Maverick Audio DAC/Amp
May 29, 2010 at 9:07 AM Post #1,501 of 2,660
I'll never get used to that bad Japanese humor
rolleyes.gif

 
May 29, 2010 at 12:30 PM Post #1,502 of 2,660

Quote:
 
Any idea how i can make the headphone out (a whole lot) warmer with more bass?


I agree with you that the headphone amp is just so-so...
 
wait for his new headphone tube amp to be out and get it!
 
Maverick D1 is an all-rounder just that its weakest link happened to be its headphone out.
 
May 29, 2010 at 12:58 PM Post #1,503 of 2,660


Quote:
I agree with you that the headphone amp is just so-so...
 
wait for his new headphone tube amp to be out and get it!
 
Maverick D1 is an all-rounder just that its weakest link happened to be its headphone out.


Good idea. but how the hell am i going to sell that idea to the misses :D
 
May 29, 2010 at 11:29 PM Post #1,504 of 2,660
May 30, 2010 at 2:28 AM Post #1,505 of 2,660


Quote:
Good idea. but how the hell am i going to sell that idea to the misses :D


You mean sell that idea to the 'masses'?
 
Hmm I know that Ryan marketed his Maverick D1 as a DAC with a Tube Pre-out so those two are definitely the strength of this unit. Considering Maverick as a standalone DAC for this price and quality, it is already a steal. Though I would rate the quality of the headphone amp as 'so-so', that is because I'm comparing it to the higher end dedicated headphone amplifier. =)
 
I am using OPA627 as my headphone out op-amp and it smoothens out the sound. The sound produced by the stock op-amp is too bright for me. You can try LT1364CN8 and LM4562NA op-amp as well. They are one of the few ways you can alter the sound for the headphone out on your maverick d1 without spending money to get another headphone amp. 
 
I don't really have any issue with bass. Songs reproduced well with all the bass in it.
I dont quite understand why you would complain about it sounding too loud since there is a volume control dial. 
o2smile.gif

 
Anyway the DP by currawong displays a chinese calligraphy. It is no way Japanese. Hahaha.
 
May 30, 2010 at 7:44 AM Post #1,506 of 2,660
Thanks for the info Uelover. I'm gonna read the condensed FAQ again as well, i'm sure there's some solutions there as well.
Btw, I never complained it sounded too loud, just high and not warm like my amp :wink:
 
May 30, 2010 at 11:21 AM Post #1,507 of 2,660

Quote:
Thanks for the info Uelover. I'm gonna read the condensed FAQ again as well, i'm sure there's some solutions there as well.
Btw, I never complained it sounded too loud, just high and not warm like my amp :wink:


Yeah spanky did a good job there in the condensed FAQ. He recabled the pretube out to the headphone output but that would imply that you gotta forfeit the pre-tube out to your speaker.
 
I guess changing the op-amp is what you need at the moment. =)
 
May 31, 2010 at 12:27 PM Post #1,508 of 2,660
Reading on swapping the opamp now, but I'm curious, is it just a pull and replace chip or is it soldered (or fixed somehow)into the unit? 
 
May 31, 2010 at 9:43 PM Post #1,509 of 2,660


Quote:
Quote:

Yeah spanky did a good job there in the condensed FAQ. He recabled the pretube out to the headphone output but that would imply that you gotta forfeit the pre-tube out to your speaker.
 
I guess changing the op-amp is what you need at the moment. =)


Glad you like the thread :) I actually haven't modified anything in the D1 aside from the opamps. I'm very curious to see how well the synergy is with the new tube amp.

 
Quote:
Reading on swapping the opamp now, but I'm curious, is it just a pull and replace chip or is it soldered (or fixed somehow)into the unit? 


Just pull it straight out. It's not secured but on some of the older units the opamps were soldered into the PCB, removed, sockets were soldered in and then the opamps into the sockets. Because of this, there may be some slight bending or solder residue on the pins which may offer more resistance but just pull, nothing should be damaged. If you're careful or don't care about the stock opamps, use a pair of needle-nose pliers.
 
May 31, 2010 at 11:50 PM Post #1,510 of 2,660


Quote:
 
Anyway the DP by currawong displays a chinese calligraphy. It is no way Japanese. Hahaha.

 
My avatar?  Calligraphed by the founder of Aikido. 
smile.gif

 
 
Jun 1, 2010 at 2:16 AM Post #1,511 of 2,660
Japan has borrowed chinese characters since it was first created. It is called Kanji. That one means light, which you would also know, as most of the characters still retain the same meaning.
 
Jun 3, 2010 at 5:50 PM Post #1,514 of 2,660
Received mine today and it's easily the most notable improvement in sound. Hearing sounds that were in the recording, but hidden before. Bass is more...um...I'm not sure how to describe it. It thumps but not obnoxiously so and just sounds sort of there if that makes sense. Sound is fantastic even with most of the 200-300 range of kbps MP3s I have. I tested analogue out of my CD player and I'll certainly need to grab an optical cord at some point as the sound is barely different through that medium than it was on my iMac.
 
Really happy with the purchase.
 
Jun 5, 2010 at 12:34 AM Post #1,515 of 2,660
Does anyone else have problems with their D1 when switching digital inputs?
 
It seems to take a considerable amount of time to switch. I have two PCs connected, one with USB and one with optical SPDIF. When I switch over to the optical one, it takes a minute or so for it to pick up the signal. When I switch back to USB, it plays everything at twice the normal speed, and makes the same noise that shuffling a deck of cards makes. Pulling out the USB cable and plugging it back in fixed it, but it definitely bothers me that switching inputs is so difficult for this thing. I should not have to be unplugging the DAC, turning it on and off, or disconnecting and reconnecting cables just to switch from one input to another. That's what the Source knob is supposed to do.
 
Any ideas on how to fix this?
 

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