[FraGGleR]

I think people might have caught on that these were popular.  Particularly since several forum members went pro with their tweaks.  I'd imagine that they bought a lot of sets.
 
I'm hoping for sub $80 again.  I would definitely get another pair.

 

[FraGGleR]

Mini-XLR mod was a success!  Well if you don't count my inadvertent bass port addition 

 
 

 
 
I have added a series of photos that step through the process in my personal galleries:  http://www.head-fi.org/g/a/704120/t50rp-modification/

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Quote:

Mini-XLR mod was a success!  Well if you don't count my inadvertent bass port addition 

 
 

 
 
I have added a series of photos that step through the process in my personal galleries:  http://www.head-fi.org/g/a/704120/t50rp-modification/

 
Nice job! Thanks for the pictorial. 
 
What type of solder did you use and at what temperature?  Any tips on soldering technique appreciated.

 

[FraGGleR]

Quote:

 
Nice job! Thanks for the pictorial. 
 
What type of solder did you use and at what temperature?  Any tips on soldering technique appreciated.

Thanks.  I used Cardas Quad Eutectic solder.  Unfortunately, I have no idea what temperature.  I have a Metcal SP200 (bought it off of a friend) that determines the minimum heat needed. I do know that the Cardas solder melts at a relatively low temperature and you certainly shouldn't need a lot of heat to get the solder pads hot since they are so thin.  I used normal desoldering braid to get rid of most of the giant blob of solder.  Then just a normal touch of solder to attach the new wires.  I reflowed a couple times to position the wire just right so a decent amount of heat was flowing and I saw no signs of damage happening to the plastic.  
 
One issue that might have caused people problems in the past is that I found the stock wire to be insanely hard to get solder on to.  I typically use flux to wet the tips of the wire then touch a blob of solder to it to tin.  The stock wire didn't want to take that.  Normally just about all other wires soak up the solder instantly.  When trying to solder to the mini XLR jacks, I was having a damn hard time getting a good joint.  Plus the dialectric was disintegrating.  That's when I decided to take my chances and completely rewire.  Worked beautifully.  Have no idea what was going on with the stock wire.

 

[micmacmo]

FraGGleR, that looks great. Thanks for documenting your work. 
 
I don't think I have a chair or sofa in my house that looks as comfortable as those J$ pads!

 

[xecure]

Hey guys, I'm looking to mod a pair of fostex t50rp's I bought a few weeks ago. They have a very neutral sound to them (little lacking in the bass) and I am looking to mod them in a way that will bring out the bass. I'm going for a more "fun" pair of cans than an accurate pair. What mods have you done that bought out the "fun" in these cans? =D

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Quote:

I removed the cotton entirely from my mod and the sound is much more in line with what I like.  Bass is back, mids are strong, and I still have better treble than stock due to the felt and transpore (added a small reflector of transpore).  

Just curious...did you try less cotton before going with no cotton at all? When I have too much cotton/fiberglass, the sound is too bright and the bass rolls off at around 100 Hz. When I remove all cotton/fiberglass, I usually have too much bass, a 5 dB lower midrange hump, and too little lower treble from ~ 2 kHz to 4 kHz with the biggest dip of around 5 dB at 3 kHz. Finding the "sweet spot" for the amount of cotton/fiberglass smooths out the FR...IME....YMMV.

 

[FraGGleR]

I went straight to no cotton.  I am going to play with it some more.  I don't think there is too much bass, but just comparing to my LCD-2, I think I can do better with a more even sound.  

 

[hipster2010]

Quote:

I went straight to no cotton.  I am going to play with it some more.  I don't think there is too much bass, but just comparing to my LCD-2, I think I can do better with a more even sound.  

I have just a little bit of cotton in mine right now and I prefer it to no cotton. It has a little less bass, but It seems like there is a tad bit more treble there, so I was looking for a slightly more balanced sound and this helped.

 

[mrscotchguy]

Out of curiosity, does anyone have a extra set of baffles laying around they would like to sell to me?  It seems like Full Compass has any replacement parts you could ask for, with the exception of the baffles.
 
Thanks

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Quote:

Out of curiosity, does anyone have a extra set of baffles laying around they would like to sell to me?  It seems like Full Compass has any replacement parts you could ask for, with the exception of the baffles.
 
Thanks

 
I may have a set baffles and cups for you in a week or two. If you don't find any between now and then, PM me. 

 

[planarmagnetic]

.

 

[FraGGleR]

You will have to do quite a bit of tuning since they will be plastic.  This whole thread deals with the problems of the plastic enclosure.  Maybe some of the more experienced modders can go into more details for you as far as open vs semi-open vs closed.   Good luck!  The 3D printer I have access too is communal and ridiculously slow.  I don't know if I can even print one set much less many.  Of course if you are going Kickstarter, you can ask for enough money to get a better 3D printer.
 
I assume some metal will be used as well?  Very interested in what you come up with.  I still have hopes routing cups out of wood once my community workshop repairs it's CNC router.

 

[planarmagnetic]

I will be using a plant based composite via injection mold which has similar properties to bamboo. the head band will be made of brushed stainless steal. The design is inspired by the Lamy 2000 black earcups with silver headband.

 

[FraGGleR]

Sexy pen!