[x3Luffy]

@koolkat no offence taken
 
and thanks for all of your opinions
 
What do you think of jumbo pads? I'm thinking of getting metal/ woodie mod from Jaben and heard they come with jumbo pads.

 

[wje]

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What do you think of jumbo pads? I'm thinking of getting metal/ woodie mod from Jaben and heard they come with jumbo pads.

I think you're getting to the point of over-investing in your pair of SR60 headphones.  Buy the Sennheiser HD-414 pads, open up one side of the foam with the quarter mod and then use them.  Also, Brian's advice on the best upgrade is just plugging the headphones into a source and using / listening to them is excellent advice.
 
I think you're suffering from "analysis paralysis" by looking at so my options and areas where you could take the SR-60 headphones.  However, if you have an $80 pair of headphones with $250 in upgrades, what does that give you?  You can find headphones that have already been modified here in the F.S. section for less than the cost of your SR-60 headphones + your desired upgrades would cost.
 
 

 

[chrislangley4253]

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I picked up my *free* industrial machine this evening.  It's a 1927 Singer 31-15.  It fired right up and the GE motor is ready to roll.  There's some videos on YouTube of this machine sewing garment weight leather - and even 3-5 oz. tool leather.  Though, it's not designed to sew that heavy of leather.  I'm going to restore this beast before I use it myself.  Ironically, it appeared on Craigslist as a free item.  I responded to the people who posted it and I offered to make a donation to their favorite charity.  They thought my response was the best one, so I was called and given the opportunity to pick it up.  The machine I'm going to use while I restore the Singer and the Pfaff for the leather work I need / want to do is a Brother machine made in Japan.  I'm going to buy it tomorrow before tropical storm Irene hits my area.
 
Then, I hope to be cooking again on some headbands.  I sold off my 3 other non-industrial machines over the past week, since they were not really capable of doing what I needed them to do.
 
Now, for some "on-topic" comments.  I'm in love with the sound of the TTVJ "Flats" ear pads.  The really produce some good bass.   The bass appears to be genuine and not to the point of being overwhelming to my ears.  At $35.00, I'd really just buy a pair of these pads before opening up the cups on the backs of the drivers on a pair of Grados and punching some of the holes open.  Yes, the bass is that good.  When you open the holes on the rear of the drivers, you face the possibility of changing the mid and upper frequencies to some degree, also.  With the pads, you can control the sound.  If the "flats" are too much for you, you can sell them.  Slightly behind the TTVJ "Flats" are the Sennheiser HD-414 pads with the quarter mod performed.  In fact, I'm starting to like the Senns pads more than the bowl pads from Grado.  That's my latest observations.  I'm sorry if I may have posted something similar to this effect a few days ago.  I guess I'm just getting too sleepy and need some rest. 
 
G'night.

**** it Wayne, you are making me want both sets of pads back... Even though I know I don't like either. lol 
 


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Are you sure that the headband might not be causing some of your issues, too?  The headband can be a bit tight on some people.  Usually, taking your hands and slowly spreading open the band so it isn't as tight resolves the issue.  Work slowly - just small movements. You might have to do it a few times to get the right level of comfort for your head.  Different pads will change the feel a bit - but, if that band is too tight for your head, it's hard to just use different pads to handle that issue when the metal needs to be adjusted.
 

+1, ADJUST YOUR HEADBANDS PEOPLE
 


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Ok thanks will take note
Btw, is it possible for me to change the cable because the thick cables are bothering me a bit >< what other mods do you guys recommend? Thanks!

I'd recommend you leave your cable alone... I found my troublesome for a while, I replaced it with one even more troublesome and went back to stock. After a bit of time you'll get used to having the cable around.. I know it's not ideal, but it is my suggestion. 


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Whoo. So busy. Getting ready to move back to UCLA. Gotta go train dem RA noobs. Anyway, looks like I missed more pad discussions and some new posters...I'm seriously starting to consider making a pair of sockos for us to send around the thread. I absolutely love the bass and it's texture and I feel like people are missing out for real...

