[bcwang]

Looks like firmware version 1.60 is up.

Sweet! Based on the known issue text change from version to version, hopefully that takes care of the excessive stream lock time, it's been annoying listening to music with the A16 because of that delay.

 

[dsperber]

What I do is use the menu->preset-A page to switch to the preset I want and "apply" at that point. Normally I use this mode to change presets rather than the PA menu.

Well this really is just another way to navigate sequentially through the list of presets you have, since you still have to (a) get there by pressing MENU and then PRESET-A, and then (b) ADJ +/- as many times as required in order to navigate to the desired preset, and then (c) push OK (or "select" or "apply" or "enter" whatever we want to call that button).

Turns out this particular method is actually significantly faster going through the ADJ +/- step because the speaker map and related software values for the preset loading doesn't have to get loaded until you push OK. This is in contrast to ADJ +/- while in speaker map display, when each next preset gets fully loaded as you land on it, which take 5+ seconds.

Otherwise, it still isn't the random/direct I'm looking for... like the P1-P4 keys of the A8, or how PA+n might work on the A16 if implemented.

 

[jgazal]

By the way, anyone know a way to turn off the A16 without using the remote?

push in and hold user a volume knob for at least 3 seconds

 

[dsperber]

Just applied firmware 1.60 upgrade. Went perfectly. Very elegant.

I then tested the new CD-related behavior which was supposed to reduce the 10-second mute down to around 1-second when skipping forward/backward or navigating tracks. The explanation for why it couldn't be reduced to zero was hardware decoder related, but the door was left open to perhaps make a more significant change to bypass the decoder entirely (and thus eliminate the mute entirely) if even this 1-second mute behavior is still unacceptable.

Well, turns out that 1-second of mute is then followed by a very short burst of sound which to me sounds like a small piece of the next piece of music to be played actually repeated twice. It's a little hard to characterize, but it certainly sounds like a "ta-ta", i.e. whatever the first non-mute sound is gets quickily repeated and then normal sound continues.

So we definitely have 9 seconds of mute eliminated, and that's good. But the one remaining 1-second must isn't really just pure mute and then normal sound starts. That first instant of sound starting has its own tiny double-sound anomaly which is easily heard. So my feeling is that this is still unacceptable, and that they'll just have to bite the bullet and totally eliminate use of the decoder for PCM audio if this is what is causing the whole problem, at least with CD source that has no video. Note that there is also a similar but short muting when navigating a DVD as with a CD.

Very much improved, but really still needs work.


Also, I figured out how to enter text in lower/uppercase. So I've corrected the spelling of my name in USERS to have capital letters starting my first and last name.

And finally, it is clear to me that the so-called assignment of the # key to write a bitmap (BMP) image of the LCD screen to the SD card can't possibly have been implemented yet. Or maybe it was initially designed but in the end it was impossible to implement as planned. So that graphic in the manual which describes the use of the # key may have simply been an early idea. But it certainly doesn't work today, and in my opinion it absolutely cannot work.

The problem is that the # key is part of the 12 numeric keypad buttons which are allocated to the SOLO function, either with live source coming in or in TEST mode (for SOLO, GROUP/MUTE, ALL). And the way they implemented the SOLO functionality (live or TEST) means pressing any one of the solo buttons solos that speaker which presumably has been associated with a virtual speaker (either the hard-wired buttons in the upper part of the remote, or the 12 numeric keypad buttons) triggers THAT speaker only, even if no speaker is associated with one of those 12 numeric keypad buttons. And that's the case with the # key , which has no default speaker assignment. But if you press it in "live SOLO" mode there's no speaker to solo so there's no sound. Alternatively, if # is manually assigned to solo some speaker, well that speaker's sound would be heard.

This is as it should be, but clearly prevents the # key from also functioning as "write BMP to SD card" when it's actually part of the set of keys assigned to SOLO, either live or TEST.

I think the documentation is incorrect here. Good idea to have an "instant screenshot to SD card", but it's definitely not going to happen with this key.

 

[hadron70]

Now is your opportunity to chime in with your suggestions. Should we proceed with creating new threads, or should this idea die on the vine?

My 2c: Please do NOT create new threads. Information will inevitably get doubled by some and overlooked by others if we would have multiple A16 threads.

If audiohobbit agrees, he could update the A16 "status page" https://www.head-fi.org/threads/smy...ions-feature-requests-tips-and-tricks.915293/ regularly.

 

[GeorgeA]

Now is your opportunity to chime in with your suggestions.

I'd be happy if someone could set up some unofficial realiser a16 frequently asked questions page. The model might be the page at watershade.net for the unofficial oppo udp-203 frequently asked questions. I'm aware that realiser a16 is a more sofisticated device than the oppo player and hence the frequently asked questions need to be more elaborated.

