Little Dot MKIII Tube Rolling
Apr 27, 2008 at 2:19 AM Post #736 of 3,408
This is likely a very stupid question, but do I risk damaging the amp if I run different driver tubes (both 403B/EF95 family) for each channel? I doubt it, but I just want to make sure the power section doesn't need any sort of precise load balancing.
 
Apr 27, 2008 at 2:33 AM Post #737 of 3,408
Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif
That MK III makes for an impressive pre amp don't it Pench
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My (new) MC 7R is finally sounding good after 125 (and counting) hrs of burn in. Quite impressive imaging, sound stage depth, bass delineation and extension is the best I've heard from a tube pre-amp. Very impressed so far. The new ribbons in the LFT's has elevated the speaker from very good to absolutely great. I'm stunned by the contrast from the old ribbons to the new ones.

Those TD speakers look like a great deal. Look like mini B&W monitors . Very cool. Are they voiced like B&W or are they warmer ?



PS. My Meixing MC -7R has Mundorf MKP supreme film caps, solid solder joints, clean PP build quality,Rubicon and BHC Aerovox electrolytic caps. Impressive heavy, well made tranny's and a choke (for the tube plate B+ I think).All resistors are 1 or 2 watt metal films. Solid core teflon coated copper wire (looks like 16 gauge )



E said he thought the same thing about the TAD's, so that must be correct. They require a ton of "maturing" time, but already the changes I've heard are very nice. Time will tell.
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Man, that pre-amp sounds like a keeper!
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I'm glad you upgraded your speakers too. All together, you should be in audio heaven by now!
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Apr 27, 2008 at 3:11 AM Post #738 of 3,408
Quote:

Originally Posted by Penchum /img/forum/go_quote.gif
E said he thought the same thing about the TAD's, so that must be correct. They require a ton of "maturing" time, but already the changes I've heard are very nice. Time will tell.
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Man, that pre-amp sounds like a keeper!
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I'm glad you upgraded your speakers too. All together, you should be in audio heaven by now!
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I am Pench.......thanks for the kind words. The kicker is I'm listening to this thing with just the stock tubes in it and am loving it. With top shelf NOS tubes waiting to go in.......well you know....audio nirvana
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What type of tweeter is used on the TAD's ? Are the bass drivers kevlar weave ?

Regards,

Peete.
 
Apr 27, 2008 at 3:16 AM Post #739 of 3,408
I'm seriously considering a pair of TAD 1000 artisan series mono blocks from Paul. I'll have to sell a kidney .......
 
Apr 27, 2008 at 4:00 AM Post #740 of 3,408
Quote:

Originally Posted by dgbiker1 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
This is likely a very stupid question, but do I risk damaging the amp if I run different driver tubes (both 403B/EF95 family) for each channel? I doubt it, but I just want to make sure the power section doesn't need any sort of precise load balancing.


My wise neighbor always says "there is no such thing as a stupid question, only stupid answers" .
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That being said I'm not sure if using different types of driver ( EF95/403B family) will harm the amp or not. SQ will be affected and not for the better is my guess.


Peete.
 
Apr 27, 2008 at 4:27 AM Post #741 of 3,408
Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif
My wise neighbor always says "there is no such thing as a stupid question, only stupid answers" .
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That being said I'm not sure if using different types of driver ( EF95/403B family) will harm the amp or not. SQ will be affected and not for the better is my guess.


Peete.



Yea, I was just thinking of doing it to compare tubes. Unfortunately the point is moot now since I lost the auction I was look at- 3 Ericssons + 1 Western Electric. I figured I was getting Ericssons and a WE sample, but someone stole them in the last 3 seconds
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BTW: Anyone have any experience with either Western Electric or Ericsson? The Ericssons seem to be pretty rare, but WEs are plentiful. I'm tempted to try the WE 408A tubes.
5 NOS WESTERN ELECTRIC 6028 PENTODE TUBE - Sub for 408A - eBay (item 230245500062 end time Apr-28-08 17:55:18 PDT)
 
Apr 27, 2008 at 10:33 AM Post #742 of 3,408
Raytheon is a division of Western Electric.

If you install two different driver tubes left and right, your amp will spin counter clockwise and tangle up your cords. Reverse them if you wish it to spin clockwise to untangle the mess.
 
Apr 27, 2008 at 10:48 AM Post #744 of 3,408
Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The brewski thing is on brother and stands anytime your in the neighborhood (regardless of favors)
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I'd like to know where some bypass would work as well. I'm not well versed enough ( with tube circuits) to suggest where. I bet Jamato8 would know what could be done to the MK III to increase it's performance.
I emailed David about cap swaps and he really didn't answer any of my questions in that regard. I didn't ask him about cap bypassing though.

Good luck with the resistor mod
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and reassembly



Now that my switches are installed and the amp is back together and working, I will not be yanking the board out again for any reason, short of component failure. The only way I would consider it would be if I re-boxed the unit in a different chassis - with a more serviceable design.
 
