[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by djembeplay /img/forum/go_quote.gif Wow, thanks alot Peete... I suppose I'll give it a shot. So it sounds very likely that Lawrence did indeed test it and it was a good solder, but it just broke loose in transit? This is common? I mean, I suppose it did come half way across the world.

Its certainly possible. I've seen stranger things

Peete.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by djembeplay /img/forum/go_quote.gif Wow, thanks alot Peete... I suppose I'll give it a shot. So it sounds very likely that Lawrence did indeed test it and it was a good solder, but it just broke loose in transit? This is common? I mean, I suppose it did come half way across the world.

Practice on some old garbage pots and pcb's to get a feel for the iron and solder process. You'll have it down in no time.

Peete.

 

[fishkill62]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif Digi-Key ships worldwide. Just input LT1364 in search window at Digi-Key site. Good prices too. Peete.

Thanks for the advice Peete. Lawrence has told me my Zero will ship next week, can't wait. He is fitting the OPA627AU's in the Dac and I will fitting the LT1364's in the headphone section when it arrives.

Do you know if this is the best setup for my AKg 701's?

Thanks Chris.....

 

[vvanrij]

So far its my and a couple of more guys here's favorite.

 

[tinseljim]

Quote:

Originally Posted by vvanrij /img/forum/go_quote.gif So far its my and a couple of more guys here's favorite.

Yep after trying quite a few I prefer this as well.

James

 

[Currawong]

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishkill62 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thanks for the advice Peete. Lawrence has told me my Zero will ship next week, can't wait. He is fitting the OPA627AU's in the Dac and I will fitting the LT1364's in the headphone section when it arrives. Do you know if this is the best setup for my AKg 701's? Thanks Chris.....

I like this combo with my re-cabled 701's, both listening through my MKV or directly from the ZERO. The combo tends to sound more warm (yet still very detailed) which is better IMO for the analytical 701's.

 

[Penchum]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ogglethorpe /img/forum/go_quote.gif A pad is a solderable area on the circuit board for placement of an electronic component - resistor, cap, pot, etc. The pins on the component go through the throughholes on the circuit board, and circular pads. The solder is applied to the pins and the pads making the connection. The pad connects to the trace to go wherever the signal needs to go. Whoever replaced my pot didn't remove enough solder, so upon yanking the pot out a pad came with it! That's typically a very bad thing when replacing components as it may be very difficult (or next to impossible) to get at the trace for that pin to reconnect it if necessary. I just checked my Zero and it looks like this was addressed as I can see that particular pin reconnected to where it should go. Good! I also listened to a CD I have (REM Out of Time) on a separate system - just CD player digital out to an old Pioneer receiver I have and still heard the same hiss/static through my headphones SO Could my headphones be the issue here? They're only HD280pros. Unfortunately I have nothing else to compare with at the moment. Of course the hiss is only audible when there is very little sound in the recording. Or perhaps the hiss/static is perfectly reasonable? Thanks!

Wow, I'm sorry. Got my head up my other end. I do remember what a pad is now.

I'm glad it doesn't seem to be the issue.

Look on your CD case, and see if it is labeled AAD. If it is, the master tape it was made from had tape hiss, and this was carried forward onto the CD. Not much you can do about that. If you have a CD that is DDD, give it a try and see if the noise is gone.

I do believe the hiss is from your source, which you verified by trying the other system.

 

[Penchum]

Quote:

Originally Posted by vvanrij /img/forum/go_quote.gif So far its my and a couple of more guys here's favorite.

It seems like the OPA627's in the DAC and LT1364's in the headphone amp, are a "universal" matching. I like it with Senns, you guys with the AKG's and several others with different phones earlier on. This is cool!!

There is nothing as sweet as quality audio at a low price point, that gives universal satisfaction!

Three cheers to all of you for checking it out!! Many others will benefit from this.

Lawrence is the man!

 

[prospero21]

I cant believe it.. My Zero arrived today

After spending over 2 weeks at the customs office, it finally came in today.

I've hooked it up via the supplied optical cable to the front-bay of my x-fi extrememusic and its burning in as we speak.

Couple of questions tho.. (Ive already checked the x-fi hotrodding topic

) Is there a way to achive _true_ line-out via the optical out ? That means that there is no volume control via windows, just via the Zero ? Ive set "bit-matched" playback, but this only disables the EQ, crystallizer and such. Else I'll just set all my windows volumecontrols to MAX and leave it at that

Im burning it in with the stock opamps, but Ive also received 3x OPA627au's on an adapter. But I'd like to hear the difference when the rest of the DAC is properly burned in.

Im actually a bit unimpressed by the buildquality, especially the volume-knob. I have an Alps Blue in my DYI Gainclone, so maybe I'll remove that Alps from the gainclone, solder it into the Zero and run the Gainclone as a power-amp via the Zero.

