[labmat]

Quote:

Originally Posted by steinchen /img/forum/go_quote.gif just finished my beta22 today: front amp board psu not much different from my Dynahi casework except the lightened volume knob, nevertheless, if you are interested and want to see more pictures head over to the gallery of my hp

That thing is Sick!

P.S. I may have to steal the lit volume knob idea

 

[Ferrari]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoundGoon /img/forum/go_quote.gif Ferrari, if you don't mind my asking, how much did this cost to build? and where did you get the cool case?

Since I already have a box of MKC and polystyrene capacitors on hand (bought sometime ago from an electronics parts dump shop for a couple of €

), the total cost of the build was quite reasonable. I don't count it exactly but it should be around €200, enclosure included. The enclosure is indeed from ATI (Thailand).

@Yen
If I can remember the shipment cost to the Netherlands was about €40 for 2 ATI-738 enclosures.

@XFxGeforced
The MKC film caps at the ouput of the MH does make a (big) different in SQ comparing to generic electrolytics capacitors. Besides the tubes- and buffer types, the output capacitors (C7L/R) can make or break the sound of your amp. I have tried several types electrolytics capacitors from different brands (BC, Elna, Nichicon, Black Gate, Panasonic...) but only 2 types: Black Gate NX en Nichicon Muse ES//220nF MKP can deliver fairly good sound to my ear, however they are not at the same level. I know that this is a very sensitive subject and I do belief that the best cap is NO cap, but if when you have to use it, be selective! A good alternative at low cost is Nichicon Muse ES//small MKP cap, I think.

 

[XFxGeforced]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ferrari /img/forum/go_quote.gif Since I already have a box of MKC and polystyrene capacitors on hand (bought sometime ago from an electronics parts dump shop for a couple of € ), the total cost of the build was quite reasonable. I don't count it exactly but it should be around €200, enclosure included. The enclosure is indeed from ATI (Thailand). @Yen If I can remember the shipment cost to the Netherlands was about €40 for 2 ATI-738 enclosures. @XFxGeforced The MKC film caps at the ouput of the MH does make a (big) different in SQ comparing to generic electrolytics capacitors. Besides the tubes- and buffer types, the output capacitors (C7L/R) can make or break the sound of your amp. I have tried several types electrolytics capacitors from different brands (BC, Elna, Nichicon, Black Gate, Panasonic...) but only 2 types: Black Gate NX en Nichicon Muse ES//220nF MKP can deliver fairly good sound to my ear, however they are not at the same level. I know that this is a very sensitive subject and I do belief that the best cap is NO cap, but if when you have to use it, be selective! A good alternative at low cost is Nichicon Muse ES//small MKP cap, I think.

i wouldnt be against replaced the output caps if itll give me a noticeable difference in the quality of the millet, thanks!

 

[HalfTwitch]

I plan on a Mint Amp, here is my Mint case

 

[Xakepa]

Quote:

Originally Posted by MASantos /img/forum/go_quote.gif My PIMETA. Specifications: -Hammond 1455N1201 clear extruded aluminium enclosure. -Alps RK27 Volume pot, aka Alps "Blue" -Elna Cerafine rail capacitors -Wima MKS fast reservoir capacitors -Matched Vishay-Dale resistors -Socketed gain and buffer bandwith resistors, allows easy tuning -Class A biased using matched transistors -1 SMD buffer per channel (bottomside of the board) and 1 DIP8 buffer on the L/R channels -OPAMPS (in order of preference): AD8620/10, OPA637/627, OPA627 AD8066/65, OPA2227/227, OPA2134/134 -Dual RCA inputs using Nkk switch (silver plated contacts) -1/4" Neutrik output jack -Kilo International Volume knob -24AWG Silver plated copper wiring(done on the underside of the board, allows easy access to the board for easy chip rolling) -Silver solder The LED and ON/OFF switch are not perfectly centered because the panel was not well secured and it moved while drilling, but overall I am pleased with the results. The power jack wiring is still temporary because I will install a TREAD power supply to use with a external AC/DC wallwart, but I need to get some mounting hardware from my local store. The panels are not screwed in yet because I aparently lost the screws...

Congrats, Manuel! Enjoy!

Now you have to go for DBs...

 

[SoundGoon]

Ferrari (or anyone else) dumb question time - what is an MH? I thought I knew what it was but I'm not sure

 

[Azure]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoundGoon /img/forum/go_quote.gif Ferrari (or anyone else) dumb question time - what is an MH? I thought I knew what it was but I'm not sure

Millet Hybrid

 

[ggta]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ferrari /img/forum/go_quote.gif If I can remember the shipment cost to the Netherlands was about €40 for 2 ATI-738 enclosures.

Via express mail?

 

[SoundGoon]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azure /img/forum/go_quote.gif Millet Hybrid

Thanks Azure

 

[Ferrari]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ggta /img/forum/go_quote.gif Via express mail?

No, unfortunately not. It was surface shipment and it takes about 7 weeks to arive

. Via express mail you can get it within 1 week but the cost is also higher.

 

[Dave_M]

Seeing some really nice stuff here. Keep it up!

Ferrari, that neutrik headphone socket is a bit ugly. Did you know you can mount it from behind the front pannel?

 

[Ferrari]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave_M /img/forum/go_quote.gif Seeing some really nice stuff here. Keep it up! Ferrari, that neutrik headphone socket is a bit ugly. Did you know you can mount it from behind the front pannel?

Agreed, I know that the Neutrik headphone socket doesn't match well to the overal look of my amp. Mounting from behind is indeed a better option, I will modify it soon when time permits. Next time I will looking for another type headphone socket, probably somthing like the Neutrik NMJ6HC with chrome nose.

 

[adfinni]

Finally fixed my amp after a few teething problems, and modded it whilst it was apart. Here is the amp as i recieved it from 'Tsappis' (many thanks

):

|

Now my mods. I will eventually create a separate thread with more details and a review of it compared to my standard arcam integrated amp used previously

Firstly an overview. You might notice the much redder colour. Cerafine electrolytics, BG standards at C7 bypassed with 1uF NX HI-Q BG's, Wimas, and vishday dale reisitors.

Close up of a BG. Unfortunately the legs are about 10-15mm long, and im not sure if that will have a detremental effect on the sound. THey are too tall to mount vertically without cutting the top panel.

O Look he changed all the LED's to white, so it matches his PC's white cathodes and fans

I have a roughly cut top panel, but will eventually cut tube holes, DB ventilation holes, and possibly holes for the BG's if they stand up. Up until then itl run without a top.

Finally, il be buying a locking neutrik socket as there is an annoying mark above the jack atm which will be covered up by the larger locking sockets surround.

 

[laxx]

wow, those white led's are gorgeous. =]

 

[adfinni]

Quote:

Originally Posted by laxx /img/forum/go_quote.gif wow, those white led's are gorgeous. =]

Cheers mate

Well i built my new pc this september with a black lian-li case, white cathodes, fans, and have replaced the fan controller LED's and Power + HDD LED's with white ones, and wanted my millett to match.

They are simple 3mm white LED's i got off ebay, with a forward voltage of ~3V if i remember correctly. The two front ones on my millett are only recieving 2V and are still brighter than the 5mm white LED's on my PC. Plus the ones under the tubes make the tubes look old withea softer, slightly more yellow light. I couldn't be happier, and am definately having a clear top on the amp now

Here's another view for you: