[zibra]

thats interesting, thank you. Ill think about it. I dont want to loose added warmth as I have quite bright headphones, but any advice for transparent and smooth highs is welcome. I just sacrifice matrix as experimental headamp

 

[Mad Max]

 
Quote:

 
... Do remove the input capacitors (the big blue boxes and the corresponding little red bypass caps) and close the circuit with a wire. I'm surprised it seems that so few people have done this because the increase in transparency is more than any op-amp change will do. The stock caps really add a lot of warmth up the sound, so you will need to adjust other parts of the circuit if you like the slight warmness of the stock M-Stage. Make sure your source has no DC offset though - otherwise your headphones go "poof".

I have to leave mine in, FFFFFFF-
I think you mentioned alternatives to those big caps at some time in this massive thread?

 

[zibra]

so that big blue boxed caps changed in my matrix  by other are INPUT caps right? I have good friend of mine who said he also removed bypass while changing those caps but didnt go in details with it. So what do you reccomend now? removing even these new boxed caps? what else for significant change?

 

[purrin]

 
Quote:

I think you mentioned alternatives to those big caps at some time in this massive thread?

 
For the big caps, you can try some low ESRs: Panny FC, FM or Illinois Capacitor. For the six medium sized PS caps, I suspect you can try Elna Silmics to warm up sound (although I never did this with the M-Stage). I really don't think cap upgrades make as much as a difference as op-amp changes. Some cap changes can really screw up the sound though. On my unit, I simply bypassed the PS caps with small WIMAs soldered on the back of the board.
 
Quote:

so that big blue boxed caps changed in my matrix  by other are INPUT caps right? I have good friend of mine who said he also removed bypass while changing those caps but didnt go in details with it. So what do you reccomend now? removing even these new boxed caps? what else for significant change?

Here you go - what I did to the input caps:
 
http://www.head-fi.org/gallery/image/view/id/44034
 
If you absolutely need the input caps C21/C22, you can try fitting in some boutique caps like Sonicaps or even the cheap cylindrical Daytons from Parts Express, and just remove the bypass caps in C23/C24. I've never liked boxed caps for DC filtering on inputs.
 
After I replaced the input caps with wire, I just plugged in LM4562 into class A to warm the sound back up. Overall the end result was still slightly warm sounding, but not as warm as the stock - which was my desire anyways.
 

 

[Mad Max]

I meant the input caps.  Sonicaps, eh?

 

[zibra]

so generally what was the biggest improvement with removing these caps? better soundstage, transparency or what?

 

[purrin]

Transparency, which means soundstage too.

 

[reiserFS]

Just some head ups for users that use a HDAM in their M-Stage: Try soldering a 1uF 250v cap (used mundorf in my case) between the V- and V+, you'll be amazed how it literally transforms it into a beast.

 

[clams]

Quote:

Just some head ups for users that use a HDAM in their M-Stage: Try soldering a 1uF 250v cap (used mundorf in my case) between the V- and V+, you'll be amazed how it literally transforms it into a beast.

DId you have any problems fitting the HDAM in after you did this? Also was this the Audio-GD HDAM, and if so, which one?
 
 

 

[Xymordos]

I'm planning to get a Mono to Dual adapter and put some OPA128sm in
But Farnells out of stock...

 

[reiserFS]

I did this for a friend of mine, and there was still enough space available since the cap is pretty small (used a 400v one instead of 250v). Yes, I'm talking about the Audio-GD HDAMs. I can post a picture with detailed instructions if you're interested.
 
Quote:

Quote:
DId you have any problems fitting the HDAM in after you did this? Also was this the Audio-GD HDAM, and if so, which one?
 
 

 
 

 

[clams]

Quote:

I did this for a friend of mine, and there was still enough space available since the cap is pretty small (used a 400v one instead of 250v). Yes, I'm talking about the Audio-GD HDAMs. I can post a picture with detailed instructions if you're interested.
 


 
 

That'd be great if you could! PM me or even post it in here as I'm sure others may find it useful. Is this mod compatible with all of the HDAM models (I have SUN and MOON but not earth)? Thanks!
 
 

 

[reiserFS]

I'm crossposting this from the Zero DAC thread. Yes, it's compatible with all HDAM modules. I recommend you to remove the poly box caps.
 

 

 
Quote:

Quote:
That'd be great if you could! PM me or even post it in here as I'm sure others may find it useful. Is this mod compatible with all of the HDAM models (I have SUN and MOON but not earth)? Thanks!
 
 

 
 

 

[Sganzerla]

Dear reiserFS,
 
 I have some questions, hope you don't mind answering here on the topic, there may be other people who don't have knowledge in DIY (like me) reading this.
 
 Could you please post another picture showing exaclty the points where the cap is soldered?
 Would you describe what happens to the sound after this mod?
 Is there any difference between 250v caps or higher? And about these poly box caps?
 
 I don't really know what cap to buy on eBay, it looks like PIO are the choice for audio, correct? Would someone please recommend some sellers?

 

[Dubwisee57]

Hello there !
 
Bad news, my M-Stage seems to be broken..
My left channel doesn't work anymore, i try different gain settings and it changes nothing. The only sound i get is an awful crackling !
 
Me and my 701 are crying right now, i'm really disgusted. (Fortunately, i've got my Marantz amplifer to use my cans..)