[kalbee]

I wouldn't recommend removing the driver damping paper unless you are ready for a world of pain because it creates a whole new factor in your damping scheme.  You won't just have the cups, vents and pads, you'll also have the driver damping, and it can get maddening.  It doesn't sound like you are ready for that yet (nothing personal, just in terms of having an additional factor thrown into the mix)
 
I don't think the black material over the front of the driver does anything.  The fabric in the Shure pads is likely doing a lot more.  (it has an audible effect, lowering treble and air)

Thanks for the heads up! As you say, I am probably not ready for the driver paper yet... Though I got all the materials ready. I will start damping my YH1 first to gain a bit of experience, then move on to some meaner mods for the Fostex. Might also consider removing the fabric on the Shure too.

For the moment I will try to replicate the HP/YH-1 headband.

Though yeah, I did a rudimentary measurement and compared to the stock pads the 840 pads do in fact raise treble and lower mids. Bass I am not sure; my mic isn't exactly good for bass. Audibly it has more impact. Soundstage also seems to grow in depth. Should be useful information for pre-tuning.

 

[headphonatic]

Quote:

Well my 840 pads arrived today. As expected the comfort wasn't much of an upgrade at least for me. The sound seems to be less lossy, followed by a bass hump and essentially bass side went up. Treble went up a little, but no more sparkling mids. Efficiently went down too.
V shaped FR should define the change pretty well. Good when I want more bass, otherwise I guess I will stick to stock pads for more relaxed listening.
Which leads me to wonder, do 840 pad users remove the baffle-side felt stuff? Might explain a lot; mines are intact still.

I think the difference between the stock and 840 pads is the stock pads make the T50rp's sound more forward, sound stage is drastically decreased, and it sounds more fake, probably because I removed the stock felt on the ear side of the baffles. The 840 pads make the T50rp's sound much more realistic.

 

[kalbee]

Mid forward describes the stock pads pretty well. I guess the now lack of it is what brought me a dip in the mids. The change to me is similar to going from a pair of Grados to Beyers. Takes getting used to, and some more tinkering. Waiting on summer break to get on it for good!

 

[Pars]

I compared the cable I made (Neutrik connectors, Mogami mini quad) to the V-Moda cable and think that I prefer the Mogami cable. I was listening to a non-critical listening recording but it seems as if the bass is tighter with it, and overall cleaner presentation. Microphonics could be an issue with it however. I'll need to listen to both more.

 

[Kibble Fat]

I've got Canare star-quad mic cable (L-4E5C), 23awg, and if it's anything like the mogami quad the shielding probably weighs a ton. How is the weight compared to stock or V-moda?

 

[satwilson]

Quote:

curious on what you'll be using for the right angle plug into the cup.  I'm tempted to make a cable  now...
 
 

My first cable used Mogami 2534 quad, (24AWG), and it is too large to fit into the Neutrik RA 1/8" plug. Just had some around, ordered the Neutrik, realized my mistake, but was able to make it work. Pars used the mini quad, I assume the 2799, (26AWG), which has a smaller OD, and fits the Neutrik much better. My original goal was to use 24AWG or larger and the Neutrik 1/8" entry hole makes that difficult to do using my cables of choice: Mogami or Canare. Working with Marc at REDCO Audio, the Switchcraft 1/8" RA (35HDRANAU) plug seems to fit the bill, much larger entry hole for the larger wire I desired. To qualify for me, "better" means able to assemble the parts easier, it took me over an hour to mate the Mogami 2534 to the Neutrik. My new cable will use the Switchcraft 1/8 plug, 6' of Canare 4S6 (20AWG), and a Neutrik 1/4". This all depends on fitting the Switchcraft to the Fostex, parts are in transit. Cost for parts w/shipping was less than $20, Redco will solder it up ready to go for around $10 more. Will it sound "better" than my first cable, or Pars, probably not, just another option. IMHO certainly better than stock or VMODA, see Pars measurements for the VMODA and his Mogami/Neutrik. Keep in mind the entry hole to the jack in the Fostex had to be enlarged to fit the Neutrik, probably also with the Switchcraft. I will post again after the parts arrive. Hope I can get the plug to fit.

 
 

 

[Nevod]

Lined interior side of the earpads with Biplast, also put a small patch of biplast over the center square of the driver, where I have a reverse reflex dot. Music seems to sound a little better, the comfort has been reduced though, and it's warmer now, though not to the point of sweating.

After careful listening on SineGen, I think I see some difference here as well. Seems it has reduced the resonance at 5kHz ( I feel it is a resonance, too high a peak) and increased bass somewhat - as ear-side volume has been reduced, I think.
Plus, seems I've nailed down all problems that seem to be felt here.
From bass to ~900 Hz it's straight, then at 900Hz there is a peak, known to be reduced by cotton or other fillers.
Dip between 1kHz to 2kHz, probably would be corrected if 900Hz resonance is tamed.
Peak at about 4.8-5kHz. Has been reduced by earpad lining, and seems to be the area where ear is really the most sensitive, going by equal loudness curves.
Peak at 6.8-7 kHz, looks like one is common for most headphones, and it is covered in EQ article.
Dips between 8-9 kHz, about 6-8 dB it seems.
Peak at 10.5-11kHz, seems to be common for Fostex.
Fall-off after 16 kHz, though with earpad lining it's not as steep, highest highs seem to be more extended.

