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All that said, the one you've picked here is not a good choice. First of all, going to 470uf is an easy, inexpensive choice and will insure no loss of bass with almost all cans. However, since you may end up with 1000uf on the back end (above), might as well go for 1000uf up front, too. Neither is the cap quality you selected as good as it can be. A Nichicon UKW is a much better quality cap in this position and is specifically made for Audio:
UKW1J102MHD Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded
As you can see, it's also available at Mouser. |
Tom: Thanks very much for sharing your wisdom. However, none of the ones you linked to are in stock at Mouser. All the UPWs are on order, and the only UKW that they have in stock is this 1000uF (UKW2A102MHD):
UKW2A102MHD Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded
It's rather big (18x40mm) and I'm not sure if I can fit four of these guys in the case I'm planning to use. I guess I should consider a different source for caps at least.
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| First of all, none of us really recommended the Muse ES. Last time I looked, the highest voltage rating they make is 50V. That's not enough unless you want to push the ratings standards around here. The Muse Fine Gold, on the other hand, comes in 63V sizes. I've built one SSMH PCB using the 1000uf 63V Muse FG's (the silver one pictured on Beezar). They are very nice and available at Handmade Electronics. While you have to do some special things to use them on the PCB (no pre-machined Beezar/Hammond custom case is possible), using them with P2P would be a snap. |
I'm confused now: The Muse ES 220uF 16v is what I read in the modified BOM on diyforum, with link to beezar.com, and note in the spreadsheet about also being available from handmade audio. If that's not the correct one to use, perhaps that BOM should be edited?
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| Give us a part number - I'll check. Chances are, it's not worth the trouble. Those things usually have an LED dropping resistor already installed, but set for a voltage that's far different than the SSMH. By the time you added another dropping resistor, chances are you'll exceed the current capacity of the recommended Cisco power supply. |
Sorry - scratch that. The switch needs a rectangular cutout. I don't think I want that challenge for the SSMH. Will go for the rocker switch on the bom.
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| It's a funny psychology when you see people that will pay $hundreds for parts and not another $5-$7 for shipping. Or, complain when that shipping is $2-$3 higher than they think it should be when the shipper has to deliver them to the Post Office, provide boxes and packing, and or includes delivery confirmation and insurance - there's no logic to it, quite frankly. |
I completely understand what you're saying, but my POV is, as a consumer, I need to look at the total cost, because all of it come out of my wallet. It's simply that paying $7 S&H for $3 worth of parts seems rather silly, not that the $7 S&H isn't justified, but the fact that the total cost is $10 instead of $3. I think someone had brought this up before: Even with Pete's original BOM, if the parts are obtained from 3 or more sources, the S&H becomes a significant portion of the total cost for this starving student budget amp.
My plan for the 2nd SSMH is to push the SQ as far as sensible for this design. I originally was going to get the caps and resistors from ether Michael Percy Audio or Handmade Audio, but after reading one of Tom's post about the SSMH build from the modified BOM being superior to one built from boutique parts, I decided to follow the modified BOM. If I can't get the caps from mouser (within reasonable time, at least), I guess I have to split the order up. If anyone has suggestions on where/what to get for the caps, I'd appreciate it. Also, any recommendation on the wires? I used cat5e cables on my first build, but found the insulation too easily melted when soldering.
