studs I should be good to go?

Don't understand the need for more braces? I'd say mount the shelf to one piece of wood which matches it's holes and then mount this to the studs.
An Ikea shelf which matches the rear dimensions of the tt shelf would suffice.

The central hole is designed for levelling so usually you drill this first and then level off the shelf with a spirit level and mark the other two holes out so it's all straight.

 

[ralphp@optonline]

Quote:

Originally Posted by memepool /img/forum/go_quote.gif ok that's what I'd call a partition wall. The only issue then is whether these Apollo and Target shelves have had holes drilled specifically for the US market since in the UK most houses are built of brick so the spacing is less crucial. Too cold here for wooden houses You may find it necessary to redrill the mounting holes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ralphp@optonline /img/forum/go_quote.gif It should be noted that mounting to wall studs only makes sense if the wall in question has wooden studs and not studs made from sheetmetal. To put it quite mildly: As far as being useful for mounting anything on the wall - metal studs s*ck!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by memepool /img/forum/go_quote.gif Partition walls are pretty sucky period from an audio perspective unless you've had them specially treated. They work like a big sounding board in any room with loudspeakers. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_transmission_class

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anthrox /img/forum/go_quote.gif Uh oh. I think that throws a wrench in my plans. I can't seem to find the actual dimensions for where the screws are on said shelves but it seems their placement is fairly arbitrary and unlikely to just happen to match up with the studs. Anyone who's handy with wood have any good DIY tips? I can handle electronics, but not so much wood and metal. Or maybe a good, straightforward site I could follow.

Quote:

Originally Posted by memepool /img/forum/go_quote.gif I guess the simplist solution if you need to mount it to a partition wall would be to attach the turntable shelf to a sturdy wooden slat of suitable dimensions and then fix the whole thing to the studs.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anthrox /img/forum/go_quote.gif So pretty much if I found a suitable sized piece of heavy wood, and two (three? but i guess a third wouldnt have a stud to be mounted to) braces with high weight tolerance ratings under it, mounted into the studs I should be good to go?

Quote:

Originally Posted by memepool /img/forum/go_quote.gif Don't understand the need for more braces? I'd say mount the shelf to one piece of wood which matches it's holes and then mount this to the studs. An Ikea shelf which matches the rear dimensions of the tt shelf would suffice. The central hole is designed for levelling so usually you drill this first and then level off the shelf with a spirit level and mark the other two holes out so it's all straight.

Welcome to Home-Improvement-Fi: the internet's best place for all things the 21st century handyman might need!!

 

[memepool]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ralphp@optonline /img/forum/go_quote.gif Welcome to Home-Improvement-Fi: the internet's best place for all things the 21st century handyman might need!!

Yeah it's starting to sound like a DIY forum

but I guess room acoustics are a pretty underated subject in Hi-Fi. They can make or break any system and even if you listen with headphones most of the time equipment supports make a big difference. Never more so than with turntables.

 

[Anthrox]

Quote:

Originally Posted by memepool /img/forum/go_quote.gif Don't understand the need for more braces? I'd say mount the shelf to one piece of wood which matches it's holes and then mount this to the studs. An Ikea shelf which matches the rear dimensions of the tt shelf would suffice. The central hole is designed for levelling so usually you drill this first and then level off the shelf with a spirit level and mark the other two holes out so it's all straight.

Well, my terminology is not up to par so I may be making this more confusing. Are you suggesting I get an Apollo/Target shelf then mount that onto a piece of wood which is properly anchored to the studs in the wall?

I thought we were talking about a DIY shelf alternative at this point. I just reread what you wrote and now realized that I initially misread your comment. Oops. I guess that would work. The only problem I could forsee with that is how it would look aesthetically

Quote:

Originally Posted by ralphp@optonline /img/forum/go_quote.gif Welcome to Home-Improvement-Fi: the internet's best place for all things the 21st century handyman might need!!

Haha, indeed.

 

[memepool]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anthrox /img/forum/go_quote.gif Well, my terminology is not up to par so I may be making this more confusing. Are you suggesting I get an Apollo/Target shelf then mount that onto a piece of wood which is properly anchored to the studs in the wall? I thought we were talking about a DIY shelf alternative at this point. I just reread what you wrote and now realized that I initially misread your comment. Oops. I guess that would work. The only problem I could forsee with that is how it would look aesthetically

I was under the impression you had already ordered the shelf and were worried that the holes wouldn't match you stub widths. Fixing a bit of wood to the back of the stand in effect closing it in needn't look bad at all as you could just paint the wood to match the frame.

Not sure this workaround is necessary though. Why not just ask the shop you are ordering it from what the hole widths are. On the Apollo stand they look to be about 16" apart given that it's 18" wide.

 

[MontanaJustin]

Hah, Home-Improvement-Fi...great fun once you get the hang of it, but very intimidating until that point.

In my opinion, you can go one of two routes with shelves to mount on a wall (attaching to wooden studs, that is):

Pre-made shelf with built in braces (think IKEA shelf that looks just like a board sticking out of the wall, no visable braces underneath)

or

Board that sits on top of two wall braces (or three if you want to put in a very big shelf, or are a tad obsessive about distributing the weight over three studs instead of two).

If you go this route, find a nice board, or shelf or whatever, and two (or three) braces. Each brace should have three holes in it on the vertical part to screw into the studs, and probably two or three holes in the horizontal part to secure the shelf to the braces themselves.

For either option, you just have to first find the studs (a cheap magnetic "stud-finder" is the easiest method) and then pre-drill small holes for where your 6 (or 9) screws are going to go. Be sure at this point to get the shelf level, by using a Level(!).

Then you attach the braces to the wall (or just the screws if using a fancy pre-made IKEA shelf) and then attach the shelf to the brackets.

Sometimes it is nice to leave a small gap between the shelf and the wall, so that you can slip wires down behind the shelf.

Voila! You now have a very sturdy, hopefully nice looking shelf for your turntable. If you don't have room on that shelf for your phono-stage amp as well, a second shelf could go just below the first one to put it on (and/or other miscellaneous materials, like headphones/amps/music books/pictures/etc.)

 

[Anthrox]

Quote:

Originally Posted by memepool /img/forum/go_quote.gif I was under the impression you had already ordered the shelf and were worried that the holes wouldn't match you stub widths. Fixing a bit of wood to the back of the stand in effect closing it in needn't look bad at all as you could just paint the wood to match the frame. Not sure this workaround is necessary though. Why not just ask the shop you are ordering it from what the hole widths are. On the Apollo stand they look to be about 16" apart given that it's 18" wide.

I hadn't purchased it yet as I still don't return home until the end of the week but I had initially planned to as soon as I got home. Now I'm not so sure, I emailed them asking about the distance between the holes. If it's the right distance I'll probably buy it simply because I'm a bit adverse to setting up my own shelf. If they're not though I'll probably go ahead and make my own or try to find a local prefab alternative.

Thanks MontanaJustin, that'll come in handy should I end up not getting the apollo shelf.