 

[dsperber]

The problem is that the # key is part of the 12 numeric keypad buttons which are allocated to the SOLO function, either with live source coming in or in TEST mode (for SOLO, GROUP/MUTE, ALL). And the way they implemented the SOLO functionality (live or TEST) means pressing any one of the solo buttons solos that speaker which presumably has been associated with a virtual speaker (either the hard-wired buttons in the upper part of the remote, or the 12 numeric keypad buttons) triggers THAT speaker only, even if no speaker is associated with one of those 12 numeric keypad buttons. And that's the case with the # key , which has no default speaker assignment. But if you press it in "live SOLO" mode there's no speaker to solo so there's no sound. Alternatively, if # is manually assigned to solo some speaker, well that speaker's sound would be heard.

This is as it should be, but clearly prevents the # key from also functioning as "write BMP to SD card" when it's actually part of the set of keys assigned to SOLO, either live or TEST.

I think the documentation is incorrect here. Good idea to have an "instant screenshot to SD card", but it's definitely not going to happen with this key.

Well, I got an answer from James about how this BMP functionality actually works. It turns out it IS associated with the # key, but it must be manually activated. As factory delivered default it is deactivated.

Settings > System > Factory tests > Press enter to proceed > navigate down to "Save LCD screen as BMP" item and press ADJ+/- to turn on (switch will change to green). Then BACK out. The # key is now activated as the BMP-generator key.

I did this, and then performed some experiments to learn exactly how this works. I also wanted to understand how the seeming conflict between # used as a BMP key and its second use as a SOLO key (for a manually assigned speaker if you want, or just left unassigned as factory delivered) resolves.

(1) When you then press # key with anything on the LCD display screen the BMP file is written to the \Realiser folder on the SD drive. And when outputting to the SD drive there is a little light inside the drive that you will see flash for a second or two, indicating WRITE in progress. That is the visible confirmation that the screenshot is taking place. For these few seconds the LCD screen also "freezes", until the BMP output is complete after which the screen behavior returns to normal.

(2) It is also true that the # key absolutely IS a SOLO key, no matter whether a speaker is assigned to it or not (as it is not from the factory). Turns out the apparent conflict with the now activated BMP function is resolved by the fact that the two operations ARE BOTH PERFORMED... BUT IN SEQUENCE, first one and then the other!

So the BMP is written out first by that functionality for the # key, and then the SOLO function is performed by that functionality for the # key. So BOTH results are achieved. Not what I expected, but it works perfectly.

Note that this actually does kind of produce a somewhat unexpected result, but obviously there's no way around it if you want both functions to be operative for the one # key. It can only be resolved as they've done it, doing one then the other second. But be advised, since # is actually a SOLO key either for (a) no pre-assigned speaker, or (b) a manually assigned speaker, when the SOLO function kicks in second (after writing the BMP out to the SD card) you will either have (a) NO SOUND, since there's no assigned speaker to SOLO, or (b) only sound from the one manually assigned speaker. You will then need to press ALL to restore sound to all speakers, or perhaps press another SOLO speaker if you want to do that. However you decide to exit from this SOLO mode, I'm afraid you're always going to have to do that whenever you use # as your BMP output key... because it also triggers the SOLO function for #.

No way around this given that they programmed two functions for one key. So just be prepared for # to get the BMP, which will also result in SOLO of that speaker (or no sound if there's no speaker assigned), so you must then also next press ALL to get back to normal. I guess I can live with that for the rare instances where I really to want BMP images of the screen.


So, I took a few BMP screenshots. The function works with ANYTHING on the screen, i.e. with all display outputs. And the file names contain the date/time.

Here's what my \Realiser folder now looks like after four BMP screenshots.

 

[audiohobbit]

The current XenForo platform used by Head-Fi does not include wiki functionality. Without the collaborative functionality of a wiki, we are left with creating articles each maintained in perpetuity by individual authors. I see this approach as untenable in the long term. If collaboration is a requirement, the alternative would be to create sub-threads that risk being polluted by extraneous off-topic discussions not pertinent to the subject. Neither option is ideal, but I'm keen on the idea of sharing relevant A16 information with the Head-Fi community and will support either approach.

To initiate the process, I've created links to Realiser A16 related threads on the Realiser A16 product page. All of these pages are tagged with "smyth-research-realiser-a16" to facilitate locating associated threads. I'd be happy to create addition threads, if deemed necessary, to organize A16 related information. For those interested in the A16, the following are a few examples of potential "reference" threads that may be useful:

• Smyth Research Realiser A16 - Glossary
• Smyth Research Realiser A16 - Reported Problems on Head-Fi (including current status)
• Smyth Research Realiser A16 - How-Tos
• Smyth Research Realiser A16 - FAQs (from Head-Fi members)

Smyth Research is working on providing some of this information. But I think it might be helpful to others if we augment information available on SR's web site with actual lessons learned from Head-Fi users.