Also, I've been in the process of gathering info to build my own cmoybb 2.03. Exciting stuff in the future

. I'm hoping to get that step-by-step recupping guide up when I move back in. We'll see...

Anyway...it's nice to see the thread is still healthy and active

Kojaku

I'd pay for shipping. Maybe even for the full pair of sockos if I really liked em and you would let me. 

 
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I don't use them on the go but sure use them outside home like in the library (but I would have to find a nice corner). 
Btw trying to see if my local shop offers modding for a fee because I'm not confident doing them myself and also I'm buying pads tomorrow, so should I pick up the one for HD414? Because there seems to be a lot other people using other pads from what I've read. Thanks a lot!

I'd try both. The HD414's can be had for 5 dollars, the bowls for about 20. Keep in mind that you need to mod the hd414 pads by cutting a hole in them and reversing them. 
 
 


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Aye, don't get me wrong maybe I came off a little rude there.
 
It's easy to feel like you've got an inferior pair of headphones when everyone around you is talking about high end stuff. 
 
So take it easy and enjoy your headphones.
 
 
I haven't tried the L-Cush/bowls but if they're made of the same material as the stock pad, then imo, they're not comfortable.
 
The HD414 pads are softer. I think you should get the HD414 pads and quarter mod them.

I think the bowls are pretty comfortable, because they sit on my ears just right. The HD414's are softer, and they sound different because of it. 
 


Quote:

@koolkat no offence taken
 
and thanks for all of your opinions
 
What do you think of jumbo pads? I'm thinking of getting metal/ woodie mod from Jaben and heard they come with jumbo pads.

I have a pair of jumbos.. they have gotten approx 10 minutes on my 225i's. They add a good deal of brightness that the 225i's doesn't need. They also open up the soundstage and make the headphones seem even more airy, which is great.
 
Actually, I just put them on my bloodwood 225i's.. and they do good things, outrageously comfortable (and dorky looking). I'm going to leave them on for a while. They seem to play well with some music, and not as well for others. Cymbals really do sound too bright though, which is a combo between them being 225i's in the first place and the Jumbos. 
 
I'd recommend that anyone with an allessandro try the jumbos, they also sound pretty good on the sr80i's. If anyone wants a pair, I have this like new pair sitting in my headphone drawer with.. 15 minutes of headtime now

 

[Vikingatheart]

Awesome tutorial! I have one question though. How do you get the metal band to stay inside the plastic block when the glue bond was broken?
 

 

[sharkz]

The metal band can be glued back in the rod block if necessary. I never had to. After I broke the glue's bond, there is enough of a friction fit that I could just jam the band back in with no problems at all.

 

[Vikingatheart]

Awesome. Thanks.

 

[MoSXS]

Just wanted to say I have the original SR60. I finally did the quarter mod and I pulled out the little white vinyl cover. It's freakin amazing how much better these things sound now. It doesn't sound like I'm listening to music through a pillow any more! heh. They still sound like they need to be opened up just a bit more though. But no words can describe just how much better they sound now. 

 

[wje]

Very good documentation on replacing the headband.  Thanks.

 

[Chris_Himself]

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I only just bought SR60 for a few days! Did I make the wrong purchase?
 

Nope, I just am curious of the higher end models and how they sound and feel on my head. Any Grado you buy is a great purchase regardless of reasoning and intentions. I'm curious as to what a different Grado sounds like just like you're curious how your Grado can sound different. It's more of the same haha, I'm just taking the more expensive route to do it.
 
I'm also lucky that I have unlimited access to silver wire but I'm sure things would be different if the shoe were on the other foot.
 
You'd be surprised how a 2-hole SR-60 with a recable sounds vs some of the other stuff. The SR-225 still is very receptive to the same treatment though but the SR-60, just wow.
 
