[jazzwave]

I bought 2 of these.



Anyone speculate they may be fake? It sounds better over the stock opamps...



http://www.ebay.ca/itm/171386346993?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

 


If sound better than the stock, congratulation you bought good product and cheap..

 

[sizzlincok]

But then I'll never know how OPA627 truely sound. LOL

 

[jazzwave]

I bought new DAC that has twice price than my old Maverick D1 (OPA627,tube upgraded).......for my stereo set (D1+300B tube amp+speaker),The source is SqueezeBox Touch.
 
I did comparation after new DAC 50 reach hours burn in. I don't believe Maverick deliver better sound (my taste), darker, well defined instrument separation, new DAC has slighly wider soundstage.
 
But most important to me listening my 3 years old Maverick combine with Tungsol 6SUGTY Black glass on my amp more enjoyable.
I always smile when listening music through this set and said to myself...my old friend still deliver good job..
 
Again, the keyword are: system synergi, taste, and budget...
 
~ronni~

 

[sizzlincok]

So I just upgraded to the D1 PLUS.

I opened it up and found 3 OPAMPS. 2x LF353N, and 1x OPA2604.

The LF353N is for the headphone out and the both tube/regular output.

The OPA2604, seems to be for the input/dac, however if I take the opamp out, the audio still runs, but at a slightly reduced volume.

Shouldn't the audio stop if there's no opamp for the input/dac?

 

[VTHokie83]

sizzlincok (I won't ask about your post name)
 
I have a suspicion, but I will not share it as I don't want to give you false information. I would contact Ryan at Maverick Audio, to get specific technical data.....he has always been very open and helpful when I have reached out to him, and he has always gotten back to me quickly. You can reach Ryan at:
 
Email: info@mav-audio.com
Web request: http://mav-audio.com/support/index.php?_m=tickets&_a=submit
 
Let us know what you find out

 

[sizzlincok]

I prefer not to as to be honest kind of lazy to send him a message.

I just stuck my OPA627 in the output and input opamp slots and called it a day.

 

[jazzwave]

Please confirm,
Change two LF353N Opamp to OPA627 will be impact to SQ of Headphone and RCA.
Change tube only impact to RCA pre-output only not headphone ouput.

I ask because not clear what function of this OPAMP and Tube in Maverick D1.
Currently I'm using D1 as headphone amp only (use other DAC as input).

DELL->"Other DAC"->Line input D1 -> Headphone output->HD-600


Appriciate if somebody ( Ryan perhaps) can brief me.

regards
~ron~

 

[superbart]

Hello. I'm not sure if it is an answer but this is what Ryan said:
The headphone output on the D1 Plus will not go through the tube. You will hear "solid state" sound if connecting the headphones to the D1.

If you use the tube pre-out on the back of the D1 to your amplifier, you will get "tube flavored" sound ( as well as the enhancement brought from the D/A conversion in the D1). .

 

[jazzwave]

Hello. I'm not sure if it is an answer but this is what Ryan said:

The headphone output on the D1 Plus will not go through the tube. You will hear "solid state" sound if connecting the headphones to the D1.



If you use the tube pre-out on the back of the D1 to your amplifier, you will get "tube flavored" sound ( as well as the enhancement brought from the D/A conversion in the D1). .

 


Noted, I enjoyed tubey sound from RCA pre-out (feed to amp+speaker).

So Opamp replacement will improve Headphone output, right?

~ron~

 

[jazzwave]

I don't have outdoor activity during winter.. so let's open D1 casing, tube rolling time...!
The existing tube is GE JAN 5670W , what upgraded tube you sugest to replace JAN 5670W ?

Is WE2C51 better? I love warm, melow tube tone but need detail as well..

~ron~

 

[sizzlincok]

All the questions are answered on the FAQ and INFO page.

http://www.head-fi.org/t/470639/maverick-audio-tubemagic-d1-dac-amp-condensed-faq-and-info-thread

I don't have outdoor activity during winter.. so let's open D1 casing, tube rolling time...!

The existing tube is GE JAN 5670W , what upgraded tube you sugest to replace JAN 5670W ?



Is WE2C51 better? I love warm, melow tube tone but need detail as well..



~ron~

 

 

[VTHokie83]

Jazzwave,
 
Sizzlincock is absolutely correct, that thread has a ton of information available on tube and opamp rolling. My only issue is that there are nearly 2600 posts to sift through, and some of the replies are in regards to older equipment which may not now be rolling off of the assembly line now. The standard upgrade tube that Maverick is supplying in the D1 and D2 is a 1970s GE black plate "O" getter. It is an excellent all around tube with no major flaws, it does everything well across the board and most people will not feel the need to upgrade this tube.
 
I am not that person, and I have tried many tubes in my D2.....most of which I tried and later sold back on eBay, the ones I've kept are:
 
(First place tie) Made in New Jersey Bendix 2C51 (1960s) or 6385 (1950s) - Both tubes involved me in the music and delivered terrific bass, and class leading all around performance in my system and great sound stage. The 1950s 6385 is clearly the best of the two (and would be my "cost no object" tube), but at $150 to $400 PER TUBE cost is an object for me....I loved it and sold it. It delivers what other tubes in this class do not, deep/defined/detailed bass. The 2C51 has most of the terrific traits of the 6385, but loses the magic of the bass and seems to have a slight "hole" in the midrange as well. The 6385 is the best tube available in this line, but is insanely expensive. The 2C51 is a hair below or equivalent to the Sylvania, and at $40 to $80 per tube is in the reach of many of us.
 