Is there any proper way to killing the dips and peaks between 6 and 10 kHz, i.e. without EQ? It's not that I'm completely against EQ, but it's fighting the consequence, not the cause, there would still be phase problems even if amplitude would be brought to a proper level. I suppose that if the entire earside of a headphone and pad would be covered with some sound absorbing material plus the earside chamber would be quite big, there would be next to no resonance, but we can't cover the driver, so there would anyways be an reflective surface.

 

[Fearless1]

I have a stupid  question if any of you modding experts could be so kind as to answer. I bought a pair of already modified  wooden cup T50rps and have been doing my own tweeks to them. The problem i have came up with my last adjustment. I sealed the baffle with some materials I had from building my home speaker sub  and they now  have an enhanced bass responce and stronger mids from doing so.  The problem i have is I now get a puff of air that blows in my right ear when the listening to any type of quick bass hit at higher volumes and it is rather annoying. Anything I can do to eliminate this?

 

[headphonatic]

I have a stupid  question if any of you modding experts could be so kind as to answer. I bought a pair of already modified  wooden cup T50rps and have been doing my own tweeks to them. The problem i have came up with my last adjustment. I sealed the baffle with some materials I had from building my home speaker sub  and they now  have an enhanced bass responce and stronger mids from doing so.  The problem i have is I now get a puff of air that blows in my right ear when the listening to any type of quick bass hit at higher volumes and it is rather annoying. Anything I can do to eliminate this?

What is the configuration of the t50rp's that you have, I'm thinking you may have put too much acoustic foam, and clay, or whatever you used to fill the baffles.

 

[kingoftown1]

Quote:

My first cable used Mogami 2534 quad, (24AWG), and it is too large to fit into the Neutrik RA 1/8" plug. Just had some around, ordered the Neutrik, realized my mistake, but was able to make it work. Pars used the mini quad, I assume the 2799, (26AWG), which has a smaller OD, and fits the Neutrik much better. My original goal was to use 24AWG or larger and the Neutrik 1/8" entry hole makes that difficult to do using my cables of choice: Mogami or Canare. Working with Marc at REDCO Audio, the Switchcraft 1/8" RA (35HDRANAU) plug seems to fit the bill, much larger entry hole for the larger wire I desired. To qualify for me, "better" means able to assemble the parts easier, it took me over an hour to mate the Mogami 2534 to the Neutrik. My new cable will use the Switchcraft 1/8 plug, 6' of Canare 4S6 (20AWG), and a Neutrik 1/4". This all depends on fitting the Switchcraft to the Fostex, parts are in transit. Cost for parts w/shipping was less than $20, Redco will solder it up ready to go for around $10 more. Will it sound "better" than my first cable, or Pars, probably not, just another option. IMHO certainly better than stock or VMODA, see Pars measurements for the VMODA and his Mogami/Neutrik. Keep in mind the entry hole to the jack in the Fostex had to be enlarged to fit the Neutrik, probably also with the Switchcraft. I will post again after the parts arrive. Hope I can get the plug to fit.

 
 

Thanks for the info, definitely keep us updated!
 

 

[fishski13]

Quote:

I made some post's a few days ago questioning whether the VMODA was really better than stock. Thanks to all who contributed their time to measuring them. Although Fishkili in post 6911 seemed to think the differences were worth buying the VMODA, I feel the differences were not significant enough for my $10 I offered my Mogami/Neutrik cable as a better upgrade, glad to see your measurements seem to bear this out.(I also felt stock wiring ok, dremel for enlargement) As regards the sound, I feel it is a big improvement over stock, tighter bass, better highs. As in all things cable these are subjective opinions. I am now working on another cable using different cable and plugs, and think it may be better. Still waiting for parts, depends on fitting the new plug to the Fostex. Look forward to your balanced rewire, and your opinion as to whether it improves the sound.
 
 

my statement wasn't an endorsement of VMODA.  i'm modeling my mods after someone here that uses the VMODA, and the stock plugs are poorly speced.  i rate Mogami highly, but i'm personally not bothered by <2ohm resistance on the wire, especially with a 50ohm ortho which has a flat impedance across the frequency range.

 

[wdahm519]

Quote:

I have the HM5 pads, they're impossible to put on, way too small!

I've developed a way of attaching them that is currently being mocked up.  There are always solutions to anything, you just have to think of them.

 

[headphonatic]

How do we calm the 7000 Hz peak? Already used cotton, doesn't seem to help a lot, but overall sound is improved drastically.

 

[wdahm519]

More cotton?

 

[Magick Man]

More cotton?

I would think less cotton, personally. I didn't have the treble issue, my formula was quite different. I had problems with very recessed mids, but that was fixed with the 840 pads and a thin furniture bumper on the center pedestal.