[ninjikiran]

Clean the sound?  Digtal Audio(PC/Game Console) ----> DAC(converts to headphone readable sound).  Basically your audio atm is going through the same process the maverick would put you though just on different levels of quality.
 
Regardless I assume you want to lower the bass?  You could try tuning the equalizer on your sound card control panel.

 

[Rakim360]

Actually I want to boost the bass, I just don't want it to sound as muddy as it does through the crushers since the 595s are a far superior set of cans albeit without the dedicated subwoofer. I thought I migh be able to achieve a similar if not as dramatic effect with a DAC. While I can use the sound card features of the XFI card during pc based gaming and audio requirements the suggestion of adjusting the bass on the sound card itself leaves me no option while console gaming. Ultimately what I hope to accomplish is a nominal bass increase on my 595s even if it's not as substantial as the bass on the skullcrushers due to the dedicated subwoofer in the skullcrusher cans,and if I am able to also Increase the sound of midrange audio such as voice etc all in one solution then I would be well taken care of, and my final question is do you guys think the maverick DAC Can achieve this or maybe yoANCan reccomend another type of fix or set up tweak that would be beneficial to me again thanks for the input, it's very much appreciated! Actually maybe what I need is a headphone amp maybe?

 

[ninjikiran]

No stand alone DAC/Amp can achieve the kind of substantial benefit you desire.  Headphone choice will on the other hand(check out the DT770 Pro/80ohm), I own the 250ohm version and the bass is VERY strong to the point of me feeling it without being muddy and drab.
 
Another option is to buy a receiver with built in equalizer functionality, you can connect your PC and game consoles to it.  Though they have questionable DACS for their headphone outputs usually so you might still need a DAC just for the sake of having a decent one.
 
Your last option is to buy a butt kicker http://www.buttkickergear.com/ButtKicker_Gamer_p/bk-gr.htm, while definitely not for me you will more than likely feel every jolt and bump.
 
Just thought I would chime in on another option which might be a little more complicated, you can connect your 360 via the Line-In on your sound card(the Digital-In is also an option).  I don't know how this will effect SQ though...

 

[Ultrainferno]

Hello everyone,
 
Reading these 97 pages sure took me some time! I’m completely new in the world of amps but after reading all this I must say I learned a lot! There’s still tons of posts I don’t get at all about the opamps, resistors, etc. but I’m sure more reading about it will be the answer.
 
I’m very interested in getting the D1 but I till have some questions, hope you guys can help me out. I understood the gain problem has been solved for the sensitive and low impedance. I didn’t see any new complaints…I plan on using it with different kinds of headphones going from M50 to dt880 – 600 and DT990 – 250 and more...
 
1. I don’t plan on touching anything inside the D1. Things start to break when I pick up a screwdriver, so soldering stuff would probably set the house on fire. I just hope the D1 will be good enough for the Beyers and other headphones out of the box? You guys got me scared with all the switching of the components.
 
2. What would be the best way to hook the D1 up?
 
CD -> Kenwood receiver > Maverick -> Headphones
CD -> RCA splitter -> Maverick -> Headphones
CD -> RCA splitter -> Maverick -> Tube out -> Kenwood Receiver -> Headphones
 (with the splitter I can still use the cd without the D1. For the misses )
 
I’d like it to be option 3 so I could get a first hear of a tube sound but I don’t know if a Kenwood receiver can be used as the 2^nd amp?
 
3. I understood as well that the tube out can only be used for powered speakers? So no chance they could power my Classic 90s B&W DM610 speakers directly out of the tube out? Specs can be found here:
 
http://users.telenet.be/iris.melon/Lieven/B&W_610.jpg
 
4. Could anyone post a picture of the power cord for European market? It might be a weird question but the European iBasso connectors don’t work here, the plugs are different so I can only power it via usb. Or could I just buy a standard power cable for the D1 here at a local shop? (Maybe I’ll just mail Ryan)
 
Sorry for all the questions. I tried to be as clear as possible (hope i didn't say anything too stupid). Hopefully someone wants to help me out, after all I did read your 97 pages
 
thanks!

 

[Rakim360]

Thank you for the advice i will research the cans you recommended as well as the buttkicker i am off to check them out now!