(First place tie) Sylvania Gold Series GB5670 or 5670WA (both early 1960s) - Better or equal to the GE in most respects, more punchy and defined bass without becoming "muddy", highs are very detailed but not annoying.....not able to pinpoint why, but got me much more involved in the music. Cost $25 to $40 per tube, and a bargain at that price.
 
(First place tie) Western Electric WE396A 1950s vinatage - I tried two of these tubes, one from the early 1950s and one from the late 1950s. Both were incredible when they were "on" even pushing the Bendix 6385, but are "finicky" in that they do not sound the same on all source material. I am not sure if that is a flaw in the musicality, or if it is more related to the fact that they can be noisy and are not "black" in the background. NOTE: I still own the tubes and will spend more time in the future trying to figure that issue out.
 
Hope that gives some help from another review.

 

[jazzwave]

Jazzwave,


 


Sizzlincock is absolutely correct, that thread has a ton of information available on tube and opamp rolling. My only issue is that there are nearly 2600 posts to sift through, and some of the replies are in regards to older equipment which may not now be rolling off of the assembly line now. The standard upgrade tube that Maverick is supplying in the D1 and D2 is a 1970s GE black plate "O" getter. It is an excellent all around tube with no major flaws, it does everything well across the board and most people will not feel the need to upgrade this tube.


 


I am not that person, and I have tried many tubes in my D2.....most of which I tried and later sold back on eBay, the ones I've kept are:


 


(First place tie) Made in New Jersey Bendix 2C51 (1960s) or 6385 (1950s) - Both tubes involved me in the music and delivered terrific bass, and class leading all around performance in my system and great sound stage. The 1950s 6385 is clearly the best of the two (and would be my "cost no object" tube), but at $150 to $400 PER TUBE cost is an object for me....I loved it and sold it. It delivers what other tubes in this class do not, deep/defined/detailed bass. The 2C51 has most of the terrific traits of the 6385, but loses the magic of the bass and seems to have a slight "hole" in the midrange as well. The 6385 is the best tube available in this line, but is insanely expensive. The 2C51 is a hair below or equivalent to the Sylvania, and at $40 to $80 per tube is in the reach of many of us.


 


(First place tie) Sylvania Gold Series GB5670 or 5670WA (both early 1960s) - Better or equal to the GE in most respects, more punchy and defined bass without becoming "muddy", highs are very detailed but not annoying.....not able to pinpoint why, but got me much more involved in the music. Cost $25 to $40 per tube, and a bargain at that price.


 


(First place tie) Western Electric WE396A 1950s vinatage - I tried two of these tubes, one from the early 1950s and one from the late 1950s. Both were incredible when they were "on" even pushing the Bendix 6385, but are "finicky" in that they do not sound the same on all source material. I am not sure if that is a flaw in the musicality, or if it is more related to the fact that they can be noisy and are not "black" in the background. NOTE: I still own the tubes and will spend more time in the future trying to figure that issue out.


 


Hope that gives some help from another review.

 



VTHokie83,
Thanks for your kindness by provide us good information.
I saw in eBay WE 2C51/396A cost $16/pc, I'm not sure this tube better than GE JAN 5670W .
But based on your information, for budget under $50 prefer Sylvania Gold Series GB5670 or 5670WA (both early 1960s)

~ron~

 

[sizzlincok]

I agree that there is too much information to go through. However, a simple Google search for "best 5670/2c51/6n3p tube" or something along those lines will give results.
That's how I found information fast and efficiently because there are other people out there who has asked the same questions over and over. 
 
The MHDT Paradisea DAC uses the 5670/2c51/6n3p tube, so if you want more information look into that DAC as a cross reference for tubes.
 
http://dhost.info/mhdtlab/tube.htm
 
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=5796460&postcount=5
 
1st class,

WE396A (D getter, JW Military version)
WE2C51 (D getter, JW Military version)
Bendix 6385 (expensive)
Tesla 6CC42 (D getter, rare but sometimes will show up in the market)
JJ 6386 (expensive, new production)

2nd class,
 

WE396A/2C51 (O getter)
Tesla 6CC42 (O getter, rare but sometimes will show up in the market)
Tung-sol 2C51 (they invent this tube, 1950s, D getter)
Raytheon CK5670 (1950s, D getter)
RCA 5670 (1950s, D/Plate 2 supporting rod getter)
GE 5670 (3 mica structure, mostly 5 stars tube)

 
3rd class, (after 1960s)

GE 5670
RCA 5670
Tung-sol 5670
Sylvania 2C51
Sylvania 5670 (sometimes marked Mullard)
RTC 5670
Philips 2C51

  
4th class,

Russian and Chinese 6N3P, -E, -EB, -EV 

 

[jazzwave]

sizzlinko,
Thanks fior the summary .I will visit eBay to find 2C51.