Now is your opportunity to chime in with your suggestions. Should we proceed with creating new threads, or should this idea die on the vine? If there is enough interest in advancing this effort, let's identify next steps to consolidate and organize Realiser A16 information that is meaningful for Head-Fi members.

The thread in my sig please, thanks.

 

[audiohobbit]

My 2c: Please do NOT create new threads. Information will inevitably get doubled by some and overlooked by others if we would have multiple A16 threads.

If audiohobbit agrees, he could update the A16 "status page" https://www.head-fi.org/threads/smy...ions-feature-requests-tips-and-tricks.915293/ regularly.

Yes I will. As it seems you can edit posts forever here, no problem, but when I send s.th. to James I start a new post.
And I will subdivide the thread into different posts for (Issues, Features missing, feature requests)->all I send to Smyth* and (Workarounds and Tips and Tricks, FAQs). As it long as it are only a few lines per item no need for huge extra threads. At the moment I'd take this thread and link it in the product page. And if a mod could pin it on top here, maybe, would be good, if possible.
What I still miss is a possibility for more and longer polls. It seems that you can only have ONE poll per thread! And only max. 8 answers. That's not satisfactory.

*) No answer yet from James. I have absolutely no clue if he/they read it, if it's gone to nirvana, if they throw it away immediately, if they like it or not or whatever. I'd appreciate a short reply to see if our efforts are worth it or not.

 

[jgazal]

I also applied firmware 1.60 upgrade.
I’ve just tested the stereo analog in and front left and right analog outputs:

Cd (rca out) > A16 (stereo rca in and stereo 3.5mm stereo output sockets) > Amplifier (xlr in) > electrostatic headphones.​

Measured stereo speakers PRIR and electrostatic headphones HPEQ.
It works as advertised. Quick impressions:

The aluminum case is gorgeous.
It takes some time to get used to all menus, measurement routines, frequent mistakes and configurations.
I am surprised how visual cues do make a difference for me. Seeing the speakers really helps me to comprehend the externalization.
My speakers are not high end. I feel the externalization convolution actually sounds better than the real speakers in my living room.​

Now I will try to figure out how to implement a crosstalk cancellation virtualization.
Cheers.

 

[audiohobbit]

I also applied firmware 1.60 upgrade.
I’ve just tested the stereo analog in

If you refer to the reduced mute time with the new FW: This affects only the digital input. Analog has no problem with mute time (because it's always "listening").
With the analog stereo in however I encounter relatively high and somewhat strange noise level at higher volumes (with the Audeze LCD2, Gain high and digital volume over 60).

Got an email from James with advise to use the new FW. I think everyone with the A16 got this?

 

[Rozeqloud]

Good day

Am i understanding correctly. the A16 is finally released and in users hands?

Or are these just testers?

 

[audiohobbit]

You understand correctly.

We're only involuntary testers...
some bugs are there and the feature set is a bit reduced at the moment but more shall come with future FW.
But core functionality works and works well so far.

They are able to ship only about 10 units per week so far (seems they do a full test for every unit), so will take several months til everyone gets his/her unit.

IF you're willing to pay the full price of now 3995 dollar then you'll get a unit immediately. see https://smyth-research.com/product/a16-realiser-2u/ (also for reduced feature set at the moment). seems they had some orders cancelled and now have some extra units in stock.

 

[Rozeqloud]

You understand correctly.

We're only involuntary testers...
some bugs are there and the feature set is a bit reduced at the moment but more shall come with future FW.
But core functionality works and works well so far.

They are able to ship only about 10 units per week so far (seems they do a full test for every unit), so will take several months til everyone gets his/her unit.

IF you're willing to pay the full price of now 3995 dollar then you'll get a unit immediately. see https://smyth-research.com/product/a16-realiser-2u/ (also for reduced feature set at the moment). seems they had some orders cancelled and now have some extra units in stock.

Cheers mate

 

[Rozeqloud]

You understand correctly.

We're only involuntary testers...
some bugs are there and the feature set is a bit reduced at the moment but more shall come with future FW.
But core functionality works and works well so far.

They are able to ship only about 10 units per week so far (seems they do a full test for every unit), so will take several months til everyone gets his/her unit.

IF you're willing to pay the full price of now 3995 dollar then you'll get a unit immediately. see https://smyth-research.com/product/a16-realiser-2u/ (also for reduced feature set at the moment). seems they had some orders cancelled and now have some extra units in stock.

i have been reading about the DAC and amp used in A16, and since many of us here are (somewhat) audiophiles) those don't seem to be the most satisfying parts used, which may be bad news for a 5200.00 Canadian audio product

But,i think, the good news is that we have options to pass the A16 DAC, and amp, and use our own?

Is that correct?

I would like to use my RSA Darkstar as an amp, and the DAC in the Hegel H360, only using the A16 for decode surround

Is this doable? And is it a daft person-friendly LOL,to set that way?

Cheers