[GeorgeA]

There’s an interesting podcast on binaural 3D Audio (gaming, music and headphones) at


The presentation is only in French, however, the company referred to (Ircam Amplify) in the podcast has an English version of its website.
https://ircamamplify.com/en/

At the YouTube page of Ircam Amplify, there’re various videos on sound experience.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCaPuYZoGFG56NzE6hqgpzOw/videos

One example: How will the future audio enrich gaming experiences?


I think that for the owners of Realiser A16 units it would be beneficial that all these approaches that have the binaural sound as a common denominator to be somehow compatible with Smyth Virtual Surround.

 

[MichaelJames99]

I doubt that Apple would make that possible, mostly because 'ease of use' is the prime directive, and the easiest thing for someone like myself, fully invested in their ecosystem, is to whip out my iPhone (or iPad with faceID) and scan myself and the HRTF instantly is in my AppleID profile for all my devices.

So a scan of someone else and transfer to some other AppleID is a lot of complex workflow and UI.

The easiest path you have is to buy a used iPad of any size, as long as it has a truedepth faceID scanner, associate it with the same AppleID as the ATV4K, and use that. Plus, if you keep it near the ATV4K, you can use it to 'type' whenever prompted by the ATV; it's truly magical when that happens on my iPhone. Plus you can use the Remote app (in the control panel) to drive the ATV as well. If you then never use the iPad, then sell it.

what would the cheapest ipad I could buy with a truedepth faceID scanner? I'm guessing it would need to support iOS16... I know nothing about iPads...

 

[JonFo]

what would the cheapest ipad I could buy with a truedepth faceID scanner? I'm guessing it would need to support iOS16... I know nothing about iPads...

Hum, looks like the iPads with that are limited to the Pro models
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT209183

iPad​

• iPad Pro 12.9-inch (4th generation)
• iPad Pro 12.9-inch (3rd generation)
• iPad Pro 11-inch (2nd generation)
• iPad Pro 11-inch

So maybe a used iPhone XR might be the cheapest, just don't activate it on the carrier and use it like an iPad, over wifi. Those are around $230 to $300, and clearly retain their value, so you might only 'lose' less than $50 if you flip it.

 

[MichaelJames99]

Hum, looks like the iPads with that are limited to the Pro models
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT209183

iPad​

• iPad Pro 12.9-inch (4th generation)
• iPad Pro 12.9-inch (3rd generation)
• iPad Pro 11-inch (2nd generation)
• iPad Pro 11-inch

So maybe a used iPhone XR might be the cheapest, just don't activate it on the carrier and use it like an iPad, over wifi. Those are around $230 to $300, and clearly retain their value, so you might only 'lose' less than $50 if you flip it.

would an iphone XR be upgradable to iOS16? Do iPhones upgrade their OS over WIFI?

 

[Richter Di]

would an iphone XR be upgradable to iOS16? Do iPhones upgrade their OS over WIFI?

Yes, they do.

 

[R GS]

So maybe a used iPhone XR might be the cheapest, just don't activate it on the carrier and use it like an iPad, over wifi.

Why would activating it be an issue? Also, if it is an issue, does removing the SIM card from an activated iphone make a difference?

 

[MichaelJames99]

Why would activating it be an issue? Also, if it is an issue, does removing the SIM card from an activated iphone make a difference?

I believe he only said that because I'm an Android user and only getting an iPhone for firmware updates and HTRF.. he's referring to the fact I dont have to activate a phone to do this. You should have no issues doing both using an activated iPhone as long as its on the list of phone that are iOS 16 compatible. https://www.phonearena.com/ios-16-release-date-features-news-compatible-iphones

 

[mrmac]

Hi guys!

I’m having some issues with the set top (the little LED box at the front). It stoped working and seem unresponsive to any changes in the HT settings. It lights up at power up, but then feels frozen. When unplugging and replugging it lights up for a second and then turns off. I’ve tried using different cables and plugging into the two different jacks on the sides with no help.

Any tips on how to resurrect this little thing?

 

[Litlgi74]

Hi guys!

I’m having some issues with the set top (the little LED box at the front). It stoped working and seem unresponsive to any changes in the HT settings. It lights up at power up, but then feels frozen. When unplugging and replugging it lights up for a second and then turns off. I’ve tried using different cables and plugging into the two different jacks on the sides with no help.

Any tips on how to resurrect this little thing?

You can try this...

From James... most important thing is to put the HT in his Freezer for 10-15min. Then let it warm up until it turns green. Then press the button on the HT to centre it.

I thought he was joking when he told me... But it works to fix problems with the headtracker.

 

[mrmac]

You can try this...

