[Daemos]

I wish the T50RP here were that cheap, they go for aorund $160-180AUD...but that doesn't stop people from importing from the US, which brings it to about $120-130 landed. The cost of the mods would probably bring this T50RP closer to the $230-250AUD range...but even at that price the HE-6  are still 5-6x more expensive.
 
One other observation I've made is that orthos love power (HE-6 is more of a needs along with love though) , I had them driven through the Audio GD NFB-11's headphone out (max 1.8W into 50ohms) which T50RP to a loud listening level...but using the Yahama amp really made the T50RP sound much better.
 

 

[Nevod]

Hah!
I've probably used wrong kind of microfiber on the phones. I've used very dense lens-cleaning microfiber, which looks like randomly arranged fibers pressed into thin sheets. It's not transparent at all. 
I've found a different kind of MF at home, thicker and much less dense, it's even a bit transparent, i.e. light gets through, not shapes, of course.
Going to try it soon.

 

[eddieg24]

How did you get modded Fostex's for 139?
 

 

[Llloyd]

Quote:

I have spent the last month or so comparing modded T50RPs to HE-6s, here is my review.
 
Based on this little social experiment, I feel the modded T50RP are some of the best value if not the best value headphones you can get, esp if you can get the North American pricing on them.

 
 
Great write up!  I really strongly agree with everything you've said here!  I own HE-500 and I have a similiar experience.  I also agree that a well modded t50rp is one of the best values in headphones, even if you do not mod it yourself.

 

[graphidz]

Quote:

 
 
Great write up!  I really strongly agree with everything you've said here!  I own HE-500 and I have a similiar experience.  I also agree that a well modded t50rp is one of the best values in headphones, even if you do not mod it yourself.

 
Though, it won't be that fun~

 

[Caution]

So erm.. I just decided to open my pair up again for the nth time, only this time I wasn't paying attention and yanked the cable too hard which ripped the -ve solder/contact pad off the pcb film. Is there really no (simple) way to fix these?

 

[Kibble Fat]

After measuring the total resistance of each left and right channels, I soldered (2) 1-ohm resistors in series on the left channel lead (inside the cup). This has more-or-less fixed the channel imbalance. Every time I tried to ignore the imbalance, eventually some unintentional reverse psychology would force me to notice and after a few minutes it became really annoying. At the 3.5mm plug, simply measure the resistance from tip (left) to ground and ring (right) to ground. The right measurement should be higher. Then subtract the left resistance from the right and you have the resistance value you need to add between the female jack inside the left cup and the left driver. I was anticipating wiring resistors in parallel, however I was fortunate to have exactly (2) 1-ohm resistors on hand. (3) 6.3-ohm resistors in parallel would also work.

So that's my fix. I already had plugs between the wire knots inside the cups and the drivers so it wasn't a big deal.

BTW, The latest BMF mod is amazing. Now it's just a matter of finding the ideal transpore size on the felt and driver vs. cup-side placement. Cheers!

Has anyone tried reducing the cup volume?

 

[geetarman49]

Quote:

So erm.. I just decided to open my pair up again for the nth time, only this time I wasn't paying attention and yanked the cable too hard which ripped the -ve solder/contact pad off the pcb film. Is there really no (simple) way to fix these?

yes ... either use conductive epoxy or (cheaper) permatex window defogger repair kit.  the procedure has been previously described within this thread.

 

[ahplk]

Quote:

 
I'm not sure what bitoplast is, but I'll have to look it up.  Also, there's the melamine.  I do have a piece of it, but have never tried it out, yet.  However, if I could offer a few suggestions, please view them and consider as an option:
 
- Dynamat.  Not always ideal in positive ways, yet adds weight to the headphones.  It's not impossible to remove, but slightly time consuming.  Inside the cup, it doesn't have the benefit.  However, for now, keep the Dynamat in place on the ear side of your baffles as you've already done.
 
- Polyfill.  Most of us have used this material and have determined that it really doesn't add to the modification in a positive manner.  A possible better selection might be to use a small layer of fiberglass insulation and some Rite-Aid "Natural Absorbent" cotton (comes in a roll) on top of the fiberglass, before you put the baffles into place and then screw the baffles down.
 
After performing or using the above two considerations, it would be interesting to see what your results were, or how they changed - hopefully, for the better.

 
Try giving the melamine a shot. I cut a 1/4" or so slice of a Magic Eraser to fit in the top of each cup. I haven't had any reason to mod any further with this foam along with plasticine loaded baffles and 3/4 closed vents (stock pads). I have no way of measuring but compared to cotton or empty cups, it's the best sound I've found.

 

[KneelJung]

Quote:

So erm.. I just decided to open my pair up again for the nth time, only this time I wasn't paying attention and yanked the cable too hard which ripped the -ve solder/contact pad off the pcb film. Is there really no (simple) way to fix these?

 
Sorry to hear that, I've been down that road myself twice. I think it was the same solder tab both times. What I did was tin my wire and reattach it to the existing solder tab. It's been suggested by others in here that could lead to other problems, but it worked fine for me the first time. The second time it happened I was able to reattach the cable, but lost connectivity. I was able to get conductivity back with some conductive paint from a rear window defogger kit, but that stuff wont help you reattach the cable to the pcb board.

 

[Caution]

Quote:

yes ... either use conductive epoxy or (cheaper) permatex window defogger repair kit.  the procedure has been previously described within this thread.

 
 

Quote:

 
Sorry to hear that, I've been down that road myself twice. I think it was the same solder tab both times. What I did was tin my wire and reattach it to the existing solder tab. It's been suggested by others in here that could lead to other problems, but it worked fine for me the first time. The second time it happened I was able to reattach the cable, but lost connectivity. I was able to get conductivity back with some conductive paint from a rear window defogger kit, but that stuff wont help you reattach the cable to the pcb board.
 

 
Excellent, thanks for the tips guys. I shall have a look into this and will report back.

 

[eddieg24]

How did the Shure 940's work out with the Fostexs.
 

 

[hipster2010]

Has anyone ever tried Denon J$ pads on the T50rp. I know they are rare, but I was curious if they fit and how they sound.

 

[EZPZ]

I began my Head-Fi journey with a humble pair of Sony MDR-XB40EXs just under two years ago. Since then, I've owned my fair share of headphones--from the highly recommended Audio Technica ATH-M50 to the polarizing Shure SRH940, the oh-so-classy AKG K550 to the luxurious tank known as the Ultrasone Signature Pro.
 
I am happy to say, my journey ends today with LFF's Paradox.
 
Absolutely fantastic Luis! Thank you for all your hard work. Perhaps our paths will cross again in the future. I hear you're working on some new things now that you're officially a MOT.

 

 

[mmayer167]

^ Glad to see another Paradox owner! Still loving my pair as much as the first day many many months ago I recently got a Cavalli CTH and put an RCA clear top 6CG7 tube in it and am enjoying a fun side of the paradox vs what they are out of the ODAC/O2. Enjoy EZPZ 

 
~M