Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW!
Nov 7, 2012 at 6:19 PM Post #9,496 of 11,345
I'm curious if anyone else has tried spraying or coating the cups with rubber sealant since I did it months ago. The process is messy as all heck, and utterly irreversible, but it gives a fantastic seal between cup and baffle. So much so that you pretty much need to know your mod config before you start, because you might not be able to open them up again!
 
Nov 7, 2012 at 9:13 PM Post #9,497 of 11,345
Armaegis I actually poured some of the Black Plasti-Dip into the two rear recesses in each cup to more or less bring them level in the rears, a slight bit of shrinkage but close enough.
 I found that I could also blob a tiny bit around the cable entry points at the tops while i was in there.
 The stuff sticks but i think if you really wanted to it would strip off ok. I tested that with a bit.
 Did it to add some mass and a bit of damping in the rears.
Unfortunately this is in the second set i have which is sitting idle until I get around to it.
 I can post a couple pics when i get to them again.
 
ACTUALLY now that i re-read your post reminds me that I also bought some of their SPRAY CAN version so i should try it on top of what's been done so far. Thanks for the reminder. I think the stuff you used began to bond together at the joined seams when it was sealed up right?
 Not sure i don't think this Plasti-dip will .
 
Nov 7, 2012 at 11:54 PM Post #9,498 of 11,345
Yeah, it sticks when pressed firmly together since it's fairly soft. If you only spray the cups or press lightly it might not stick as much. I sprayed both the cups and the baffles. The rubbery stuff is fine to handle, but tends to stick to itself.
 
Nov 8, 2012 at 12:54 AM Post #9,499 of 11,345
Quote:
Would love to hear your follow-up on the FiiO E9 vs O2 amps as I currently have an E7/E9 combo and have been thinking of upgrading to the ODAC/O2 combo. Thanks for sharing!!

I've had both combos and the O2/ODAC is in a different league than the E7/E9. The sound is much cleaner and the signal is more transparent. If you can afford the upgrade, it is well worth the upgrade. Sorry I can't be more detailed as it's been awhile since I've used the E7/E9, but the difference (the DACs in particular) is quite amazing.
 
Nov 8, 2012 at 8:41 AM Post #9,500 of 11,345
Quote:
I've had both combos and the O2/ODAC is in a different league than the E7/E9. The sound is much cleaner and the signal is more transparent. If you can afford the upgrade, it is well worth the upgrade. Sorry I can't be more detailed as it's been awhile since I've used the E7/E9, but the difference (the DACs in particular) is quite amazing.

 
Ok, thanks for the info! Maybe Santa will be good to me this year :)
 
Nov 8, 2012 at 5:50 PM Post #9,501 of 11,345
just got my t50rp imported from USA to germany/europe.i have a xonar stx soundcard with special headphone amplification. now these phones have 50ohm impedance but i need to put volume on nearly 80~100% to hear reasonable sound out of them. could i alter the amplification from "normal gain 0db for<64ohms" to "high gain+12db for 64~300ohms" without harming them?
 
also the right cup drops out sometimes until i fiddle on the plug on the left cup.is this a common issue?
 
i´ll probably mod them with paxmate, plasticine and new cushions.
 
Nov 8, 2012 at 5:58 PM Post #9,502 of 11,345
just got my t50rp imported from USA to germany/europe.i have a xonar stx soundcard with special headphone amplification. now these phones have 50ohm impedance but i need to put volume on nearly 80~100% to hear reasonable sound out of them. could i alter the amplification from "normal gain 0db for<64ohms" to "high gain+12db for 64~300ohms" without harming them?

also the right cup drops out sometimes until i fiddle on the plug on the left cup.is this a common issue?

i´ll probably mod them with paxmate, plasticine and new cushions.

These things can take quite a bit of volume from experience, so high gain should be fine.
The right channel drop is thanks to the cables. Try some contact cleaner or some different cables to see if your situation is not a special case.
 
Nov 8, 2012 at 6:17 PM Post #9,503 of 11,345
hey guys (or BMF), i have a question:
 
assuming every modding parts have the same size and weight except for the plasticine in the baffles...
 
if you listen to the headphone and you hear the right channel has more volume, or the bass and vocals is not centered/leaning abit to the right... any idea which one has the heavier plasticine put on the baffles?
 
sorry cant explain it clearly haha... just wondering.
 