Apr 27, 2008 at 12:33 PM Post #745 of 3,408
Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I am Pench.......thanks for the kind words. The kicker is I'm listening to this thing with just the stock tubes in it and am loving it. With top shelf NOS tubes waiting to go in.......well you know....audio nirvana
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What type of tweeter is used on the TAD's ? Are the bass drivers kevlar weave ?

Regards,

Peete.



It lists the tweeter as: 1-1/4" Perforated Poly-Dome Top Tweeter with high-low selection switch - tweet plays 1/10th as lound as the main driver - there to give cymbals an edge, and precise imagery

It lists the bass driver as: Directly Wired 6-3/4" 8-Ohm Wide Band woven Kevlar Strand Main Single Driver(SD)

Here is the unique part: Cabinet and Drivers are Custom Designed to work together without a crossover board
No Crossover Design = No phase shift midrange blur

Here is the site for them: http://www.angelfire.com/biz/bizzyb/TAD805SD.html

It is fun listening to them as they mature.
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Apr 27, 2008 at 12:40 PM Post #746 of 3,408
Quote:

Originally Posted by ethebull /img/forum/go_quote.gif
P, @$169 delivered, I'd say you're already in the great buy side of the bell curve.


True! The piano black cabinets are worth that much.
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My wife thinks they are "spacey" because of the bullets on top.
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I got my Pioneer Integrated Amp (SA-9500-II) out of storage, so I can pump some watts at them for extended periods of time. That should loosen the tight Kevlar.
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Apr 27, 2008 at 12:48 PM Post #747 of 3,408
Quote:

Originally Posted by ethebull /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Now that my switches are installed and the amp is back together and working, I will not be yanking the board out again for any reason, short of component failure. The only way I would consider it would be if I re-boxed the unit in a different chassis - with a more serviceable design.


I tried to warn everyone that it was more difficult than usual. But, thats what you get in order to have that sleek thinner looking design, which I do love the looks of.
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Now that you have the mod done, you will probably never go in there again.
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Time to put some hours on those EH's. I'm interested in how you perceive them (after break in).
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Maybe PP will do his next.
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Apr 27, 2008 at 2:08 PM Post #748 of 3,408
Back on 3/09/08, I posted Part I of a comprehensive tube shoot-out. With best intentions, I promised a follow-up in a week or two. More tubes were on the way, and I wanted to include impressions using the 6H30 power tubes. I took my time investigating mods vs. adapters (do I really want to void my warranty?) and after considerable consternation, my MK III is now modded to use 6H30’s

New Drivers:

RCA JRC 6AK5 (1943) silver plates, square angled getters
Tung Sol 6AK5 (1965) flat grey ribbed plates, bent squared D-getters
Sylvania 6AK5WB (60’s or 70’s ?) shiny black plates with 3 vertically stacked, nearly square windows on opposing narrower walls, round halo getters.
Raytheon 6AK5 (1944) small curved black plates, flag getter

Power Tubes:

Electro-Harmonix 6H30Pi Gold pins (current production)
IBM 7044 tall grey plates, D-getters
- these power tubes were on hand for Part I but not formally reviewed:
Arcturus 7044 (40’s)
Tung Sol 5687 black plates, D or horseshoe getters
GE 5-Star 5687 (1961) jet black plates, halo getters
- All compared to Russian 6H6n-N (6H6Pi) - the “stock” power tube

First the new Drivers:

The physical construction of my RCA JRC 6AK5’s mirrors Penchum’s early Sylvania 6AK5 with silver plates and square getters (same tube different label?). Sonically decent, they are a lot like the 5654A GE’s I have and reviewed last time - a step up from the stock GE’s, but not in the league with Mobile Audios.

Tung Sol 6AK5’s - See my thoughts on the Amperex 5654 in Part I. They are kiss’in cousins - a nice step up from the RCA JRC’s

Sylvania 6AK5WB After reading glowing reports on the Gold Brand Sylvanias, I thought perhaps their less expensive brethren might come close. There are several different Syl-6AK5’s, so I looked for physical equivalents to the GB. These don’t have gold plated pins, and QC was likely less stringent, but hey, with a price difference of 5-10 fold, you can’t go wrong here. Great sound stage, outstanding midrange and vocal realism, … they are hard to fault. Balanced across the spectrum, and devoid of ultradetailstereophileitis. Penchum about wore out his Rush files in trying
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, but he was hard pressed to distinguish them sonically from the GB‘s, so far. Lets just say they are among a small handful of tubes (maybe 3 or 4) that every LD owner should scurry to find. There is synergy here, regardless of your front end or headphone choice.

Trapper32 posted his love for his Raytheon 6AK5’s, above and beyond the Sylvania WB - “I think the Raytheon's have a cleaner sound with more air if that's possible, more detail…” @$20 delivered for 10, I couldn’t say no. Do they better the Sylvanias?

These can sound really good, but they are prone to microphonics, more than any other I’ve tried. Have you ever heard a school yard swing set on a windy day? The chain-swings causing the metal pipes to ping and sing? It’s interesting, because you can hear this with the volume all the way down by touching the volume knob, or lightly tapping on the HP cord near the plug end. Ok, sitting back in my chair with the music at a good clip, the problem is no longer on the radar, and - they do indeed compete with some of the best tubes. “A bit more sparkle”, yep… I’ll have to play around with the several pairs I have and update y’all on these later.


