[David Aldrich]

A poorly seated tube could arc between the socket and pin, that could lead to a high heat situation in the socket. If you're getting arcing sounds there is a chance it's not a bad tube but a bad connection.
 
http://schiit.com/faq/amp-problems
 
Should try swapping tubes when having issues like that, a bad component has the potential to take other components out with it.

 

[tomb]

 

  So I just had an issue this morning. I have a Schiit Valhalla (I) that I've been the single owner of for about 2.5 years now. I've been using it for about 2 and a quarter years with Tubemonger Socket Savers, essentially just to raise the tubes up, as I had an almost miserable time getting the 6n1p tubes out of their sockets and did not want a repeat lest I break a tube or something else!
 
So fast forward to a few months ago and I was getting an extended quiet crackling sound out of my left channel (fairly quiet). I figured it was about time for tube replacement (still using the original tubes). The sound would go away after about 3 minutes of warming up so I've just been letting it go. This morning, I noticed while watching a movie that there was occasional crackling coming from the left channel, even when going several hours later. Thinking it was unusual, I removed the tubes for the first time since I installed the socket savers and the left power tube (6n6p) had residue all over the pins. I looks at the socket saver and the socket pins were coated plastic just around the melting point. It was semi-soft and easily movable. The socket area around the pins had essentially melted on at least 3 of the pins.
 
Before I get around to replacing these, I'm trying to figure out what exactly happened? Naturally, the socket savers (shouldn't) melt in standard operation, so I'm curious as to why the tube got hot enough to melt the socket saver.
 
Anything I should be concerned about? Anyone else have this happen?

 
Like Rick said, I'd bet it's the savers.  Tubemonger are very reasonable folks, so I'd contact them, explaining it just as you have here.  I know when I suspected a problem with one of mine, they were eager to get it back to examine it.  I'd guess they'd be interested in this, too, and may have had others report something similar.
 
Good luck!

 
 

  I'm not sure using socket savers as a permanent solution is a good idea.  I've always measured higher distortion and noise from an amp when a tube(s) is plugged into a socket saver.  It could lead to oscillation with some tubes and cause the tube to overheat.

 
Wow - tubemonger contacted me right away after this post and asked if I had any problems with their product.  I have to say that's an impressive show of customer attention with their product.
 
However, I have never used any tubemonger product and my comment was just made as a general point of principle.  In using socket-savers, you are introducing both more connective surfaces in the circuit and greater distance between the tubes and the rest of the supporting components.  More connective surfaces mean an increased risk of connection failure over time.  Greater distance can affect some high-performance tubes that are on the edge of stability in the first place.  In some cases, I've seen SMD parts installed directly under the tube sockets because greater distances would lead to oscillation (6C45P, for instance).
 
Of course, the downside is that if you wear out a primary tube socket in your amp, it needs to be replaced.  Coming from the DIY-side of things, I don't see that as a problem, but I can understand others would view it differently.
 
Anyway - as I said, all of that is a general comment of principle regarding tube sockets in general.  It has nothing to do with tubemonger's products specifically.
 

 

 

[bretemm]

I have a marantz 5009 receiver and a Xbox one, I have the Schiit magi and modi and I'm trying to use the zone 2 of the marantz to plug into the XboxOne so then I can use the optical audio "out" to my Schiit, but, apparently the xboxone has a different optical audio out connections and it won't work?

Has anyone tried that? Or what do I need to be able to use my Marantz with no optical audio out?

 

[Spiral Out]

I have a marantz 5009 receiver and a Xbox one, I have the Schiit magi and modi and I'm trying to use the zone 2 of the marantz to plug into the XboxOne so then I can use the optical audio "out" to my Schiit, but, apparently the xboxone has a different optical audio out connections and it won't work?

Has anyone tried that? Or what do I need to be able to use my Marantz with no optical audio out?

Are you using HDMI to output audio and video from the xbox to the Marantz? If so the HDMI output will have to be set to uncompressed stereo in the settings menu on the xbox. The Modi will only decode a stereo signal, if the Xbox is outputting a surround signal the Modi will not work.

 

[bretemm]

How I had it was :
I switched the XboxOne to the second input to my tv,
Then I had the zone2 connected to the cable (Hdmi in) on the XboxOne
Then I had the optical audio connected to the Xbox to my Schiit

So
XBOXONE--TV HDMI--MARANTZ 2ND OUTPUT TO XBOXONE--then--OPTICAL AUDIO OUT FROM XBOX ONE to Schiit

But it just didn't work

The second video showed up on the cable app on the xboxone but just no sound from the optical audio to Schiit

 

[bretemm]

How I had it was :
I switched the XboxOne to the second input to my tv,
Then I had the zone2 connected to the cable (Hdmi in) on the XboxOne
Then I had the optical audio connected to the Xbox to my Schiit

So
XBOXONE--TV HDMI--MARANTZ 2ND OUTPUT TO XBOXONE--then--OPTICAL AUDIO OUT FROM XBOX ONE to Schiit

But it just didn't work

The second video showed up on the cable app on the xboxone but just no sound from the optical audio to Schiit

Are you using HDMI to output audio and video from the xbox to the Marantz? If so the HDMI output will have to be set to uncompressed stereo in the settings menu on the xbox. The Modi will only decode a stereo signal, if the Xbox is outputting a surround signal the Modi will not work.

