Review: ZERO 24 BIT/192KHz DAC/Headphone Amp/Pre-Amp
Jul 28, 2008 at 12:08 AM Post #4,576 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by Nedman /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Hi matrix200, I got mine off wsz0304 [upgraded version]. I did notice with mine, the OPA627's were mounted on an under and over adapter. Not the side by side unit that I understand Lawrence uses. And I also found it extremely hard to read the printing on the on the op-amp [I needed both my reading glasses and a magnifying glass to see the printing on mine]. I'm not saying he didn't make a mistake, but it might be worth checking.


That's a good point! Those have to be the smallest letters I have seen in years! Worse than legal stuff!
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Jul 28, 2008 at 12:37 AM Post #4,577 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by Penchum /img/forum/go_quote.gif
That's a good point! Those have to be the smallest letters I have seen in years! Worse than legal stuff!
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My eyes are not the best now days LOL. After 35 years of doing very fine tig welding [around ½ mm was standard], I can't see much closeup at all now LOL.

Just to be clear, this is the op-amp and adapter I was supplied with mine.

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Jul 28, 2008 at 12:43 AM Post #4,578 of 9,388
I have the same upgraded one as you Nedman, because I got it from the same seller as well.
 
Jul 28, 2008 at 3:20 AM Post #4,580 of 9,388
i'm getting my zero this saturday (whee!!). any thought of using it with IEM, particularly triple fi?
 
Jul 28, 2008 at 5:43 AM Post #4,581 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by NumpXP /img/forum/go_quote.gif
i'm getting my zero this saturday (whee!!). any thought of using it with IEM, particularly triple fi?


With an IEM you should really consider a volume pot upgrade or you might go deaf trying to get equal volume levels on the left and right channels.
 
Jul 28, 2008 at 8:17 AM Post #4,582 of 9,388
Ok guys I admit I might be wrong.
I will recheck that later today and will let you know.
The thing is I did find the 2604 there too.
Does it mean that in upgrade version the 2604 is left on the PCB and they just add the OPA627?
Anyways worth checking
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Jul 28, 2008 at 8:19 AM Post #4,583 of 9,388
NumpXP , I have tried using it with my Ety's and after fiddling a little to eliminate some noise sources I was able to keep the noise to a minimum.
It becomes apparent only about after 9 o'clock position.
The weird thing is I almost don't need to turn the volume down because they sound about as loud as the Senns at the same position.
 
Jul 28, 2008 at 9:33 AM Post #4,584 of 9,388
Understand a good CD transport is important. Any recommendation for a budget DIY CD transport (preferably one with a ready/built-in digital co-axial output terminal) to go with the Zero DAC?
I plan to use the Zero in a hi-fi set up.
Thanks!
 
Jul 28, 2008 at 10:56 AM Post #4,585 of 9,388
My Zero makes pop/crackling sounds just like matrix200's seems to, only mine does it after about an hour or so of running time.

There are a few things that I think it could be.

First off, the optical output. My PC can output DTS audio, Dolby Digital, and WMA Pro Audio. I've never used WMA, but the other two seems to work exactly the same, and the popping sound starts and acts the same way.

The next thing I can think of is unreliable power. I have the Chinese version, So I have a power converter that up converts 110V to 220V. It could be that after an hour or so of running time it gets hot and the power output isn't as constant.

The Final thing is that maybe the Zero itself is getting sort of hot.


The popping is really annoying, and I find myself not really using the Zero because of it. It's my only amp, so therefor I don't use my headphones a lot because of it.

Ive actually considered running an extension cord from the laundry room to test the power. Maybe I'll actually do that tomorrow.
 
Jul 28, 2008 at 11:24 AM Post #4,586 of 9,388
since you have both, Penchum how does the zero compare sith the LD mkV when used as an headphone amp ? It is not dual mono...but seems a well built amp...

p.s. a simple question,how wide is the unit front panel ?
 
Jul 28, 2008 at 12:19 PM Post #4,587 of 9,388
Just a note that I've finally joined the Zero club. And wow, very impressed so far.

My Zero arrived today from our friend Lawrence with OPA627AU + 2 pcs LT1364 upgrades already installed. (At least I think it did, haven't opened it up yet to check...)

I've hooked it up with using the optical digital output of my Mac Pro, seems to work nicely.

Anyway without going on too much about it, this is a simply fantastic amplifier. On first listen it seems to be a big step up from my previous amp, the Corda Move, although I haven't done a lot of back-to-back listening yet.

One slight downside I had not seen mentioned before is that the transformer seems to be a little on the noisy side. It's not distracting or anything with the headphones on, but lets just say I'll be keeping it turned off when not in use.

Also it seems to require only a slight turn of the volume dial to reach ear-bleeding levels of sound. I'm wondering if there's a gain reduction jumper or something internally?

Lastly, while I'm asking questions: any way to get it to start up with the headamp output instead of the preamp output by default? Not a big issue of course, just wondering.
 
Jul 28, 2008 at 1:46 PM Post #4,588 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by SLUSHIE /img/forum/go_quote.gif
My Zero makes pop/crackling sounds just like matrix200's seems to, only mine does it after about an hour or so of running time.

There are a few things that I think it could be.

First off, the optical output. My PC can output DTS audio, Dolby Digital, and WMA Pro Audio. I've never used WMA, but the other two seems to work exactly the same, and the popping sound starts and acts the same way.

The next thing I can think of is unreliable power. I have the Chinese version, So I have a power converter that up converts 110V to 220V. It could be that after an hour or so of running time it gets hot and the power output isn't as constant.

