[You Gene]

Thanks @You Gene. It would be really great for Gilles to post A16 info online with the option to choose French, English or German. Just my two cents.

I just sent an email to Gilles to ask him to clarify everything in English and proposed to copy/paste what he allows me to post.

 

[sander99]

When they say that they will send you a capture file on an SD card are they saying that a some point after the session you will be receiving the SD card in the mail? I wonder why they couldn't just email the PRIR and HPEQ to you the same day that the measurements are taken,

Maybe Gilles wants to "lock" the PRIR so that it only works on the clients own A16. This could be done by asking the client to bring his/her own A16, set the "lock PRIRs" option and do the measurement with that A16 (like that studio in Munich does, at least I suspect that is the reason why they ask the clients to bring their own A16). But maybe instead Gilles sents the PRIR to Smyth, they will be able to set the lock for any choosen A16 (by serial number I assume).

 

[You Gene]

Maybe Gilles wants to "lock" the PRIR so that it only works on the clients own A16. This could be done by asking the client to bring his/her own A16, set the "lock PRIRs" option and do the measurement with that A16 (like that studio in Munich does, at least I suspect that is the reason why they ask the clients to bring their own A16). But maybe instead Gilles sents the PRIR to Smyth, they will be able to set the lock for any choosen A16 (by serial number I assume).

There is a translation error on my part :
The PRIR (Personal Room Impulse Response) capture file obtained is handed over to you on a SD card. (not sent to you)

Original : "Le fichier de capture PRIR (Personal Room Impulse Response) obtenu vous est remis sur carte SD".

Sorry about that.

 

[audiohobbit]

like that studio in Munich does, at least I suspect that is the reason why they ask the clients to bring their own A16

No, that's not the reason.

What does Gilles have as room and sound system, and what does he charge for the service, and how many look angles does he offer? 4s or 12s sweeps?

 

[sander99]

No, that's not the reason.

Of course now I want to know, what is the reason? The studio doesn't have an A16 maybe?

 

[You Gene]

Of course now I want to know, what is the reason? The studio doesn't have an A16 maybe?

Gilles is willing to answer our queries in English. I mentioned the following questions you raised :
1) does your participation give them the rights to your PRIR for their use (and profit) on Club Realiser?

2) What does Gilles have as room and sound system, and what does he charge for the service, and how many look angles does he offer? 4s or 12s sweeps?

3) Do we have to come with our own Realiser A16 ?

Wait & see

 

[esimms86]

Gilles is willing to answer our queries in English. I mentioned the following questions you raised :
1) does your participation give them the rights to your PRIR for their use (and profit) on Club Realiser?

2) What does Gilles have as room and sound system, and what does he charge for the service, and how many look angles does he offer? 4s or 12s sweeps?

3) Do we have to come with our own Realiser A16 ?

Wait & see

Thanks @You Gene!

 

[phoenixdogfan]

Thanks @You Gene. It would be really great for Gilles to post A16 info online with the option to choose French, English or German. Just my two cents.

Would be nice if somebody got something like that going in the USA. Also no details on the room (speakers, sound equipment, etc.) Very reasonable price, mais le billet d'avion! Ou, la, la!

 

[Janska]

Damn... my A16 has it's volume control on dev A busted. It makes "noise" when rolled, does not adjust volume and jams the UI. It keeps on working it's PCM/Atmos playing on my HP, but no changes are possible as it's jammed. I did several factory resets on it and tried all variations that I could think of and no change. If I touch the volume on dev A, it jams (volume does not change). Effect is the same with the physical knob as well as with the remote.
At least the dev B works fine.
I guess is just to contact Smyths and start packing it to a box


Anyone else having issues with the hardware so far?

 

[phoenixdogfan]

Damn... my A16 has it's volume control on dev A busted. It makes "noise" when rolled, does not adjust volume and jams the UI. It keeps on working it's PCM/Atmos playing on my HP, but no changes are possible as it's jammed. I did several factory resets on it and tried all variations that I could think of and no change. If I touch the volume on dev A, it jams (volume does not change). Effect is the same with the physical knob as well as with the remote.
At least the dev B works fine.
I guess is just to contact Smyths and start packing it to a box


Anyone else having issues with the hardware so far?

