[Dept_of_Alchemy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimSmiley /img/forum/go_quote.gif Is there any sonic difference between the Mullard 8100 (EF95) and the Mullard 8161 (EF92). Has anyone compared these? I see some praise for the 8161, but I'd rather not use that tiny jumper with my sausage link fingers.

The M8161 sounds very different than the M8100. The M8161 is closer to warm-neutral while the M8100 has a very nice albeit slightly heavy-handed emphasis on bass frequencies. Might want to make sure to get the tubes with the Mullard shields printed on them, branded Mullards are generally better sounding for whatever reason.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Penchum /img/forum/go_quote.gif What do you think of them? [RCA Commands]

I loved the RCA 6AK5 for jazz and classical music although I can hardly hear a difference with the Command version. Whereas the different versions of GE tubes like 5 Star and Mobile Audio all have distinctive sonic characteristics, which is kind of weird but fun to experience.

 

[Mike_TNT]

Quote:

Originally Posted by batmanwcm /img/forum/go_quote.gif Nice, I have the Mullard M8161's sitting in my closet as I'm waiting for my stock tubes to burn in. I have high expectations for the 8161's now.

I just received my pair of 8161's today and they're just like ricco said even without much burn in. Another strong point they have is that they mesh with my Grados so much better than the stock tubes. The only problem was trying to fish out some loose jumpers from the LD before I got them right.

Edit: Holy smokes. Penchum was right. These are getting better by the hour.

 

[Tech2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by crewpsu /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hello everyone, Recently just bought a mkIII off of the forsale section here. Before I start getting into tube rolling with this amp I have a question. How important is it to buy tubes that are "matched" for this amp? I see several auctions on ebay for tubes that seem to be recommended in this thread and wanted to know if I should pass and wait for a "matched" pair to come along or if buying two tubes (as long as they are the same brand/model) would be ok. Thank you for your time, Crew

I'll add my two cents:

There is no way, none, that I would spend $40 + shipping for a 'matched' pair of driver tubes on ebay. I think that one ebay seller in particular is trying to take full advantage of the new wave of LD amp users by charging what I consider to be ridiculous prices for pairs.

I have only used unmatched NOS pairs and they have performed flawlessly for me. Of course, the value is in the ear of the beholder and therefore YMMV.

 

[JimSmiley]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dept_of_Alchemy /img/forum/go_quote.gif The M8161 sounds very different than the M8100. The M8161 is closer to warm-neutral while the M8100 has a very nice albeit slightly heavy-handed emphasis on bass frequencies. Might want to make sure to get the tubes with the Mullard shields printed on them, branded Mullards are generally better sounding for whatever reason.

Thanks Dept of Alchemy. That's what I needed to know.

 

[Dept_of_Alchemy]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tech2 /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'll add my two cents: There is no way, none, that I would spend $40 + shipping for a 'matched' pair of driver tubes on ebay. I think that one ebay seller in particular is trying to take full advantage of the new wave of LD amp users by charging what I consider to be ridiculous prices for pairs.

At least for the M8161, tubedepot.com is selling theirs at $29.95 PER TUBE (M8161 / 6065), so the ebay prices for a matched pair at 50% discount seems reasonable IMO. For the performance gain I'd spend the money on tubes than interconnects anyday, but that's a whole 'nother can of worms.

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Penchum /img/forum/go_quote.gif Honestly, I'm not sure. I saw a matched pair for sale once on eBay, but I haven't seen any since then. I'd sure like to try a set, if they exist!

Me too bro........I'm looking around for a set as we speak. Those funky Russian NOS rectifiers came today (4 x 5U4G made in Nov 1960 for 7 bucks ea.). They are a marked improvement in dynamics in terms of leading edge transient speed (over the stock Shugang 274B) with even fuller bass.....my god it's an embarrassment of riches, so to speak, around here these days

Major smilies....

E, I scored a Jan-VT244 Ken Rad 5U4G for 75 bucks (ouch), I just can't help myself........VISA needs to take my card away

Sheesh I could have bought the Zero by now......

Peete.

 

[oatmeal769]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dept_of_Alchemy /img/forum/go_quote.gif ... I'd spend the money on tubes than interconnects anyday...:

Yeah, I'd agree that bang for buck is better spent on tubes. <TANGENT>Funny though, I just upgraded my interconnects to a set of Zu's, and the difference is noticeable. It certainly isn't 'night and day' or even large, but there is definitely some more clarity.

