[DavidA]

IIRC around $40

That a pretty good price and if it includes the drivers pictured its a hell of price.

 

[ferez]

That a pretty good price and if it includes the drivers pictured its a hell of price.

I read somewhere these are the same drivers used for Beats 3 Wireless or something, don't know if that's a good thing or a bad thing, but it can be a nice pair for a project.

 

[DavidA]

I haven't heard a Beats 3 wireless and I'm not sure if I want to either. It looks like the drivers are mounted on a plate so I'm not sure if the existing drivers can be removed from the mounting plate and also how big the chamber is within the cups which has a fairly large influence on how a driver will sound when mounted in it. If you do get it I'd love to see more detailed pictures and maybe some of the others can give you ideas on getting the best out of them.

 

[fleasbaby]

An alternative to the normal Grado builds out there: SportaPro drivers with knock-off g-gush pads:



The pads attenuate and clean up the SportaPro drivers' bass a somewhat. Overall the build is light and sounds rather satisfying. Not as technically proficient as some of the other aftermarket drivers out there, but highly enjoyable.

So I spent a day with these and favor them a lot. This pair is going to a family member as a Christmas gift, but I plan to build another pair specifically for myself. They are light, extremely comfortable, and the G-Pads do great things with the SportaPro drivers. At the risk of getting a little soft in the head, I also find the proportions between the cups, pads and headband very aesthetically pleasing for some reason...not sure why, but then again, taste is a strange thing isn't it?

I might go back to some Grado/Nhoord/Symphones drivers and using Dynamat, tune them for use with the G-Cush. I've done that for a customer before with good results.

 

[wavid]

I am really unhappy with the sound of my SennGrados housed in 325 cups. They are the worst sounding headphones I own and I find my sr60s a lot more enjoyable to listen to.
Should I try something else? Nhoord or Symphony?

 

[Makiah S]

I am really unhappy with the sound of my SennGrados housed in 325 cups. They are the worst sounding headphones I own and I find my sr60s a lot more enjoyable to listen to.
Should I try something else? Nhoord or Symphony?

Could you tell us a little bit more about what exactly are you hearing that you really find them Pleasant?

 

[wavid]

Could you tell us a little bit more about what exactly are you hearing that you really find them Pleasant?

I am not very good at explaining but the bass and low mid sound very muddy while the high mid sound very congested and low detail. The highs are really damp and lack detail , they overall lack soundstage and dynamics. I hope I have explained things clearly (like I said I'm not very good at reviewing)

Maybe there is something wrong with the drivers

 

[Makiah S]

I am not very good at explaining but the bass and low mid sound very muddy while the high mid sound very congested and low detail. The highs are really damp and lack detail , they overall lack soundstage and dynamics. I hope I have explained things clearly (like I said I'm not very good at reviewing)

Maybe there is something wrong with the drivers

Huh muddy and congested... that's how my open backs sound when I place my hands over the open part of the driver... maybe the cups are a very poor match for the drivers or as you've said! Maybe the drivers them selves are no good

 

[wavid]

Huh muddy and congested... that's how my open backs sound when I place my hands over the open part of the driver... maybe the cups are a very poor match for the drivers or as you've said! Maybe the drivers them selves are no good

Could it be that it was a bad solder joint? It was my first time.

 

[Geezer Rock 001]

Could it be that it was a bad solder joint? It was my first time.

The solder joints would be a good thing to check or re do. On my last solder job, one solder pad was gray instead of silver after it cooled. When amped up, that driver was faint and scratchy. After removing the gray solder and getting a shiny silver joint all was good.

 

[wavid]

The solder joints would be a good thing to check or re do. On my last solder job, one solder pad was gray instead of silver after it cooled. When amped up, that driver was faint and scratchy. After removing the gray solder and getting a shiny silver joint all was good.

I also noticed my soldering iron is 30w which is quite hot? Do you think I could have overheated it? Or would that be obvious (as in, not working at all).
I am going to give it another go.
I really think I must have done something wrong because they are by far my worst pair of headphones.

BTW, I think the solder pad is a bit grey/matte so maybe I did a bad job with the solder.

I should practice more.

 

[Geezer Rock 001]

I am rather new at it as well. A soldering gun seems to work best for me as two smaller irons took too long to get to end hold the melting temp.

I was coached before I did the first one, to not apply too much prolonged heat to the driver solder pad as it could get the driver too hot. The other tip was to let the first joint and the driver to sit for several minutes to allow the driver plate to cook before you solder the 2nd wire on.

If you got a solder pump with your iron kit, get your iron hot enough to melt solder before you touch the solder joint you want to redo. As soon as it melts, pull the iron off and put the solder sucker on it and flip the latch. That should pull the old gray solder off. When I did it, I cut the wire and stripped it back to re tin it and get fresh wire. Tin your tip and have at it when the top is hot.

Hopefully that will fix it for you. A good way for me to test my solder joints is to find a good quality mono song to listen too. If it is coming out of the middle of your head, you have good signals to both cups. If it is scratchy or weak in one or both sides, your connection needs to be re done.

All imo and from a newbie.

 

[Niqeres]

Hello, i've been looking to swap out the drivers on my sr80's but im having difficulty removing the drivers from its housing. I've tried sticking an x-acto knife in the tiny gap between the driver and its housing to slice the glue off, but after a couple hours of work, it's apparently going nowhere. Are there other alternative methods that does not involve breaking the housings?

 

[7keys]

There is a way where you cut a piece of wood the same size as the driver and you push it through the housing.
Fleasebaby has all these mods in a thread somewhere.

 

[ricvic321]

I’ve only done it once (x2 drivers) and it’s been a while...but I think I used a carefully placed few drops of high octane rubbing alcohol to dissolve the glue and then the driver slid free. Again, I may misremember.