Power Tubes*

E182CC, 5687, 7119, 7044, 6900 varieties seem to fetch a premium price on eBay for whatever reason. Bargains are rare, and many $4-ish drivers sound awesome. It’s been said that power tubes represent 15-25% of the sound signature equation, drivers 75-85%. So… Why bother? Hmmm..

The IBM and Arcturus 7044* tubes are identical in construction. In viewing pictures on eBay listings, I have concluded that both are re-badged Sylvania 7044’s - I don’t own the Syl’s, but these two sound the same. These have been my favorite power tubes. They impart well defined bass and warmth compared to the stock 6H6Pi’s and are my default choice in complementing every EF95 tube I’ve tried.

The Tung Sol and GE 5-Stars 5687 power tubes* are fairly similar. Both feature detail enhancement. The TS - considered the gold standard of 5687’s, are more harmonically rich, and I prefer them to the 5-Stars somewhat drier more detailed flavor. Both work to complement the darker signature of EF92 varieties I’ve tried. These positive qualities with EF92’s are a mixed bag when paired with EF95’s (to my ears). If you really dig detail, your opinion might differ. Keep in mind my phones of choice (K701’s) don’t need a boost in this category. IMO YMMV

What about the stock 6H6Pi power tubes? How do they sound compared to the adaptable options just discussed? Good news! They hang in with the vintage boutique glass very nicely, thank you. Without compromise IMO. Just a wee different.

The stock tubes can easily be described as neutral - right down the middle of the playing field. A skosh less warmth and bass strength vs. the 7044’s, a smidgeon less detailed head to head with 5687’s. Keep in mind however, two EF95 varieties compared may offer less differentiation, so the 15-20% rule is a moving target. I‘d widen the range to 15-30% depending. That’s about all that needs to be said. Mix and match is the whole draw to making Bullplugs. Enhance your fun and massage your inner tweak bone, or just leave it to us nut jobs
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Enter the *EH 6H30Pi gold pin, the stock power tubes in a LD MK IVse. I’ve had these kicking around for awhile now, but until last week they couldn’t be evaluated in my stock MKIII. If you haven’t followed the story line on these; first they were listed as compatibles in the MK III, then they weren’t, then it was determined you had to Mod the board to use’em. My hope was for some kind of Bullplug2 solution, but that didn’t pan out. I ended up installing a switch using Webghost ‘s approach. Thx WG! And dgb1 2!

The 6H30 tubes are far more substantial to the eye and hand. They make all 5687/7044 and 6H6 units appear utterly flaccid! Does structural manliness equate to sonic balls?

Well, much like a sprouting teenage boy, the 6H30Pi’s need some time to figure out what to do with their new found manhood. Early in their burn-in, things wandered around quite a bit. Dynamics had a surging unnaturalness and harmonic structure was pinched. With 80 hours and counting, they’ve lost most of their youthful awkwardness.

My Mk III needs a jock strap! There is weight and control that other power tubes do not deliver. Perspective is deeper, notes are sharpened, highs are quick and detailed but not forward, and the frequency balance leans a little to the dark side, much like the above mentioned 7044’s, which I like. These bring out more bass slam than I’ve ever heard through my K701’s.

About the only thing they seem to diminish is harmonic richness, making notes disappear more sharply than I’m used to. More hours needed? Perhaps, but I’ve read in comments by Audio Research owners that many miss the harmonic qualities of older 6922 based units. AR has redesigned most of their gear to use 6H30’s.

On the subject of tube purchasing styles, I’ve gone about it like I’m sitting at a large table in a Chinese restaurant, with a bunch of adventurous eaters. It’s a cheesy joint but the food is good. Sharing is great fun! Find a head-fi buddy or two and trade a few pairs. Everybody learns what to order next time.
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*NOTE!
The EH 6H30’s require soldered resistor changes in the board, either switched or un-switched, thus voiding your warranty.
The 7044 and 5687’s require pin reconfiguring adapters, these adapters will also open your power tube choices to include E182CC, 7119, and 6900’s.

Hope you enjoyed my shared indulgences,

E


How to make Bulldapter bullplugs: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/rev...ifiers-301219/

Big Ass tube review Part I: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/lit...ml#post3921663
 
Apr 27, 2008 at 2:25 PM Post #749 of 3,408
Woah - after about the 15 hour mark, the Amperex 5654 really opened up! Great soundstage, warm mids and awesome subterranean bass.

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Apr 27, 2008 at 2:30 PM Post #750 of 3,408
Quote:

Originally Posted by ethebull /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Back on 3/09/08,


Major snip.
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Excellent Review part 2 E!!
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When are you going to plunk down for a set of 6H30PI-DR's??

I'm doing some listening tests with the DR's in my MKIII. I'll report back once I have the differences ironed out. Initial impressions; Macho Macho MKIII.
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