I say this all the time but after I pulled the trigger on 225's, I quit head-fi for like 2 years before coming back to lurk the Bilavideo thread and then eventually posting again!
 
Enjoy your Grados mate, don't worry about anything else right now
 

 

[wje]

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You'd be surprised how a 2-hole SR-60 with a recable sounds vs some of the other stuff. The SR-225 still is very receptive to the same treatment though but the SR-60, just wow.
 

Your response is essentially correct.  About a week back, I picked up a pair of used SR-80 Grados (not the "i" version).  They were about 5 years old.  I have 2 pair of modified SR-225i Grados that I use.  However, when I applied the Sennheiser HD-414 pads with the quarter mod performed, my initial impressions were astonishing.  Sure, Grado makes a number of products to suit basically anyone's budget.  However, one really has to evaluate if it's worth it to make a move that costs $300 to go to the next level for a 2% or 3% improvement.  The only real way to hear and witness this improvement is to perform appropriate A / B testing of both headphones.  However, if you stay away for the slightly sweeter sounds of the higher end models, your mind and ears will know none the better.  Your wallet will be under better protection, too.
 

 

[mlantinen]

@jinteddy7,
Thanks for the tip on the ethanol in nail polish remover.  Also, fantastic headbands and I love your photography work.  Good contributions sir.  

 

[KneelJung]

Just to reiterate what I said earlier, I culled this from You Tube. There is also tip of the hat to yellow head band guy just after the 1 min. mark 

 

[jinteddy7]

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Awesome tutorial! I have one question though. How do you get the metal band to stay inside the plastic block when the glue bond was broken?
 

Just what sharkz said .. just push the metal band back from where it came from, its super tight and it goes deep so as far as i know, most people did not even bother applying superglue to the tip of the headband before pushing it back into the block. The fit is so secure i have a pretty hard time remembering which block i separated from the begining,  must keep reminding myself its the right lol =) cheers


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The metal band can be glued back in the rod block if necessary. I never had to. After I broke the glue's bond, there is enough of a friction fit that I could just jam the band back in with no problems at all.

Same here, the fits back like a glove =)


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@jinteddy7,
Thanks for the tip on the ethanol in nail polish remover.  Also, fantastic headbands and I love your photography work.  Good contributions sir.  

thanks marty, im a big fan of your work!  =)





 
 

 

[wje]

Quote:

@jinteddy7,
Thanks for the tip on the ethanol in nail polish remover.  Also, fantastic headbands and I love your photography work.  Good contributions sir.  

I don't think the ethanol in the nail polish remover is the key ingredient.  Here in the U.S., I believe Acetone is one of the main ingredients in nail polish remover.  I have a quart of Acetone, which I used a Q-tip to dip into the container to get enough of the liquid onto the Q-Tip.  From there, I was able to get enough drops of the liquid in and around the metal part of the headband to have it soften the glue, so the metal part would easily pull out.  As a note of caution when doing this process, ensure you have a few paper towels handy and even wrap one around the "L" or the "R" plastic block when you perform the process.  If too much Acetone is used, it could run down the sides of the plastic blocks and cause a bit of issue with the paint on the blocks.

 

[jinteddy7]

Quote:

I don't think the ethanol in the nail polish remover is the key ingredient.  Here in the U.S., I believe Acetone is one of the main ingredients in nail polish remover.  I have a quart of Acetone, which I used a Q-tip to dip into the container to get enough of the liquid onto the Q-Tip.  From there, I was able to get enough drops of the liquid in and around the metal part of the headband to have it soften the glue, so the metal part would easily pull out.  As a note of caution when doing this process, ensure you have a few paper towels handy and even wrap one around the "L" or the "R" plastic block when you perform the process.  If too much Acetone is used, it could run down the sides of the plastic blocks and cause a bit of issue with the paint on the blocks.

oops ... its acetone ... got mixed up .. you're right wje ... **** must be why i failed my chem tests back at highschool =( haha