[Nightslayer]

Brook, I think you missed out removing the screen/buttons, which I feel improves airflow and increases the "open-ness" of the sound. But other than that, that's quite a comprehensive list you have there.

 

[Brooko]

Quote:

Brook, I think you missed out removing the screen/buttons, which I feel improves airflow and increases the "open-ness" of the sound. But other than that, that's quite a comprehensive list you have there.

 
Thanks - forgot about the buttons  - I guess mainly because the Alessandros didn't have them.  Definitely one to add.

 

[Deathdeisel]

Im thinking i really prefer the weaved style mesh, seems to look more retro, and not as aggressive as the others. So i may try bowls if she says they are uncomfortable. So final verdict, should i open the vent holes or no? Seems like mixed responses on that.

 

[Brooko]

Quote:

Im thinking i really prefer the weaved style mesh, seems to look more retro, and not as aggressive as the others. So i may try bowls if she says they are uncomfortable. So final verdict, should i open the vent holes or no? Seems like mixed responses on that.

If you intend woodying them - don't open the vents.  If you don't (ie if you are going to leave the cups and base as stock plastic), then opening vents will give you a little more bass.  If you do vent, start with no more than two holes in each cup, and work your way up as needed.  It also pays to vent evenly (ie space the holes symmetrically).
 
Ultimately it's your call.

 

[Deathdeisel]

I highly doubt ill ever woody them. I know for certain i wont in the upcoming 6 months. I may do it waay later as a gift, but its unlikely. So looks like ill be doing these mods:
 

1. Open Vents
2. Replace Mesh with weaved wire mesh
3. Quarter Mod Comfies
4. Replace headband, and possible bend it afterwards
5. Possibly color letters. 

 
Anyone got any pictures of colored letters on the grados? 

 

[danielfrisbee]

hi guys
I've been reading bits and bobs from this and other grado threads. I'm new to these headphones. I got the ms1's as they seemed to win the most support at the budget end and cost £67 to the uk which was also my cheapest option.
 
My dull question is: (and I ask having looked for answers but feel a more tailored answer might help)...
 
I'm finding them a bit uncomfortable. The top and back of my ears feel slightly like they are burning, and after a week of wearing them for hours a day, they still bite though certainly less. My head is quite small and thin if that has a bearing on the answer,=..
 
Do I go for the yellow sennheiser pads? Or does my specific ear pain suggest another option?
Has anyone tried making their own pads from other kinds of foam?
 
As a designer/maker I'm enjoying seeing how people are messing with these phones, and can imagine trying that at some point.
I love turning aluminium so maybe I could start there...
 
anyway, thanks for any suggestions.

 

[Mozu]

Bend the headband a bit, get some Senn pads. You can find pre-dyed/modded ones on eBay if you hate the yellow.

I have glasses and wear my MS1s anywhere from 2-6 hours a day with zero comfort issues.

 

[danielfrisbee]

ok cool
 
wasn't sure if the sen pads solved that burning/squished feeling or something else.
I'll order some. (and dig the yellow- though have some purple dye so I guess I could do that- and they'd become somewhere between brown and orange I would guess)
 
thanks mozu

 

[Mozu]

Man, if you can machine aluminum, and found a way to make aftermarket blocks (the L/R plastic things that hold the rods) you could probably make a killing.

 

[KneelJung]

Quote:

Quote:

Im thinking i really prefer the weaved style mesh, seems to look more retro, and not as aggressive as the others. So i may try bowls if she says they are uncomfortable. So final verdict, should i open the vent holes or no? Seems like mixed responses on that.
 

If you intend woodying them - don't open the vents.  If you don't (ie if you are going to leave the cups and base as stock plastic), then opening vents will give you a little more bass.  If you do vent, start with no more than two holes in each cup, and work your way up as needed.  It also pays to vent evenly (ie space the holes symmetrically).
 
Ultimately it's your call.

I'm with Brooko, start slow. A lot of people found 4 to be a good number. It's a reversible mod though. Yoiu can cut out a piece of muslin and glue it over the holes. I need to do it to my 225's that I just switched out with the cups my 60's were in. So hopefully I can put up some pics of what I'm talking about 
 
@ danielfrisbee...bend your headband. With your forefingers on the top of the headband and your thumbs underneath just bend your headband a littlle. You can also tweak the ends a bit. Just keep tweaking till you get it how you want it.
 

 

[LJLee]

Have some sr80i's. Replaced the comfies with bowls and absolutely love them . What kind of sound does replacing that back grill give you? And how do you go about it. I know its been covered as ive seen it in this thread, but there is just so much to sift through.  

 

[KneelJung]

Gives them a more of an open sound, let's more air in, reduces some of the plastickiness.

 

[wje]

Quote:

Have some sr80i's. Replaced the comfies with bowls and absolutely love them . What kind of sound does replacing that back grill give you? And how do you go about it. I know its been covered as ive seen it in this thread, but there is just so much to sift through.  

KneelJung has described how the sound is allowed to flow through swapping out the built-in plastic grill with a more open metal mesh.  However, as you've also asked, how does one go about it?  Well, with the lower level SR series cups, the plastic grid is molded in at the time the cups are made.  Usually, the best approach would be to separate the cups away from the headphones.  Then, taking the cups, use a small tool like a Dremel to work around the inside perimeter if the cup to clean out the plastic mesh and finish up the edges, so any plastic nubs are taken care of.  once that has been completed, you can then cut the mesh of your choosing to fit from the inside of the cups.  In the past, I've used Elmer's glue for bonding mesh to my wooden cups.  However, since you have the plastic cups you can use some form of craft glue - like a clear gel to get the mesh bonded to the plastic.  You don't want to use a glue that would dry anything but clear, so the work will look neat if anyone looks in through the mesh from the outside.
 

 

[Blue Boat]

Anything more than 1 hole in each driver noticeably reduces that edge on electric guitars. 
I poked two on each, decided that it sounded a little too dull, closed one up, and got a hybrid tube amp.
I also replaced the stock grills to improve airflow in/out of the cups. This supposedly makes them less honky.
 
SR60 + LD2 sounds good, but I gave my Grados to my younger brother so now I'm using my tube amp with
my already warm Sennheiser. Still sounds great though. I'm in the process of looking for IEMs that sound bright
and can do rock/metal as well as my SR60. 

 

[jinteddy7]

Quote:

Anything more than 1 hole in each driver noticeably reduces that edge on electric guitars. 
I poked two on each, decided that it sounded a little too dull, closed one up, and got a hybrid tube amp.
I also replaced the stock grills to improve airflow in/out of the cups. This supposedly makes them less honky.
 
SR60 + LD2 sounds good, but I gave my Grados to my younger brother so now I'm using my tube amp with
my already warm Sennheiser. Still sounds great though. I'm in the process of looking for IEMs that sound bright
and can do rock/metal as well as my SR60. 

I agree with you, i did punch two holes on each driver then the vocals weren't as crisp as before. got dissapointed then closed one hole. Still not quite there, bass was definitely better than stock but the rest was just not as detailed (had another pair of stock grados to compare) ended up closing all the holes back.