[Penchum]

Quote:

Originally Posted by dacavalcante /img/forum/go_quote.gif No, it doesn't happen on ALL music..... well... this songs are on Flac, from Hi-Fi recordings, so I don't think it's recording distortion..... So, a driver not well seated into the grid could be a chance..... it is like the driver was over excursionating and hiting something with bass at high level... But, how do I rule it ? I'm kind of scared of opening a headphone that costs almost $1050,00 here in Brazil.....

It sure is a unique problem! Do you have another pair of headphones available? I was wondering if you could check those tracks with a different pair, to see if the bass is super low, or perhaps distorted and you can hear it with the other headphones?

Another test, would be to switch the L & R plugs on the headphones, to see if the "problem" crosses over to the other channel?

 

[Penchum]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dihnekis /img/forum/go_quote.gif Did anyone determine if this goes all the way to 96khz?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Penchum /img/forum/go_quote.gif I've got an email out to Lawrence, to verify which is correct. I hope to hear from him today.

Here is the reply from Lawrence:

Dear Sir ,

Yes, you are right!
The official data sheet told us that it is 24bits and up to 55KHz. It is not 24/96.
But up to this moment , many USB to SPDIF adaptor only up to 16/44.1
UDA1321PS is almost the top chip among the market competitors.

Thank you very much !

Best regards,
Lawrence

So, there you have it.

 

[dacavalcante]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Penchum /img/forum/go_quote.gif I understand. I get the jitters every time I take mine apart! First, disconnect the cord from the headphones. It is a plug, so pull straight down. The outside grill, is removed by pulling outwards from the top. There is just enough room at the top, to get your fingers in the small gap there. Once that is removed, look at the very center. The round bit is the driver, with the square tube running down to the bottom of the cup, which contains the driver leads. You can remove it by pulling gently outwards on the driver. You'll see the plastic locks that hold the driver in place, and once you re-insert the driver, you can make sure they lock securely. While the driver is out, inspect it for damage or foreign material laying in or around it. I wouldn't recommend touching the driver's face. It is delicate in the extreme. Then put everything back the way it came out. A caution: When you re-insert the plugs for L & R, the pins are different in diameter and must be put in correctly. The easy way to tell if you are doing it correctly, is to look at the plug. If the L or R on the plug is facing you, you are doing it the correct way. I just checked one of mine and sure enough, it was not locked all the way in. So I'm glad this came up.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Penchum /img/forum/go_quote.gif It sure is a unique problem! Do you have another pair of headphones available? I was wondering if you could check those tracks with a different pair, to see if the bass is super low, or perhaps distorted and you can hear it with the other headphones? Another test, would be to switch the L & R plugs on the headphones, to see if the "problem" crosses over to the other channel?

Great ideia, I'll try first to switch L & R, and I still got my 555 around here, I just have to unbox it..... After doing these verifications I can possibly know if it's a headphone problem or recording.........
If it's a headphone problem, I'll follow your guide to try fixing this strange noise.... I'll let you know what happened

 

[dacavalcante]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Penchum /img/forum/go_quote.gif I understand. I get the jitters every time I take mine apart! First, disconnect the cord from the headphones. It is a plug, so pull straight down. The outside grill, is removed by pulling outwards from the top. There is just enough room at the top, to get your fingers in the small gap there. Once that is removed, look at the very center. The round bit is the driver, with the square tube running down to the bottom of the cup, which contains the driver leads. You can remove it by pulling gently outwards on the driver. You'll see the plastic locks that hold the driver in place, and once you re-insert the driver, you can make sure they lock securely. While the driver is out, inspect it for damage or foreign material laying in or around it. I wouldn't recommend touching the driver's face. It is delicate in the extreme. Then put everything back the way it came out. A caution: When you re-insert the plugs for L & R, the pins are different in diameter and must be put in correctly. The easy way to tell if you are doing it correctly, is to look at the plug. If the L or R on the plug is facing you, you are doing it the correct way. I just checked one of mine and sure enough, it was not locked all the way in. So I'm glad this came up.

Could you upload a video to youtube teaching how to do that ?
Because I'm freak scared of trying it.....

 

[Penchum]

Quote:

Originally Posted by dacavalcante /img/forum/go_quote.gif Could you upload a video to youtube teaching how to do that ? Because I'm freak scared of trying it.....

Sorry!

There was a website that had pictures of it, but I can't seem to find it now.

Anyone else know where one is??

 

[4EvrChaser]

Howdy Dacavalcante,

I had a problem like yours on my DT 770/80 and after using the search on this problem.
It turned out to be a known problem, which was a hair touching the driver.
Also, if I remember correctly, at Headphile website he had something on how to remove
the grill to install one of his upgraded grills. At least you can see how remove the grill.

 

[Dihnekis]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Penchum /img/forum/go_quote.gif Here is the reply from Lawrence: Dear Sir , Yes, you are right! The official data sheet told us that it is 24bits and up to 55KHz. It is not 24/96. But up to this moment , many USB to SPDIF adaptor only up to 16/44.1 UDA1321PS is almost the top chip among the market competitors. Thank you very much ! Best regards, Lawrence So, there you have it.