 

[JustVisit]

Hey Ultrainferno,
 
Let me try to answer your questions:
 
1) D1 will be good enough for most headphones out of box. You don't need to open the case of D1 to do modification
2) The best connection method will be:
 
CD -- via optical or coaxial cable --> D1 --  via analog RCA analog cable to normal analog output and tube pre output --> Kenwood Receiver (for 2 channel stereo)
 
The most important part is to get the digital audio input into the D1, only via digital audio input, you will be able to use the "professional D/A converting" in the D1.
I assume your kenwood should have multiple analog inputs, you can connect both the normal analog out and tube preamp outputs  to your Kenwood, and you can simply change audio input in the kenwood to switch between solid state output and tube preamp output.
I will recommend you to connect your headphone directly into the D1, since D1 has a dedicate headphone amp circuit which is very good.
 
3) If you use the connection method I recommended in 2), you will be able to connect your B&W directly to your kenwood receiver. Just switch the audio input to the tube preamp input.
 
4) D1 uses standard computer power cord (the same power cord uses in your desktop computer). You will have no problem finding a spare in your closet to use with the D1
 
Let me know if you have any other question

 

[Ultrainferno]

Thanks for replying Ryan, I will order one.
Anyone interested in a group buy?

 

[SuperSizeThis]

Hey guys, just curious if anyone has ever paired the D1 with some Shure SRH840's, If so, what were the results? Good/bad combo?

 

[Barthandelus]

what is the difference between this product and Grant Fidelity's ? http://grantfidelity.com/site/Grant_Fidelity_Tube_DAC-09
 
 

 

[Ultrainferno]

It's answered somewhere in the 98 pages, the search function might help you. I got an answer to your question in the top 5 results
 
But hey I'm a nice guy so here's the short version: basically it is the same thing as the Grant Fidelity Tube DAC 09 and most likely the Xiang Sheng Dac-01. More details? Read the tread

 

[Noobiiee]

any1 in the UK bought this dac/amp yet? I'm considering getting one of these but the tax is really putting me off. 

 

[Barthandelus]

I just figured that it might be better to go with Grant Fidelity version of this since shipping is free (probably faster too since they're N.A. based), saves 20 bucks
 
The faceplate definitely is different. Other than that, I don't observe any differences

 

[ninjikiran]

Shipping is only $15(New York) so you still save more money...(w/ shipping $215-$230).  DHL is relatively quick, anywhere between 4 days - 1 week based on experience overseas.  Really depends on what day you order(given time difference) and how much of a pain customs wants to be.
 
Based on what others have said in terms of AQ they are basically the same, but I can't vouch for that since I only own a maverick.

 

[taylor]

I tried changing the headphone amp gain. I placed a 5.92Kohm resistor in one, and a 5.62Kohm resistor in the other, both in series with the existing 30Kohm resistors,
 
I didn't realize that two were neccessary, so when I ordered from Parts Connexion, I got one resistor in each increment, for a total of about ten resistors, to try swapping it out. Luckily, I had ordered like 3k, 5.6, 5.9, 7k, 9k, 11k, and 13k, because I figured the 'sweet spot' would be 4k-6k, so I had two relatively closely matched ones. It took me a long time to find R55, since it's by the two big caps, and I was looking for it to be right next to R54 near the op-amp. At first, I just replaced R54, and was getting one channel with much lower gain than the other.
 
It seems to have killed off most of the hissing and scratching noise. I was listening at about 7:45 on the volume knob, now I'm up to 9:00 or 9:30. I probably should order a pair of matched 3.6k resistors and just replace them outright. I ordered from Parts Connexion, and the $5 surcharge on orders under $25 just plain sucks. My $0.30 resistors turned into $10 resistors after shipping.

 

[Nakattack]

Most stepped attenuators have issues such as your hissing and scratching, and also channel imbalance until around 8-9 o'clock. My unit only has slight channel imbalance till around 8 o'clock, which isn't too bad. Lowering the gain is probably necessary if you are listening at 7 o'clock. Noone here has tried the Mav with a high-impedance phone yet, hopefully I have enough birthday money coming in to be the first!