I also think this could have to do with the fact that the Zu's are about 12 inches long, and the cheapie no name I was using was about 5 feet. I don't buy into cables making huge differences, but - especially at line signal levels - good and short connections do make a difference.</TANGENT>

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ethebull /img/forum/go_quote.gif Matched vs. not matched… I’ve bought or traded for more than my fair share of tubes, mostly out of curiosity. What do they sound like? Are these the hidden gem I’ve been seeking?… So I’ve collected about 12 or so varieties of driver tubes. As Penchum says, it all depends on the price and the tube. If you are buying a tube just to check it out, with no particular confidence that this is the premium tube you plan to stick with for a majority of your listening, buying tested, NOS, un-matched has served me very well. Nearly all of the tubes I’ve bought this way have cost $2-6 each, including shipping, buying in a quantity of 4-10. If you really dig them you’ve got spares, and/or you’ve got a few to trade.

You have a talent for sniffing out bargoons E !!!

Peete

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by oatmeal769 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Yeah, I'd agree that bang for buck is better spent on tubes. <TANGENT>Funny though, I just upgraded my interconnects to a set of Zu's, and the difference is noticeable. It certainly isn't 'night and day' or even large, but there is definitely some more clarity. I also think this could have to do with the fact that the Zu's are about 12 inches long, and the cheapie no name I was using was about 5 feet. I don't buy into cables making huge differences, but - especially at line signal levels - good and short connections do make a difference.</TANGENT>

Good quality cable, well shielded always helps. Length doesn't matter all that much unless the cables are crap...then it doesn't matter anyway

You get anything in the mail yet Oatmeal ?

Peete.

 

[oatmeal769]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif You get anything in the mail yet Oatmeal ? Peete.

Went looking for presents today but no dice, LOL Tomorrow though...

 

[Pricklely Peete]

Quote:

Originally Posted by oatmeal769 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Went looking for presents today but no dice, LOL Tomorrow though...

Bummer, hopefully Thursday at the latest.

Crankin' some MUSE-Absolution at the moment

(doing the yellow gumby nod).

Peete.

 

[dr dougie]

I finally tried replacing the 6n6p power tubes with some 6cg7 tubes - which have the same pin layout and are supposed to be the closest Western equivalent. They were unexciting GE Jan brand with no shield plates.

First off. They work! And they sounded ok for the brief time I listened with them, not quite as good as the stock ones. They are new however and certainly not going to be the best of that tube type.

The bad news is the filaments were glowing a little too bright and they obviously run hotter than the 6n6p. I didn't have a problem for the 10 minutes they were in but don't recommend trying it with the stock LD III. It seems a resistor change as per the 6h30 might be in order.

 

[oatmeal769]

Quote:

Originally Posted by dr dougie /img/forum/go_quote.gif I finally tried replacing the 6n6p power tubes with some 6cg7 tubes - which have the same pin layout and are supposed to be the closest Western equivalent. They were unexciting GE Jan brand with no shield plates. First off. They work! And they sounded ok for the brief time I listened with them, not quite as good as the stock ones. They are new however and certainly not going to be the best of that tube type. The bad news is the filaments were glowing a little too bright and they obviously run hotter than the 6n6p. I didn't have a problem for the 10 minutes they were in but don't recommend trying it with the stock LD III. It seems a resistor change as per the 6h30 might be in order.

dr dougie -
AWESOME! thanks for keeping us posted, I figured it was worth a shot! So now what do we do, figure out resistance or something?? Thanks for trying this.
For those interested, this idea started back on about page 58 - 60...

 

[ethebull]

If you want to explore different highly regarded power tubes, the electrical equivalent’s are the E182CC, 5687, 7119, 7044, 6900 tube varieties. They are plentiful. See :

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/rev...ifiers-301219/

 

[Penchum]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ethebull /img/forum/go_quote.gif If you want to explore different highly regarded power tubes, the electrical equivalent’s are the E182CC, 5687, 7119, 7044, 6900 tube varieties. They are plentiful. See : http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/rev...ifiers-301219/

Boy, ain't that the truth!

I guess I should update that review to include the latest model of the MKIVse.