Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW!
Mar 13, 2012 at 5:11 PM Post #6,946 of 11,345


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How do you bring out the mids, and detail? They feel recessed, the pink insulation helped but it also increased the bass like crazy, loving the reflex dot, dat treble.

 
Hmm ... maybe, it has something to do with the color of the insulation?  I used yellow fiberglass that I "borrowed" from an unfinished section of my basement.  Though, my results were a bit different than yours.  My bass seemed to stay about the same - which was good, but my mids and highs improved when using only the fiberglass as opposed to the cotton and the fiberglass (and no reflex dot).  How many bass vents do you have opened on  your 'phones?  I have mine down to only 1 open one.
 
Mar 13, 2012 at 8:09 PM Post #6,947 of 11,345
Received my T50RP today!!
Thanks to AnotherN00b's sum up. Also, everyone's contribution to this thread.
I think I will begin slowly by adding plasticine, and acoustic foam. 
Originally, there was a mod kit selling on ebay, but it has disappeared. I just don't want to spend too much on mod at this stage.
 
May I ask if there is anyone who is willing to sharing some of your material with me? I can pay you the price of that part and shipping cost.
Please send me a pm. Thanks!
 
 
Mar 13, 2012 at 8:16 PM Post #6,948 of 11,345
Hmm ... maybe, it has something to do with the color of the insulation?  I used yellow fiberglass that I "borrowed" from an unfinished section of my basement.  Though, my results were a bit different than yours.  My bass seemed to stay about the same - which was good, but my mids and highs improved when using only the fiberglass as opposed to the cotton and the fiberglass (and no reflex dot).  How many bass vents do you have opened on  your 'phones?  I have mine down to only 1 open one.


I opened non of the bass vents, I don't really care about the quantity of bass, only the quality, and that it's there.
 
Mar 13, 2012 at 10:28 PM Post #6,949 of 11,345
Well my 840 pads arrived today. As expected the comfort wasn't much of an upgrade at least for me. The sound seems to be less lossy, followed by a bass hump and essentially bass side went up. Treble went up a little, but no more sparkling mids. Efficiently went down too.
V shaped FR should define the change pretty well. Good when I want more bass, otherwise I guess I will stick to stock pads for more relaxed listening.

Which leads me to wonder, do 840 pad users remove the baffle-side felt stuff? Might explain a lot; mines are intact still.
 
Mar 13, 2012 at 10:38 PM Post #6,950 of 11,345
That comparison doesn't mean much.  You have to change your damping scheme for the 840 pads.  Which are better than stock in every way if we're talking about potential. 
 
the only reason to remove the stock driver damping paper is if you want more bass or more treble. 
 
"baffle side felt stuff" doesn't make sense to me...
 
Mar 13, 2012 at 10:54 PM Post #6,951 of 11,345
I also received my first T50RP today! It sounds great, but I'm hearing what you guys are talking about with the general lack of bass and the echoey, hazy sound -- not as bad as HD-280s if I recall correctly, but still worth correcting. 2 hours old, and I've already put on the SRH840 pads I ordered with them :p One thing that surprised me was the headband adjustment. I actually have the sliders bottomed out against the top of the cups (???). Usually my head is so humongous that I have to adjust any given headphone to 75 or 80% of the max size setting and I've worn most high-end headphones at meets/canjam!

On the Shure SRH840 pads:
They are slightly softer... they definitely seal better against my head and are a bit more comfortable for me. My ears still touch the foam, but not nearly as much. I highly recommend this upgrade of all 1 I've tried. I think I'll make some sort of headband pad when I get around to it. After an hour of listening, I'm feeling the pressure of the rubber over a square inch of my scalp... how annoying.

In a few minutes I'll snip the 1/4" plug off with a few feet of the cable and replace it with a 3.5mm Neutrik/Rean. The removed 1/4" will get a 3.5mm female. I'm really happy about the quality of this cable. It's light, slides on everything, doesn't want to tangle, and the 1/4" plug actually has a nice strain relief. A+

Now to wait patiently for modding materials :wink:


Edit: for installation of the 840 pads, rolling the lip inside-out and using cheap masking tape in 90-degree increments as I rolled it on helped
 
Mar 13, 2012 at 11:02 PM Post #6,952 of 11,345
In fact, i think fiber glass, cotton, filter wool is superior to paxmate. I tried removing paxmate, just fiber glass + filter wool combo in the cup and it sound the same. So if you have hard time finding paxmate, just use fiber glass, mineral wool, rock wool, filter wool, cotton, ....
 
Mar 13, 2012 at 11:51 PM Post #6,953 of 11,345

 
Quote:
That comparison doesn't mean much.  You have to change your damping scheme for the 840 pads.  Which are better than stock in every way if we're talking about potential. 
 
the only reason to remove the stock driver damping paper is if you want more bass or more treble. 
 
"baffle side felt stuff" doesn't make sense to me...

Now now, no problem with making comparisons... If it can describe the direct changes then why not. I know changing damping scheme may be required for each different pad, I am just stating the otherwise changes.
 
