Just listened to some Fostex T50RPs today... WOW!
Jan 7, 2012 at 7:14 PM Post #5,746 of 11,345
OMG...really, just listened to some Fostex T50RP today...WOW!  Sorry had to say it but it's true.  I love the midrange.  The Magnums and LCD-2 of course has better bass extension and impact and treble extension and shimmer and sparkle but the midrange.  I got to say, I love the midrange on these more than the LCD-2. 
 
I may keep one as is-stock- for the midrange, and get another to mod.
 
 
 
Jan 7, 2012 at 8:43 PM Post #5,747 of 11,345


Quote:
The way I have my t20s set up now though they sound really similar to my AD900s, just way better, haha. Gonna keep my Grados and Ultrasones no matter what, because they're so good for rock and electronic. But all-rounders like my D2000s and HD600s are probably gonna find a new home.


My Rastapants 2 really doesn't get used as much as it should so I was considering selling it but don't think I'll do that any time soon. Even though I don't use it very often it does sound very good when I use them and I also bring them to meets so others can try them.
 
With my budget rig such as my DA151 MK2 dac and PPAv2 amp it's quite amazing how little you have to spend to get something that sounds this good. 
 
Jan 7, 2012 at 9:15 PM Post #5,749 of 11,345


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Can you guys suggest a portable amp that can power these?  Preferably DIY


My O2 just got built.  I can put some impressions up once it arrives to my house.  It's only semi-portable though.
 
Realistically, anything with a decent amount of oomph should do just fine with the T50RP.
 
 
Jan 8, 2012 at 1:12 AM Post #5,751 of 11,345
Just curious here, folks. I grant that the O2 is twice the size of the mini^3, but is one really more portable than the other? I bundle my 5th gen iPod with my mini^3 and, stuffed into a pocket, they are big and bulky together. They're certainly too big to listen to on the go from within my pocket. So I end up carrying them in a mid-sized camera case. And I can do the same with my O2 and a source device.
 
Jan 8, 2012 at 3:10 AM Post #5,753 of 11,345
i have a very natural sounding fotex t50rp i did but i'm not exposing my secrets. all i can tell you as a hint it's all reversible and, of course, it's made with love and magic.
 
Jan 8, 2012 at 6:25 AM Post #5,755 of 11,345
 
Why wouldn't you tell us? Lol.


cause it's a secret, duh!

also, what's the point of modding if you can't use your.....

9799140.jpg
 
Jan 8, 2012 at 8:31 AM Post #5,756 of 11,345
so you actually used rainbow dust? does it fix the flabby deep bass of the T50RP and turn it into a massively thick and percussive monster? or do you supply fanboyism pills instead?
very_evil_smiley.gif

 
Jan 8, 2012 at 8:43 AM Post #5,757 of 11,345
so you actually used rainbow dust? does it fix the flabby deep bass of the T50RP and turn it into a massively thick and percussive monster? or do you supply fanboyism pills instead? :veryevil:


i use butterflies. fast,delicate,soothing sound.
 
Jan 8, 2012 at 9:37 AM Post #5,758 of 11,345


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Ok...so....which is the current best mod out of the lot? This thread is an absolute minefield now. Rastapants 2, O2 etc etc. Can anyone post preferences or comparisons?
 
Many thanks!



i think the general consensus is the Rastapants or the Paradox
 
The O2 is a headphone amplifier that is really good for the price you can build it at
 
Jan 8, 2012 at 9:58 AM Post #5,759 of 11,345
BmWr75 simple mods (a BMF variant)
 
I've been restoring and building speakers for a few years now.  So, decided to mod a pair of Foxtex T50RPs using only good practices I've learned from working on speakers.  None of the mods listed below are new, they are just simple ones that are easy to do and really make these cans sound better.
 
1.  Used Plasticine (modeling clay) to create a better seal between the driver baffle and the ear cup (reduces potential air leaks and maybe resonance/vibrations).  Just cut pieces of Plasticine that are approximately the size of the outer groove that runs around the circumference of the ear cup (see picture below courtesy of BlueMonkeyFlyer), placed the Plasticine pieces in the groove and smear it in with your finger.
 
2.  Installed Paxmate (Silverstone) foam in the bottom of the ear cup only (not on the raised area in the center of the cup).  If I didn't already have the Paxmate, would have tried this mod without it and maybe used more cotton (see below) to make up for the missing Paxmate.  The next step may be sufficient to damp the housing and driver.

3.  Installed Riteaid natural adsorbent cotton square (~2.75" x 2.25") in the ear cup.  (This cotton comes in a sheet rolled up in a square box.  You will find it near the gauze and bandages at a Riteaid store.)  Used half the thickness that comes in the Riteaid box. So, one ~2.75" x 2.25" separated into two pieces is all you need to do both ear cups.  Fluff up each square to a uniform thickness by pulling the compressed areas apart with your fingers.  The cotton gets compressed on the edges you cut.  Also, if you put so much cotton in the cup that it gets compressed when the driver baffle is reinstalled, this probably partially defeats the damping ability of the cotton.

4.  Installed Shure 840 pads.
 
5.  EDIT - sealing up the 4 bass port slots 75-80% definitely helps tighten up the bass and improve the extension into the lower octaves IMO.  I used the loop part of some peel and stick velcro (because I had it lying around) to cover the bass ports.  Easy to cut to the correct size and stick right over the bass port felt.
 
This is the second pair of T50RPs I've modded.  On the first set I followed most of BMFs V6.3 mod.  On this second pair, I avoided the messy and more difficult Dynamat/Felt installation on the ear side of the driver baffle......and did not Plasticine load the back of the driver baffle (just to see if this makes a difference, can't tell it does so far).  
 
This second modded T50RP sounds great to me and the bass is much better than stock.
 
The nice thing about these mods is they are simple and don't require chiseling off felt covers or in any way getting a sharp instrument near the driver.  So, risk of damaging the driver is essentially nonexistent.  Just be careful to not stress the wires where they connect to the driver.  Damage risk is minimized if you only open up one ear cup at a time to do the mod.
 
All of these mods are completely and easily reversible also if you don't like them.
 

 
 
Jan 8, 2012 at 3:57 PM Post #5,760 of 11,345

That's excellent news! Closed headphones giving 3D sound are a real boon, because you don't have to spend so much effort making your theater equipment silent. 
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I am pleased to say that although the T50RP's are closed in design, they still can hold there own on the A8 Realiser. I recently did a PRIR of the Acapella Sphäron "Excalibur" http://www.acapella.de/en/hornspeakers/sphaeron_excalibur.php , they have 4 x 15" woofers, a big midrange horn and tweeter. They can go as low as 20hz and the T50RP delivers. The 3D dimensional sound is out of this world.
 
Can't wait for the Stax Omega's, but enjoying the T50RP's in the mean time.



 
 

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