[jexby]

  Hey guys/girls
 
Still having problems with the hum on the Bifrost/Lyr combo.  A couple of updates...
 
- Checked the wall sockets with a receptacle tester - no issues.
- Plugged the gear into different wall sockets - no difference.
- Tried different interconnects - No difference.
 
A couple of other things...
 - Tried my iPod hooked directly to the Lyr - no hum
 - Hum remains in Lyr as long as it is connected to the Bifrost, even when the Bifrost is switched off at the power
 - Hum stops if the Bifrost is unplugged from the wall.
 
Any thoughts?  I think the last item may be quite a telling element - appears that the problem must be in the Bifrost...

 
all of my same equipment AND issues.  stops once RCA is disconnected from Lyr and BiFrost unplugged from wall.
I reported long ago-  fixed with the JK Audio Pureformer in-between my RCA interconnects.  hum. gone.
YMMV as it may also with the Hum-X.
 
as noble and well-meaning advice it is to "fix the source" instead of the above bandaids, the time and cost for such often is frustrating and prohibitive.
and my JK Audio will "move with me" if I move the equipment to an office or other location.

 

[sceleratus]

The JK Audio Pureformer looks like a good solution.  That is where the loop is.
Seems safer than using something on the mains side too.  Both boxes remain grounded, but not linked.

 

[sceleratus]

Looked at the specs for JK Audio Pureformer.
The key words "Isolation Transformer"  Bingo !!
 
I've been working this weekend installing Jensen line input transformers in my amp.  SE to Diff.
 

 

[john57]

Since my Lyra is DC coupled this device mention will also block DC at the Lyr inputs as well. just down .1dB at 20Hz Insertion Loss: 0.8 dB
 
P.S. The trouble with Hum-X is that they are using diodes to lift the ground and will not work if there is a leakage between the power and chassis more likely to happen with tube amps. Also if you have a setup with many devices the Hum-X may not be as effective. That why I use a central AC isolation transformer.

 

[syvlvr]

I do like the sound, but am kind of on the fence, as I'm thinking of getting an Oppo BDP-105 which has the Sabre dac...let's me get much or maybe the same performance in a multi-use device. I could sell my BDP-103, Gungnir, and Squeezebox, and actually be slightly ahead. Decisions...
 
Quote:

  If anyone is on the fence about moving to a Gungnir. Do it.  A beautiful sound.

 

[syvlvr]

I am using a similar device, couldn't be happier, my tube amp used to drive me crazy with buzz.  I didn't get any satisfaction using a Tripp Lite IS500 Isolation Transformer. It did nothing for the ground loop I have at my place.
 
If you use Amazon, you can return things, like I did with the above-mentioned Isolation Transformer. Give it a shot.
 
Quote:

 
Since my Lyra is DC coupled this device mention will also block DC at the Lyr inputs as well. just down .1dB at 20Hz Insertion Loss: 0.8 dB
 
P.S. The trouble with Hum-X is that they are using diodes to lift the ground and will not work if there is a leakage between the power and chassis more likely to happen with tube amps. Also if you have a setup with many devices the Hum-X may not be as effective. That why I use a central AC isolation transformer.

 

[pdrm360]

  Thinking about getting a pair of dt990 600ohm 
 
i have asgard 2. Is lyr worth getting? 

It was worth to me.

 

[john57]

The Lyr is a good hybrid amp and response readily to different tubes properties. Unlike some cheaper hybrid amps the Lyr uses the tubes as an actual gain stage not as a buffer. You can use the line outputs on the back which is also feed by the tubes gain stage for active powered speaker monitors if you like. My Lyr is currently driving the JBL LSR305.

 

[MattTCG]

^^ I recently discovered that the lyr transfers out put stage of the tubes to powered speakers. I love running my speaker setup through the lyr now. 

 

[tuna47]

I upgraded from asgard 2 and love the lyr just so smooth and powerful you need to get nice tubes to reach potential

 

[jaywillin]

  ^^ I recently discovered that the lyr transfers out put stage of the tubes to powered speakers. I love running my speaker setup through the lyr now. 

oh that's one of the best things dude !!  my ps1's love it !!

 

[jaywillin]

 
 
people always said i was full of schiit !!
can i keep it all ??

 

[sceleratus]

 
Since my Lyra is DC coupled this device mention will also block DC at the Lyr inputs as well. just down .1dB at 20Hz Insertion Loss: 0.8 dB
 
P.S. The trouble with Hum-X is that they are using diodes to lift the ground and will not work if there is a leakage between the power and chassis more likely to happen with tube amps. Also if you have a setup with many devices the Hum-X may not be as effective. That why I use a central AC isolation transformer.

I vaguely recalled  your post with an alternative to Hum-X but that was it.  I've bookmarked the Pureformer.   Clearly in an apartment you won't fix the problem and in a house it a small probability you are going to easily find it.
 
The problem lies in PCB architecture that busses the grounds.  It's less likely you'll have the problem with an old school star topology with home run grounds.  Not positive here, but I don't think there would be a problem if the Bifrost output interface grounds went strait to mains ground.  Using isolation transformers is the way to go.  I am Not an Engineer. 

 

[zackzack]

  Thanks for that guys just to add though I'm using a USB input, not SPDIF stream, and the click does not come from the chassis but from the speakers themselves occasionally, as though they were being fed a higher signal intermittently (its not common, but just thought I should check that it's not a fault or anything). It seems that the clicks occur randomly, in the middle of a song rather than between songs. 

 
I had a problem with pops & cracks with my Bifrost/Asgard 2. I thought it was the chassis, interference from cables, power lines, grid, power socket, bad USB controller in Mac Mini, and I was haggling Schiit Audio for replacement. Last thing I did was replace the USB cable with an el cheap one I got from a local store, and you know what, the pops & cracks are gone. The old USB cable as it turned out came with a Canon printer I bought 7 years ago. The best $8 upgrade I ever done

 

[Tuco1965]

I too just got rid of crackle noise I was getting while using usb with my Bifrost.  I tried everything, changed ports, changed power outlets, changed cables, you name it.  It just happened that my old Dell laptop's screen was dying. BTW it was running Vista.  Bought a new Vaio with Windows 8 and all is great now.