Nov 8, 2012 at 7:12 PM Post #9,504 of 11,345
Quote:
hey guys (or BMF), i have a question:
 
assuming every modding parts have the same size and weight except for the plasticine in the baffles...
 
if you listen to the headphone and you hear the right channel has more volume, or the bass and vocals is not centered/leaning abit to the right... any idea which one has the heavier plasticine put on the baffles?
 
sorry cant explain it clearly haha... just wondering.

 
From my experience, it is best to replace the cable before modding.  That way you don't have to worry about biased channel imbalances due to the terrible stock cable.  This is what solved my problems: http://v-moda.com/audio-only-cable/.
 
As for your question, I always wondered if the input jack/pcb caused a slight variation due to not 100% symmetry between the Left and Right cups.  I know BMF's charts always show a slight difference between each cup.  Could be this or just human error during the mod, or a combo of both.
 
Nov 8, 2012 at 7:15 PM Post #9,505 of 11,345
doubt its the cable since it is using rewired dual entry =)
im pretty sure its the uneven weight of the plasticine on the baffles
 
Nov 8, 2012 at 8:56 PM Post #9,506 of 11,345
I had the same imbalance with mine, right louder than left.  Don't forget to seal off the open space around the cable jack in the cup.  It is suggested that you use silicon, I used newplast.
 
Phill
 
Nov 8, 2012 at 9:18 PM Post #9,507 of 11,345
Yes, work to seal around the jack, as well as the wire exit points where they head out from the cups and to the headband to reach the other cup. You don't want a leak in that area either. I've tried to use hot glue for this activity before, and it is just plain horrible to try and end up getting a good job when applying. The hot glue globs a bit and ends up cooling off too quick. Then, with time (cable twists, etc.) the hot glue can tend to work its way loose. The silicon is a great option to consider. I found some smaller tubes of it at Walmart and they have a top on the container that you can use to re-seal the tube if you need to use some more down the road. It's a bit under $4.00 and much better than a regular tube that would essentially go to waste because if you don't use all of it, sealing off the tip is a bit of a pain so air doesn't reach it.

As to the imbalance, I've never narrowed it down to the plasticine amounts in the cups. That has never been a variation for me. The best way to resolve this is with Deoxit - with a quick spray into the jack on the ear cup. Then, use the V-Moda cable as suggested above. These two methods for a resolution have been mentioned more than once in the thread, and I've been following it strictly, and haven't experienced any additional imbalance issues with mine.

Best of luck!
 
Nov 8, 2012 at 9:44 PM Post #9,508 of 11,345
you guys should try using different amounts of plasticine on the baffles =) like 10-20g heavier than the other
 
i guess ill just redo the mod!
 
i honestly dont think its the seal because i tried 3 different new earpads and all sound the same the wire entry is completely sealed with silicon and hot glue on the cup opening since it can be removed faster
 
Nov 8, 2012 at 10:50 PM Post #9,509 of 11,345
you guys should try using different amounts of plasticine on the baffles =) like 10-20g heavier than the other

i guess ill just redo the mod!

i honestly dont think its the seal because i tried 3 different new earpads and all sound the same the wire entry is completely sealed with silicon and hot glue on the cup opening since it can be removed faster


Coin toss says Right.

Seriously, I don't know but I almost always have an easier time getting the Left side modded than the Right side. Seems counterintuitive.
 
Nov 9, 2012 at 4:36 PM Post #9,510 of 11,345
Treble resonance and ear adaptation is such a funny thing. I've tuned mine such that the treble is flatter than any other headphone that I have (according to my ear), using test tones and frequency sweeps/warbles. I hardly notice any peaks or valleys at all. But then my ears are so used to hearing those treble peaks (especially coming from something like the HE-6) that listening to the fostex almost feels like there's an entire layer missing. Of course, then I listen to the fostex for a while and get used to it, then go to the HE-6 and it almost feels piercing. 
 
Though just to make sure I wasn't fooling myself, I've listened to the test tones both after getting accustomed to the two headphones, so I'm fairly certain that my perceptions are accurate (or at the very least consistent). 
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top