 

[Penchum]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif You bet they can. Rough handling in transit can break free borderline joints from the pot casing. Sometimes it's advisable to scratch up the surface on the pot where you want reconnect the ground wire to the pot shell. The scratches help the solder grip the metal better. Sometimes pot casings will have a film or coating of some kind from the manufacturer. When I rewire guitar control bays I always clean the pots back with alcohol wipes to make sure the solder is getting a good surface to mate with. With that 45 watt soldering iron you should be careful how long you have it on the component. Place the soldering iron on the pot first, let it heat for 10 seconds, lay the solder beside the tip on the spot you want solder. When it melts you know the case is hot enough. Get the right amount of solder onto the case quickly. Don't use too much. Just enough to cover the wire nicely. Pull the iron away, let new joint cool. If it's shiny , it's a good joint. Not mirror shiny, slightly shiny is good enough. If it's really dull and any edge looks like its not adhered, than that's most likely a bad or cold solder joint. Cold meaning no electron flow, nothing to do with temp at all Hope this helps a little. Peete.

Thanks PP, you are absolutely correct! Everyone should realize that the Zero's are bench tested before shipping. Shipping, can be a curse and blessing at the same time.

Soldering joints like the one on the side of the pot, are sometimes a problem waiting to happen, after being handled 1/2 way around the world. While my first Zero's was fine, my second one needed to be re-soldered. I could see the solder lifting from one side. Like you said, super easy to fix.

When I first acquired my Pioneer SG-9800 Graphic Equalizer (used) (one of the best ever made), it induced way too much noise into the signal path. I got it up on my bench, took it apart, and went "OW CRAP!" because all of the solder joints were super dull and problematic. I don't know how many connections "died" during shipping, but it must have been a bunch of them. The seller said he had been using it daily, right up to when he packed it for shipping. It didn't matter really. That solder is 33 years old, so it needs to be "refreshed" big time. Looking at the job ahead of me, each frequency has about 12 two pin components that needed to be re-soldered, so that is 12 freq's per channel X 2 channels, about 288 joints per channel, or 576 for the whole thing. I got after it and two weeks later, I bench tested it and it was silent! No more added noise! I was very happy indeed!

Needless to say, I was "up to speed" on my soldering skills after that!!

Now it performs like new and only required me to clean the slider switches and replace one status light to finish it's restoration. It was absolutely worth my time and effort.

 

[windrider]

On dt880s, after trying the opa627/lt1469 for sometime, i finally gave up and settled on lt1364/lt1469.

I really like the sound of opa627/lt1469 more compared to lt1364/lt1469:
- mids are less dry/recessed
- quite abit more airiness
- treble sounds better/more extended treble

However my they make my ears bleed after just a few songs. Sucks to be sensitive to highs yes i know.

Anyone has anything to suggest that might be balance between the 2 combinations mentioned above? I would really like something similar to the opa627/lt1469 sound but with warmer/less harsh highs.

 

[Penchum]

Quote:

Originally Posted by windrider /img/forum/go_quote.gif On dt880s, after trying the opa627/lt1469 for sometime, i finally gave up and settled on lt1364/lt1469. I really like the sound of opa627/lt1469 more compared to lt1364/lt1469: - mids are less dry/recessed - quite abit more airiness - treble sounds better/more extended treble However my they make my ears bleed after just a few songs. Sucks to be sensitive to highs yes i know. Anyone has anything to suggest that might be balance between the 2 combinations mentioned above? I would really like something similar to the opa627/lt1469 sound but with warmer/less harsh highs.

Did you try the LT1361's in the headphone amp, OPA627's in the DAC, combo?
I think someone earlier on said they liked this combo with the DT880's.

 

[windrider]

the lt1361 sounds very good indeed but its even harsher than the lt1364s on the highs; my ears couldnt take them at all.

 

[Penchum]

Quote:

Originally Posted by windrider /img/forum/go_quote.gif the lt1361 sounds very good indeed but its even harsher than the lt1364s on the highs; my ears couldnt take them at all.

Ow, ok.

I don't know if you are at this point or not, but it may be that you need a different headphone for your tastes. Since you have improved your system, it is not unusual for headphone requirements to change. I can vouch for the OPA627's in the DAC, LT1364's in the headphone amp, with HD-650s. They present all the detail and nuances without any harshness at all.

I'm sure some of the other folks will recommend some Opamps to try, but keep this "requirement change" in the back of your mind. If you have a friend with HD-650s, you could "validate" this idea pretty easy by trying his/her HD-650s in your system. They might surprise you more than you think.

I know it is viewed as "taboo" to change headphone camps around here, but that is just plain silly. Your ears should always dictate what headphones you use.

There is nothing worse than "unhappy" ears. Ya can't enjoy anything that way.

 

[windrider]

Yea actually I do want to change headphones but havent found a buyer for the dt880s yet =( I realized the 2nd hand market is kinda small here in Singapore. I guess i should try to sell internationally as well but the shipping costs would probably make it not worth the money for overseas buyers.

I didnt like the hd650 with the stock opamps but i realized how much opamps can affect the sound now. Unfortunately i sold them before i got some of the opamp samples so i didnt get a chance to try them out with some combinations. Nevertheless i'm interested in getting a pair of hd600s instead and see how they would sound with the zero.