Mine went back to Northern Ireland b/c it froze up. Took 26 days to arrive from Nashville Usa b/c of an 18 day stay clearing customs. As of tomorrow, they will have had it 13 days without a word on what's wrong with it, and when it might be fixed.

 

[castleofargh]

Damn... my A16 has it's volume control on dev A busted. It makes "noise" when rolled, does not adjust volume and jams the UI. It keeps on working it's PCM/Atmos playing on my HP, but no changes are possible as it's jammed. I did several factory resets on it and tried all variations that I could think of and no change. If I touch the volume on dev A, it jams (volume does not change). Effect is the same with the physical knob as well as with the remote.
At least the dev B works fine.
I guess is just to contact Smyths and start packing it to a box


Anyone else having issues with the hardware so far?

My volume knob for user A doesn't always come back when I push on it, and that feels very crappy, but for now it doesn't impact any function or anything in my typical use so I let it be.


Noob diagnostic(did you plug the power cord to the wall outlet?):
Are your knobs freely "clickable"? If you push on it do you get the click that starts the A16? When you let go, does the knob freely come back into place? If not or if in doubt, try pulling very gently, and see if that gives you back the ability to change the volume when you turn.

If there is no obvious issue there, try to take the remote away(or take out the battery), and restart the A16 pushing down the volume knob. Is the volume working when you turn the knob?
If not then it's likely a bigger issue than the physical knob or the remote having a stuck button, and sending it back for repair seems like the obvious decision to me.

 

[Janska]

My volume knob for user A doesn't always come back when I push on it, and that feels very crappy, but for now it doesn't impact any function or anything in my typical use so I let it be.


Noob diagnostic(did you plug the power cord to the wall outlet?):
Are your knobs freely "clickable"? If you push on it do you get the click that starts the A16? When you let go, does the knob freely come back into place? If not or if in doubt, try pulling very gently, and see if that gives you back the ability to change the volume when you turn.

If there is no obvious issue there, try to take the remote away(or take out the battery), and restart the A16 pushing down the volume knob. Is the volume working when you turn the knob?
If not then it's likely a bigger issue than the physical knob or the remote having a stuck button, and sending it back for repair seems like the obvious decision to me.

Yes, I've unplugged it several times and had it unplugged for a longer time a few times, just to try out if it helps. No change.
The push function works to power off even when it's frozen otherwise. And comes on from pushing it too.. No impact on pulling on it - does not move more outwards. I have it at arms length from my seating place, so I use the volume knob mostly when needing volume changes and off/on switching.
Actually the rotating started breaking up right at the start when I had the unit. Only now I notice the difference when using the B-knob. From the start the A-knob was not working the same way as B is now: when rotating it to change volume, the changes to the volume were not linear. It was skipping a lot. Sometimes even I had to roll it a full round to get a single digit to change in volume. Now with B-knob, it changes a digit with each "click" on the knob. The A-knob never did that. It was randomly skipping from the start. Also I think it was making the clicking sound from the start. B-knob does not make a sound at all. You just feel the clicks, but it stays silent.
With the clear click sound, if seems to be a very physical issue.

 

[blubliss]

I've had the non-responsive volume before and reinstalling the firmware fixed it.

 

[phoenixdogfan]

I've had the non-responsive volume before and reinstalling the firmware fixed it.

Problems like this are why I call this product a beta test item. There's no reason why it should be necessary to reinstall firmware just to get a volume control working.

 

[GeorgeA]

If you're going to go to the expense and possible inconvenience to go for an appointment then it is certainly worthwhile for you to bring your favorite headphones along. As the Smyths have pointed out, your PRIR and HPEQ are best matched if they are both made during the same session.

It might be quite inconvenient to take your favourite headphones along for an appointment. This might be true not only for electrostatic headphones but also for other kinds of headphones. For example, Sennheiser HD800 is not quite easily transportable.

I’m aware that PRIRs and HPEQs are best matched if they are both made during the same session. However, if the PRIR is recorded with a pair of easily transportable headphones and then the HPEQ is made with the Sennheiser HD800 at home, does that mean that the final result is flawed?

When Smyth made PRIRs and HPEQs at various audio events they used their own headphones and it was understood that the prospective user of Realiser A16 was going to use his headphones for making HPEQ at home later.