From James... most important thing is to put the HT in his Freezer for 10-15min. Then let it warm up until it turns green. Then press the button on the HT to centre it.

I thought he was joking when he told me... But it works to fix problems with the headtracker.

Thanks for your tip. I’m however not referring to the tracker on the headphones, but the “set top” thing in front. But maybe they are connected and doing the freeze reset might help resolve issues.

I’ll test and report my findings. I have emailed James too, but not expecting any response…

 

[phoenixdogfan]

Don't know what you mean when you say the set top "feels frozen." Does that mean the light displayed stay in one pattern, like only one lit up? If it does, it could indeed mean the Head Tracking unit has lost it's lock with the A16, and John is absolutely right that you should consider popping it into the freezer for around 15 minutes and then let it slowly come back to temperature. Doing that recalibrates the headtracker. You could also try and see if magnetic tracking works. As a matter of fact, you should look to see if you did not somehow turn it off optical tracking which would, I think, affect the behavior of the set top unit as well. Finally, you might need to reinstall the headtracking firmware, but only as a last resort. If the unit is lighting up, it's getting power, and it's probably some glitch with it going out of calibration.

 

[castleofargh]

Hi guys!

I’m having some issues with the set top (the little LED box at the front). It stoped working and seem unresponsive to any changes in the HT settings. It lights up at power up, but then feels frozen. When unplugging and replugging it lights up for a second and then turns off. I’ve tried using different cables and plugging into the two different jacks on the sides with no help.

Any tips on how to resurrect this little thing?

Check that you plugged it in the right hole. It's written set top on it but being at the back, I know I happened to do an unplug replug once without looking and went into another plug.

 

[Guittet]

Hi guys!

I’m having some issues with the set top (the little LED box at the front). It stoped working and seem unresponsive to any changes in the HT settings. It lights up at power up, but then feels frozen. When unplugging and replugging it lights up for a second and then turns off. I’ve tried using different cables and plugging into the two different jacks on the sides with no help.

Any tips on how to resurrect this little thing?

Hi, i had an issues with the set top once. I looked inside and the mini jack plug whas not attached to the board anymore . it has to be re-solder.

Maybe you can check that .
arnaud

 

[Citizen Zombie]

I have a quite vague idea and I'm not sure that this is going to work.

You all know the several offers from people like oratory1990 or Crinacle to EQ your headphones to a neutral standard, mostly the Harman curve. I tried every source I could with Equalizer APO on Windows and Wavelet on Android and several headphones like Beyerdynamic DT 1990 and Xelento, Sennheiser HD 600, HD 800, IE 8, TWS 1 and 3 among others. None of them really worked, the results were unsatisfactory with a sound as natural as a Cherry Coke Zero.
When I do my own EQ with a method quite close to David Griesinger's, my compensations looks much different than the measured results. I compare my headphones to my main monitors and these are calibrated with a microphone to a flat result with a slight decrease towards the heights just like Bob Katz does. My recordings transfer well to other systems and even the developer of the speakers was very pleased with the sound I achieve in my room.
So, for me the Harman curve seems to be not what it should be: a good target for sonic improvement. And this is the source of my idea.

Is it possible to extract the data for the measurement of the two main stereo speakers from the A16 for your headphone and compare it to the results provided by AutoEQ? In a way that you can plot the EQ curve like the curves in the programs used for equalisation?

 

[sander99]

You all know the several offers from people like oratory1990 or Crinacle to EQ your headphones to a neutral standard, mostly the Harman curve. I tried every source I could with Equalizer APO on Windows and Wavelet on Android and several headphones like Beyerdynamic DT 1990 and Xelento, Sennheiser HD 600, HD 800, IE 8, TWS 1 and 3 among others. None of them really worked, the results were unsatisfactory with a sound as natural as a Cherry Coke Zero.

That is very well possible. First of all a headphone frequency response on your head can be very different from measurements on some measurement rig. Secondly neutrality in headphones is a complicated concept that differs per individual. The Harman Curve is just an average that works for a large part of the people, but not for all people.

When I do my own EQ with a method quite close to David Griesinger's, my compensations looks much different than the measured results. I compare my headphones to my main monitors and these are calibrated with a microphone to a flat result with a slight decrease towards the heights just like Bob Katz does. My recordings transfer well to other systems and even the developer of the speakers was very pleased with the sound I achieve in my room.

Then my guess is that you will not easily improve on those results with measurements. The Realiser measurements are in fact not perfect and can benefit from manual improvement with the manLoud or manSpeaker method. (I am assuming by the way that you now want an EQ for normal headphone listening without speaker virtualisation? Because that would not be the same as a HPEQ.)