Yes, I agree these have better potential than stock pads, which are too lossy in too many ways including isolation.
 
Let me rephrase this baffle side felt thing... Wasn't quite the proper word quite obviously. I am talking about the black material that covers the driver on the ear side, which your ears tend to touch with stock pads installed.
 
Since it was already pointed out to me that the driver stock damping "felt" is in fact paper or at least much more like paper than felt, it made sense to me to call it thus paper... But you still answered a question I asked and left unanswered a few pages ago so thanks! I may get into that next week.
 
Mar 14, 2012 at 2:39 AM Post #6,954 of 11,345
I wouldn't recommend removing the driver damping paper unless you are ready for a world of pain because it creates a whole new factor in your damping scheme.  You won't just have the cups, vents and pads, you'll also have the driver damping, and it can get maddening.  It doesn't sound like you are ready for that yet (nothing personal, just in terms of having an additional factor thrown into the mix)
 
I don't think the black material over the front of the driver does anything.  The fabric in the Shure pads is likely doing a lot more.  (it has an audible effect, lowering treble and air)
 
Mar 14, 2012 at 3:26 AM Post #6,955 of 11,345


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Just got the V-Moda cable today and took it down to measure... 1.56 ohms (4-wire, HP3468b). Gah. Must be rather small gauge wires. I also built a cable using a Neutrik right angle mini I had, Mogami mini quad, and a Neutrik 1/4". I used my POS harbor freight dremel to enlarge the opening for the Neutrik RA. Resistance on this cable is 0.1 ohms or so (10'). Not sure what I think of the sound, though I'm not a big cable believer. I'll eventually rewire the phones for balanced. The stock internal wiring looks OK, so will use it.

I made some post's a few days ago questioning whether the VMODA was really better than stock. Thanks to all who contributed their time to measuring them. Although Fishkili in post 6911 seemed to think the differences were worth buying the VMODA, I feel the differences were not significant enough for my $10 I offered my Mogami/Neutrik cable as a better upgrade, glad to see your measurements seem to bear this out.(I also felt stock wiring ok, dremel for enlargement) As regards the sound, I feel it is a big improvement over stock, tighter bass, better highs. As in all things cable these are subjective opinions. I am now working on another cable using different cable and plugs, and think it may be better. Still waiting for parts, depends on fitting the new plug to the Fostex. Look forward to your balanced rewire, and your opinion as to whether it improves the sound.
 
 
 
Mar 14, 2012 at 3:28 AM Post #6,956 of 11,345
So what was the consensus on differences between fostex models? If the T20's are the same driver as the T50, shouldn't I start there for modding and save myself money?
 
Mar 14, 2012 at 3:38 AM Post #6,957 of 11,345
So what was the consensus on differences between fostex models? If the T20's are the same driver as the T50, shouldn't I start there for modding and save myself money?


When I finished my mods there was no difference in sound, so save the $10 if you want.
 
Mar 14, 2012 at 3:54 AM Post #6,958 of 11,345


Quote:
I made some post's a few days ago questioning whether the VMODA was really better than stock. Thanks to all who contributed their time to measuring them. Although Fishkili in post 6911 seemed to think the differences were worth buying the VMODA, I feel the differences were not significant enough for my $10 I offered my Mogami/Neutrik cable as a better upgrade, glad to see your measurements seem to bear this out.(I also felt stock wiring ok, dremel for enlargement) As regards the sound, I feel it is a big improvement over stock, tighter bass, better highs. As in all things cable these are subjective opinions. I am now working on another cable using different cable and plugs, and think it may be better. Still waiting for parts, depends on fitting the new plug to the Fostex. Look forward to your balanced rewire, and your opinion as to whether it improves the sound.
 
 

curious on what you'll be using for the right angle plug into the cup.  I'm tempted to make a cable  now...
 
 
 
Mar 14, 2012 at 7:38 AM Post #6,959 of 11,345


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In fact, i think fiber glass, cotton, filter wool is superior to paxmate. I tried removing paxmate, just fiber glass + filter wool combo in the cup and it sound the same. So if you have hard time finding paxmate, just use fiber glass, mineral wool, rock wool, filter wool, cotton, ....



Did you use dynamat or equivalent under the paxmate when you had it installed? I'm wondering if it is really required since I'm betting it adds a significant amount of weight and seems like a slightly tedious endeavor to install. No one has mentioned using it in quite a few pages so I didn't know if everyone agreed it was a good material or if I missed where someone said it's better to just leave it out.
 
Mar 14, 2012 at 8:00 AM Post #6,960 of 11,345


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Did you use dynamat or equivalent under the paxmate when you had it installed? I'm wondering if it is really required since I'm betting it adds a significant amount of weight and seems like a slightly tedious endeavor to install. No one has mentioned using it in quite a few pages so I didn't know if everyone agreed it was a good material or if I missed where someone said it's better to just leave it out.



Yes, i have dynamat under paxmate but i doubt that it has any effect to the sound.
 

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