 

[bretemm]

Thank you! That worked

 

[gefski]

So I just had an issue this morning. I have a Schiit Valhalla (I) that I've been the single owner of for about 2.5 years now. I've been using it for about 2 and a quarter years with Tubemonger Socket Savers, essentially just to raise the tubes up, as I had an almost miserable time getting the 6n1p tubes out of their sockets and did not want a repeat lest I break a tube or something else!

I'm not sure using socket savers as a permanent solution is a good idea.  I've always measured higher distortion and noise from an amp when a tube(s) is plugged into a socket saver.  It could lead to oscillation with some tubes and cause the tube to overheat.

I agree with not using socket savers unless it's an adaptor for some rare tube. I had a Valhalla for a couple years and rolled lots of tubes with no problems. Here's a little tip. Cut a piece of rubberized shelf liner. Great grip, easy removal & insertion.



Or I can sell you some audiophile-grade shelf liner for $100 per square inch.

 

[wavz]

Does anyone have any experience with the Schiit Vali and Sennheiser HD 650 Headphones?

 

[raybone0566]

Does anyone have any experience with the Schiit Vali and Sennheiser HD 650 Headphones?

Yes, I have the modi/vali combo with the 650's and they pair great together. I have the asgard2 as well but prefer the vali.

 

[Rossliew]

I have a Vali and it pairs well with the HD600 - gives it a more holographic imaging but bass can be a bit rounded/bloated due to the tube input.

On a similar note, received my Magni 2 Uber yesterday and burning them in now - sounding great with my Grados and the HD600 as well. Somehow, i prefer the Magni/HD600 pairing better than the Vali/HD600 pairing - the extra solid state power really tightens things up and overall it sounds more presentable to me IMO

 

[cuiter23]

I have a Vali and it pairs well with the HD600 - gives it a more holographic imaging but bass can be a bit rounded/bloated due to the tube input.

On a similar note, received my Magni 2 Uber yesterday and burning them in now - sounding great with my Grados and the HD600 as well. Somehow, i prefer the Magni/HD600 pairing better than the Vali/HD600 pairing - the extra solid state power really tightens things up and overall it sounds more presentable to me IMO

 
Some people prefer the lusher sounding tubes with the 600/650s which already have quite a smooth and warm SQ.
 
While others prefer a more powerful SS amp without adding any additional warmness to the already warm sounding 600/650.
 
Personally I prefer the latter. 

 

[rune-san]

   
 
 
Wow - tubemonger contacted me right away after this post and asked if I had any problems with their product.  I have to say that's an impressive show of customer attention with their product.
 
However, I have never used any tubemonger product and my comment was just made as a general point of principle.  In using socket-savers, you are introducing both more connective surfaces in the circuit and greater distance between the tubes and the rest of the supporting components.  More connective surfaces mean an increased risk of connection failure over time.  Greater distance can affect some high-performance tubes that are on the edge of stability in the first place.  In some cases, I've seen SMD parts installed directly under the tube sockets because greater distances would lead to oscillation (6C45P, for instance).
 
Of course, the downside is that if you wear out a primary tube socket in your amp, it needs to be replaced.  Coming from the DIY-side of things, I don't see that as a problem, but I can understand others would view it differently.
 
Anyway - as I said, all of that is a general comment of principle regarding tube sockets in general.  It has nothing to do with tubemonger's products specifically.
 

 

I wanted to say the same thing. When I checked on this thread the next day, I saw a PM and see that Tubemonger contacted me and asked me to open a case with them. I showed them the pictures and they are replacing all four without charge, and want the old ones back (they are covering shipping too) for analysis. Given that these are several years old, I have to say that is stellar customer attention.
 
I've ordered new driver tubes because I was unable to remove much of the coating on the pins by cleaning. Driver tubes aren't that expensive, and I would rather ensure that I don't introduce a problem directly in the Ceramic sockets by putting those contaminated driver tubes in there. Pre-amp tubes are fine, so I'm going to keep going on those.

Thanks again community for being so quick to offer this quiet fan some advice!

 

[BLACKENEDPLAGUE]

A new Schiit product idea for Jason
 
A speaker amp with ultra low distortion, class AB, 60-70 watts at 8 ohms and maybe around the $400 range (along with like 6 inputs and a sub out)
 
Is this possible? I know Schiit is primarily a headphone oriented company but give a little more love to us speaker-heads

 

[Synergist969]

  Well...Since we are suggesting additional audio components to be designed/manufactured by Schiit Audio, I would add to the wish list:
 
A digital/analog pre-amp, (passive or semi-passive(?) in order to preserve pristine signal integrity), accepting both a few high output analog signal sources, as well as an input or two for a web-based digital music feed, be it from a computer OR perhaps directly from the router, and the ability to decode it.  The Primary D/A converter would be OUTBOARD, such as the Yggdrasil, or other high quality converter, so it might be similar to the Cambridge Audio 851N Upsampling Network Music Player, but WITHOUT an on-board D/A converter, (leave that to the outboard D/A to minimize signal degradation).  This component would share the best qualities/abilities of the Cambridge unit, (signal source input and output selection as well as signal attenuation at the pre-amp outs), as well as providing the consumer with the ability to select and only pay for the D/A converter of one's choice. It would be similar to the Ragnarok except for no on-board amplifier, so that if one desired to feed an outboard amplifier/speakers, one would not have to turn on another amplifier that was not being used. Saves on power bills AND room heat...lol...
 
Would be a fantastic pairing(?) with both the Yggdrasil AND the Ragnarok...a perfect combination!...