Thanks for sorting that out! I'm probably just gonna wait until I get a better computer with spdif out.

 

[AudioPhewl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ianp /img/forum/go_quote.gif So, I finally got round to doing this bypass capacitor mod and I believe that it has improved the sound. A little more detail and perhaps some more airiness to the sound. These things are kind of subjective by the time you have uncased the PCB, added the caps in and put it all back together I'm showing my age by listening to TELEGRAPH ROAD at the moment. BTW I said I'd post again when my 2nd unit arrived. The USPS website indicates it left China on the 24th and cleared US customs today, so my guess it will be with me on the morrow. I await its arrival with a soldering iron, some resistors and capacitors!

Good stuff. Glad to hear you found an improvement

. The difference was very noticeable on mine, but mine hadn't been used long enough to meet the common "burn in" criteria - not that I have much belief in it...

Maybe I'm wrong. and that's why the difference was so apparent to me with my unit...

 

[Pricklely Peete]

AP did you get the HDAM yet ? I'm curious about your thoughts on it's SQ.

Peete.

 

[dacavalcante]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Penchum /img/forum/go_quote.gif Sorry! There was a website that had pictures of it, but I can't seem to find it now. Anyone else know where one is??

Oh... =(

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4EvrChaser /img/forum/go_quote.gif Howdy Dacavalcante, I had a problem like yours on my DT 770/80 and after using the search on this problem. It turned out to be a known problem, which was a hair touching the driver. Also, if I remember correctly, at Headphile website he had something on how to remove the grill to install one of his upgraded grills. At least you can see how remove the grill.

Hah! Great! I'll check for that

 

[suneohair]

Hey I am new here, and very new to the high-end audio stuff

I am really interested in the Zero and am looking to buy one. Is this ebay seller ok: wsz0304

They have an "upgrade" version which has the OPA627. One thing I am not clear on is whether or not the OPA627 drives the headphones or just the line out. The price for this one is $166. They have the older version with the OPA2604 for $151, so this upgrade one seems to be a good deal.

I have not picked the monitors yet. But I am thinking something like the AD700 or K601/701. From what I have read here, the Zero should have no problems with this.

Thanks for your help!

 

[Nedman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by suneohair /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hey I am new here, and very new to the high-end audio stuff I am really interested in the Zero and am looking to buy one. Is this ebay seller ok: wsz0304 They have an "upgrade" version which has the OPA627. One thing I am not clear on is whether or not the OPA627 drives the headphones or just the line out. The price for this one is $166. They have the older version with the OPA2604 for $151, so this upgrade one seems to be a good deal.

I just got mine delivered about an hour ago. The OPA627 is only on the DAC side, mounted on a duel sided adapter [one top and one bottom]. On the amp side it seems to be two NE5532P's. I say seems because I haven't got very good eye sight and I had a lot of trouble trying to read the print, and my camera seemed to be having as much trouble as me seeing the fine printing [I think we are both out of date

]. But if I squinted and used a magnifying glass, I could definitely see OPA627 written on it.

 

[StratCat]

Quote:

Originally Posted by richierich /img/forum/go_quote.gif It's now $22.95! Did the price of Brass metal go up that fast in only 6 months?

I wonder if this could be caused in part, by a combination of a drastically fallen U.S. dollar, the long run in commodities, and much higher transportation costs due to fuel prices.

It's a 65% increase, and I'm not saying it's justified, but I've been seeing 6 mos and 1 yr old posts here with prices on cans that are substantially under the current prices I'm seeing (tho not to the degree of the knob). I just attributed the disparity it to the fallen dollar, etc.

 

[StratCat]

Quote:

Originally Posted by suneohair /img/forum/go_quote.gif [...] I have not picked the monitors yet. But I am thinking something like the AD700 or K601/701. From what I have read here, the Zero should have no problems with this. Thanks for your help!

From my experience, the Zero's stock HP/amp will easily drive the AD700's to any level you'd likely use, and then some. I'm currently running AD700's (amongst others) out of my Zero just fine. Then again, my two AT cans I've had (AD700 + A700) seem pretty easy to drive, IMO.

As for the K701's, I may become lucky enough to answer that question later this week. I'll have to see what I can work out tomorrow.

 

[tinseljim]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4EvrChaser /img/forum/go_quote.gif After listening to it a little, I have to say I am very impressed with it in regards/compared to my other DACs and amps. I am sitting here with a smile on my face thinking “man, not bad for $230.”

Good news welcome to the the Zero family

I'm interested in the fact that you think the Zero competes well with the other DACs you own:

ZERO
RAM DAC-AH
IBASSO D1
BITHEAD (06)

How would you rate them in preference? Maybe we could keep an ongoing list of DACs and their relative subjective ratings (similar to SkyLabs portable list).

In A/B comparisons for DAC alone my list would be:

1. Zero (OPA627s)
2. Yamaha DSP-E800

BTW what mods did you have done on your Zero to get it up to $230?