Thanks again. As we have 4 sound signatures, 3 boot modes, 2 DAC initialization modes and 16 regions, i.e. theoretically 384 combinations, I am very interested in the feedback that I can read here to get to the point and not (too) disperse me !
My recomandations are, from what I think sounds good (with my gear):
1. WM1Z with MX3 region, Plus v2 mode, DAC init 0
2. WM1Z with MX3 region, Normal mode, DAC init 0
3. Neutral with TW region, Plus v2 mode, DAC init 1 (I didn't try other combinations for Neutral yet)
4. Warm with MX3 region, Plus v2 mode, DAC init 1 (same as above, didn't try other combinations for Warm)
5. Bright with MX3, Plus v2 mode, DAC init 1 (this one sounds nice, but I'm not too much over sparkling highs like that)
My recomandations are, from what I think sounds good (with my gear):
1. WM1Z with MX3 region, Plus v2 mode, DAC init 0
2. WM1Z with MX3 region, Normal mode, DAC init 0
3. Neutral with TW region, Plus v2 mode, DAC init 1 (I didn't try other combinations for Neutral yet)
4. Warm with MX3 region, Plus v2 mode, DAC init 1 (same as above, didn't try other combinations for Warm)
5. Bright with MX3, Plus v2 mode, DAC init 1 (this one sounds nice, but I'm not too much over sparkling highs like that)
Thank you Mr. Walkman. For now, I tested NEUTRAL and WM1Z. I still have returned to the region J after testing MX3, E and TW because I always had a small preference (maybe not completely objective) for J.
I compare with the ZX300 which is in FW stock to pass from one to the other quickly. As soon as Walkman One for ZX300 will be published, I will be able to make direct compaars between different signatures of WalkmanOne.
Thanks again. As we have 4 sound signatures, 3 boot modes, 2 DAC initialization modes and 16 regions, i.e. theoretically 384 combinations, I am very interested in the feedback that I can read here to get to the point and not (too) disperse me !
9 sound signatures accounting 5 original firmwares +4 new tunnings 3 boot modes im thinking there must be a lot more than 384 taking in acount there are 17 regions now...
This is how it works. If you haven't changed the data, it's faster vs. rebuilding from scratch. I set my players to shut off after 24 hrs inactivity which I think is a good compromise, but you might want to switch it off, so no rebuilding takes place.
I have been using MrWalkman's firmware for quite a while, but there is a question i was never able to figure out the answer, not written in the FAQ either,
If i want to switch to a different tuning within the same firmware build (say, between WM1Z and Neutral tuning of Walkman One), do i need to do the complete stock revert process and reinstall Walkman One, or can i just change the setting file in the player, restart and apply the tuning i want? Thanks for the clarification.
##################################################################
#
# [SOUND SIGNATURE]
#
# Choose between 4 sound signatures.
#
# After changing the sound signature here you need to reboot the
# player first, and then to apply the corresponding external tuning.
#
# Available options are:
# 0 for Neutral - between Warm (Midnight) and Bright (Dawn)
# 1 for Warm - Midnight v2
# 2 for Bright - Dawn v2.1
# 3 for WM1Z - the WM1Z stock sound signature
#
# For example: SIG=1
# Default is [3].
Me too I really like the sig 0 or the "neutral" plus v2, and other DAC on MX3.
For the owner both 1Z and 1A cloud you make comparsion impression on Signature “WM1Z” on WM1A and "WM1Z” on WM1Z with same setting ex (plus 2v, dan 1/0) or other settings.. I'm really curious.. Because maybe if I sell my WM1Z and buy my WM1A so I will never regret... I hope someday I can try with someone here who own WM1A,
Me too I really like the sig 0 or the "neutral" plus v2, and other DAC on MX3.
For the owner both 1Z and 1A cloud you make comparsion impression on Signature “WM1Z” on WM1A and "WM1Z” on WM1Z with same setting ex (plus 2v, dan 1/0) or other settings.. I'm really curious.. Because maybe if I sell my WM1Z and buy my WM1A so I will never regret... I hope someday I can try with someone here who own WM1A,
Well, strangely I like the same firmware on both players. Though if I remember right not exactly as one the WM1A I am changing one setting from PMV2 to PMV1? So I basically use Midnight v2 (normal) in both players. I thought that maybe it would be too dark for the WM1Z, but it still is fine. A while ago I switched from the plus setting in the WM1Z to normal as normal mode just seemed not as processed. That was using (at first) Midnight before this new version of the firmware. Still doing that change was an adaptation after at first liking the plus mode in the WM1Z......just somehow after time got to hearing the Plus mode as being to reverberated? So (Normal) is the way to go in both players, and saves battery too.
As far as changing players I don’t know? Meaning I can just use the WM1A for a long time and forget about the WM1Z. Also there is a time when I feel I need to adapt my hearing to the WM1A from the WM1Z. Also the same in reverse, I need to slightly adapt my hearing going from the WM1Z to the WM1A, but I already know this phenomenon and just accept it. Within an hour both players end-up natural again. Yet when it comes down to it they are still very very different players. The WM1A has a slight upper mid forward stance. No matter what firmware is used it always seems to hold this. The WM1Z has more of a V signature, in that yes the treble is brighter as well as the bass more prominent. This thicker bass is a big part of the WM1Z signature though many firmware will slightly integrate in more. Still firmware only goes so far to change the players personalities? Meaning both players have their sound, but the big deal was before the WM1A was not really good sounding, yet now it’s great. The firmware also enhanced the WM1Z but it just added some realism and soundstage, as before the WM1Z was still highly musical.
What I thought was somehow my preconceived ideas said I may need a slightly brighter firmware to bring the WM1Z to be closer to the desired sound of the WM1A? But in reality that’s not what happened, as I just let both players have their basic intrinsic sound.
It probably has a lot to do with your IEMs or headphones too? Even cables and if you are going 4.4mm or 3.5mm would make a difference? I’m over 1700 hours on both players and primarily use 4.4mm. I go Source Direct and never EQ. I typically use the Noble Audio K-10 Encore with a ZENTOO Hansound 4 wire cable. The cable did get slightly stiff but still works and sound good.
With all that said, it is still the unique qualities of the players that has me coming back to each and appreciating what difference there is. Neither is really that much better, though the WM1A is slightly thinner sounding? If the thickness is what is of value to the WM1Z, just keep that. There is something to be said of the fuller soundstage the WM1Z has. It’s a bigger soundstage! Also as I’ve always said there is a slight realism that the WM1Z does that the WM1A can’t touch no matter what. So.....that doesn’t seem to make the WM1A less entertaining? As the guitar sound on the WM1A now is so real. Real because electric guitar is inherently in the midrange, thus more midrange more guitar. The bass on the WM1A is just slightly lacking but if you are happy with that it’s up to you. I can see how a person would only be fine using the WM1A, but still guess there would be always something just slightly missed? Maybe? Maybe not?
Stupid out of toppic question... you guys notice huge benefit in when you run your iem in balanced vs SIngle ended even when the iem arent balanced i notice a huge increase in mid power and overall a better presentation what you guys think?
What do you mean not balanced? Non-balanced means that the 3.5mm cable shares the ground and balanced offers a separate ground for each channel, if I understand this right? But there has been years of arguments over which design is better. Some feel the balanced signal path is by far more convoluted where single ended is more direct. But really in our use the 4.4mm amp is more powerful and has a slightly different sound. The balanced side is a more robust amp with wider soundstage.
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