SR60-Mod part II
Nov 21, 2011 at 5:58 AM Post #2,717 of 3,353
Hi
Just put together my woodied MS1i. Cocobolo from Marty, Cable from Chris_Himself.
 
A few Photos (sorry about the camera phone!)
 
They sound really, really good. But im not sure if the highs have been 'ever so slightly' tamed?! Seem to have lost a tiny bit of that grado sparkle?!
 
James
 
Nov 21, 2011 at 3:48 PM Post #2,719 of 3,353
 
This may sound like a noobish question, but I was wondering how one would go about soldering a teflon coated wire since teflon has such a high melting point. Are cables just provided with exposed silver (or copper) at the ends or does one have to sand the teflon off the wire?
 
Nov 21, 2011 at 4:40 PM Post #2,720 of 3,353
You remove the teflon sheathing first with a wire stripper.
Basically it is a cutter / plier designed for this purpose.
Strip it back to the length required, usually about an eigth of an inch.
 
You then "tin" (pre-prep with solder) the now bare wire-end(s) with the soldering iron
before actually soldering it to the circuit or driver solder / connection pad.
 
Run a google search for wire soldering techniques (or preparation & procedures)
There is a ton of info about this topic on them interwebz.
 

 
Nov 21, 2011 at 4:53 PM Post #2,721 of 3,353


Quote:
Awesome looking cans! <<2 thumbzup>>
 
My MCA Coco MS1i still have their sparkle and then some.
No mods to the drivers, stock cables.



Thanks!
smily_headphones1.gif

(Just wish i had a decent camera as the grain/colour looks even better when sat in front of you!)
 
No driver mods for me. Just Coco Cups and Silver cable.
 
I took them apart again this afternoon and noticed a cold solder joint on the left driver. (looked alright this morning, but had just finished a 12hour night shift!
rolleyes.gif
)
Anyway, resoldered the joint and it now sounds much clearer & sparkly at the top end!
 
Very happy with these cans!
 
I scored a great condition Marantz Model 1090 from ebay the other day for £40. Should be delivered tomorrow! Can't wait to try it out as a head amp!
 
James
 
Nov 21, 2011 at 5:00 PM Post #2,722 of 3,353


Quote:
You remove the teflon sheathing first with a wire stripper.
Basically it is a cutter / plier designed for this purpose.
Strip it back to the length required, usually about an eigth of an inch.
 
You then "tin" (pre-prep with solder) the now bare wire-end(s) with the soldering iron
before actually soldering it to the circuit or driver solder / connection pad.
 
Run a google search for wire soldering techniques (or preparation & procedures)
There is a ton of info about this topic on them interwebz.
 

Okay cool. I just wasn't sure if teflon leaned more towards the "rubber" or "enamel" side of things as far as insulative coatings went. Good to know I can just strip the wire like normal. Thanks.
 
 
 
Nov 21, 2011 at 5:32 PM Post #2,723 of 3,353
Teflon is much more slippery than rubber and most plastics, so a bit harder to strip - especially on small wire guages.
I hear ya on the enamel thing. I used to use sandpaper as well, and there are also chemical strippers, akin to paint remover.
I would not recommend that in this case. Just need to develop the correct technique with cutting / pulling the teflon without
destroying the copper strands in the process.
 
Nov 21, 2011 at 10:57 PM Post #2,725 of 3,353
I imagine that you could use them.
Others have done similar mods using other headphone bits.
That cable would be a bit of work though, but it could be done.
That cable has a single entry point. Grados use a double entry cable.
If it were me, I would ditch the coiled cable and fashion a custom cable out of high quality materials.
 
Those oldies look like they may have some collector value.
Have you checked ebay to see what they might fetch?
 
 
Nov 22, 2011 at 1:09 AM Post #2,727 of 3,353
Sure - you can run single entry to the grado drivers. I modded my 225i's to single entry, running my own wires across (balanced too). No reason to maintain double entry unless you want it.
 
Nov 22, 2011 at 2:02 AM Post #2,730 of 3,353
I believe the SR60 has 4 wires as well. I know the 225 and 325 (and maybe 125) have 8 wires (2+ and 2- going to each driver). 
 
4 wires is superior to 3 (commonly use) because it allows for easy balanced wiring by replacing the TRS with an appropriate connector (4 pin XLR, for instance). There may be some other minor sonic benefits to using 4 conductors over 3 - less crosstalk, or added capacitance. 
 

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