The Final thing is that maybe the Zero itself is getting sort of hot.


The popping is really annoying, and I find myself not really using the Zero because of it. It's my only amp, so therefor I don't use my headphones a lot because of it.

Ive actually considered running an extension cord from the laundry room to test the power. Maybe I'll actually do that tomorrow.



So you're sending Dolby Digital and DTS signals to the Zero? I am very surprised - I know it's a DAC, but I thought it was only a simple 2.0 channel DAC that decoded two channel LPCM. Does it DOWNMIX the DD or DTS to two channels?

Do you get the popping when you listen to two channel music, too? Is your sound card set to 'two channel', or is it upmixing music?
 
Jul 28, 2008 at 1:48 PM Post #4,589 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by Citizen86 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Audiophewl, I understand that you're upset, especially with the delay of your shipment and now it isn't working, and I don't mean any offense when I say this, but you have to still be a little more patient.


More patient? It took him 2 weeks to mail me a faulty item. Even if I give him the benefit of the doubt on that front, he still sent it incomplete despite my emails being very specific about what I thought I was ordering. I was told it would ship early w/c 6th June, which is when I paid him. He failed to update me on a single occasion without me emailing him to enquire as to the whereabouts of my item - it finally shipped 19th June.

Other people are now starting to come out of the woodwork, having problems with him. Precisely how long should I give him the opportunity to ignore my emails(I've still not received a response to my last email) and empty his Paypal account? You also have to keep in mind that Paypal take 20 days before they even look at a dispute, going from previous experience. He has plenty of time to "make good" the current situation.

Quote:

As far as I know, this is still just one guy or a very small group doing these orders, and you are trying to start a paypal dispute because he didn't answer your email on a saturday night (I think sunday there).

.I know it sucks and you possibly have to send your zero back, and that's no fun, but you can't be expecting people to be working 24/7. You should wait until monday or tuesday to be trying to open any type of paypal dispute. This is all IMO, just like the rest of head-fi : p


The way things stand, the guy has all but disappeared having mailed me incomplete and faulty goods, with $186 of my money. That money is a fair amount of dough to me. He always responded within 24 hours before I sent him the money, and a little slower since then. Even on weekends.

Makes no odds if it's a team of one, or one-hundred. At the moment he's gone silent on me, after a problem arising. I'm not about to let that situation continue indefinitely, hence I started the dispute.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Penchum /img/forum/go_quote.gif
AP,

Sorry things haven't gone quite the way you wanted, or rather expected within a time frame. When a situation like this comes up, it is very knee jerk and common to "caution" others because of your perceived difficulty. The problem with that is, none of us can see what is happening on the other end. There is usually some "thing" that is delaying processes and we have no idea it even exists.

Thinking about time though, there is much going on over there right now, and I bet weekends are all used up doing things with families. Hang in there man. This kind of thing has been extremely rare, and it has always been taken care of. I can't imagine why yours wouldn't be taken care of too.
smily_headphones1.gif



Would it be better for me to keep quiet, and allow other people to continue dealing with him on the strength of previous feedback? This thread is full of honest feedback; I'm just continuing that trend.

If someone had a story like mine the week before I'd parted with my money, then I'd have sat on the fence a while so the situation could sort itself out. Had they kept quiet, I'd have been going into the situation totally-blind of others' current dealings with the guy.

I'm not trying to ruin his reputation, nor stop people doing business with him. But at the moment he's shafted me, and has been un-impressively quiet since I offered him the opportunity to make things good again.

I will gladly come in here and shout, in uppercase characters with a bold typeface, that he's decided to mail me another, complete with opamps, and collect the faulty unit. Heck, I'd even do it if he gave me an address to return the unit to. But at the moment the only updates are from my side of the fence, because they're the only updates coming from either party.

He may be in jail for being drunk and disorderly. He may have ran-off with my money whilst sending me an older, returned unit.

I don't know, and it wouldn't be fair on potential buyers for me to say nothing whilst being left in the dark.

Sorry for the big post, and I'm sorry if folk think I should have say on the fence before opening a dispute. But they do take 3 weeks for anything to happen, which IMO is plenty of time for the situation to resolve itself.
smily_headphones1.gif


Cheers,

~Phewl.
 
Jul 28, 2008 at 1:58 PM Post #4,590 of 9,388
Ok guys I think I finally resolved the pops issue.
Looks like my old junk receiver is to blame.
I have hooked up the Zero with the RCA cables so I could use the speakers too when desired.
Apparently this was a bad decision.
After I disconnected the RCA outputs of Zero from my receiver the problem seems to be gone.
I haven't had a single pop or any other unwanted noise since this morning!
I am thinking the problem with the receiver is that doesn't have the third pin in its power plug .
That is it isn't grounded properly.
Since I have lots of things connected , everytime there is some interference in the power supply it got down the rca jacks right into my Zero.
I was able to verify that by turning the receiver on and off.
When the RCA output is connected I was getting a pretty loud pop. Not so now that RCA cables are disconnected.
I am going to get an RCA switch so I can have my Zero connected to the receiver but have it electrically isolated when I don't use the speakers.

Regarding the opamp used inside it is not 627 as I suspected.
I got an answer from the seller.
He is asking to get him a pics of the PCB so he can have a proof of the mistake.
And SLUSHIE, I must tell that my problem also became evident after a while (most of the time).
Do you have something connected to your RCA outputs like I did?
 

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