[bluemonkeyflyer]

I assume you listened to them before modding, they were balanced, and you're using the same audio chain before/after your mods. I also assume you have listened to another headphone set with the same audio chain and there is no imbalance. If so, you may have used unequal amounts of materials. Proportionally, the clay is the heaviest of your components and the most likely culprit. If you have accurate scales, you can remove the headband attachment screws allowing you to separately weigh each side without taking them apart. I have found that in order to get reliable weight measurements it is important to hold the other side and headband above the one being weighed so that there is slack in the connecting wires. If they do not weigh the same, you will have to take them apart. Even if they weigh the same, you will have to take them apart to visually inspect the layout of the other 3 components.
 
If you don't have scales, you could take them apart and visually estimate whether or not they appear equal in quantity -  probably not an accurate method. To be sure, you would have to remove the clay (easy if you used plasticine) with miniature flat head screwdrivers. Find just the right size identical containers and compress the clay from each side into its container. This would allow you to see if the volume is the same. Alternatively, you could remove the clay and start with a fresh block. For example, Claytoons comes in 4 oz. blocks. You can cut 1 inch slices and load 1 slice and/or portion of a slice at a time; then repeat the process with the same number of slices on the other side. This method will require accurate measurements all the way around the block and precise cutting to insure that each slice is equal to the others. The left baffle will hold a tiny bit less plasticine than the right baffle due to the open area that "houses" the phono plug jack in the left cup. I have never heard an imbalance.
 
Make sure that the amount, shape, and placement of foam, felt, and Dynamat is identical on both sides.
 
Quote:

Can someone please offer some ideas on;
 
I seem to have more bass on the left side I hear it and also feel (with my fingers) more vibration. I performed the same mods on both sides that included Dynamat, foam, felt, and modeling clay. 
 
 
I don't really want to open them up that much more but I am willing to in order to get them fixed.
 
 
What is most likely to be the cause?
 
 
Any idea/opinion is welcome.
 
Thanks!

 

 

[Roscoeiii]

Look who seems to be sporting some T50RPs:
 

 
 
And here's a nice interview and performance link:
 
http://www.avclub.com/articles/ben-folds-discusses-and-performs-the-luckiest,64896/
 

 

[Hennyo]

Quote:

FWIW,
 
After more listening time and comparisons with stock T50RP's, LCD2's, and another mod set up differently with regard to plasticine quantity and placement, I have concluded that, for me, "Less Is More" is "Less Is Less." Medium Mass Loading with plasticine or tungsten putty works better, for me. So, you could try this with stock bass port felt in place, white driver felt or Transpore tape over the back of the drivers, acoustic foam of choice in cups, and Dynamat (or similar material) with felt over-lay around ear side of drivers (optional):
 
1. Flush application of plasticine in the baffle compartments.
 
2. Add  ~ 1/2 inch "wall" of plasticine around the driver perimeter and compress it against the driver housing, tapering down to the inner area of baffle-filled compartment. You should now have a 1/4 inch "wall" around the driver housing extending out about 1/4 inch into the inner-most baffles compartments. I find that Medium Mass Loading this way provides more bass detail and quantity, as well as decent treble, than either Flush Mass Loading or "Less Is More" plasticine placement. Generally, less plasticine reduces bass and increases treble, in my opinion.
 
3. Fill the cup outer rings with Paxmate instead of plasticine. I find that Paxmate provides a consistently good seal that remains constant after multiple openings/closings when making other mods or changes to your configuration. Plasticine in the outer cup rings tends to get messy and "migrates" to other areas with multiple openings/closings, losing its initial tight seal.
 
4. I've changed my mind about pads after comparing stock vs 840 pads with a variety of mod configurations. You could try Shure 840 pads for an economical solution for a better seal, better comfort, and improved bass. Pad "lifters" of different diameters and lengths are optional. Tightly rolled up Kleenex tissue glued along the seam works well and stays in place pretty well after compressing them under the pad cushions (ear side of pads).
 

That's what I've done. Elevate the pads, the 840 pads provide a much better seal more more subspace. the Elevated pads create the same effect as the Grado pads. Glad you've changed you mind. =) It is very nice, ehh?
 
I've only put Akasa in the bottoms of the cups and applied hardcore elevated (about 3/4 inch above stock 840 and 1 inch more than stock pads) the 840 pads. Via rolled up tissue pads of steel or kleenex. I've been using it for the last week and comparing it to my other set.
I do feel they measure very similarly to the Paradox.
*They have *good seal, elevated ear chamber from front of driver (this creates bass chamber and boosts highs) farther way away from the ear as soundstage is still larger & more defined. This mod is easy. It basically takes the stock sound and punches some Bass and treble into it. They measure about the same as Paradox. I've been using HD 600 and test-tones as neutral goalposts and yardsticks. I also like LFF, feel they could just use another 2-3db of treble. (particularly 2.5-3.5khz of treble. 5 could also use a very small boost too but I like how they sound now.
 
The shure 840 pads sound 'dark'. That is, they give more physicalness to the notes. It's not such an 'in head' sound anymore. Looking back on it, that was my favorite thing about HD 650, and Lcd-2. They're sounded physically 'over there' and substantially real, rather than an 'in head' and 'theoretical' sound many other headphones (including HD600 albeit it's phenominal tone(!) tend to give. I also like LFF prefer uncompromising fr, that is equal amounts of bass, trebles, and mids. They also sound more open. The comparison to stock pads is not comparable and to stock 840 pads the difference is large. I would say the pads are 60% of this final mod. Elevating them was that good and did great things for the bass / highs. Balancing out the mids-loving, but sub-bass and bottom/ above 1.8khz failing, stock T50rp's. The 10k is good, but basically the stock needs major Sub-bass help and 2/3 as much help above 2Khz - 5khz khz especially.
 
Basically, I took the stock sounds and fixed it's problems: Extended it much much more, while providing a bigger soundstage and better seal. 840 pads elevated as bmf has discovered are essential to good seal and sub-bass I'd heard for the first time out of these headphones. You need cup-space for a larger sound, and you need space from the ear for a bass reverb chamber and to increase the highs. The mids are still nearly just as detailed. Or as LFF said, they are 'detailed enough.'
 
I believe mine measure as LFF's at this point. Or very similarly. I am done here.

 

[leeperry]

 

 
The pads alone cost $120 or $155 new for brown and black respectively

The black version is so much of an improvement that STAX decided to call the very same phone "MK2", they have improved the shape of the memory foam and so. There is really no point in getting the brown one IMO.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Congratulations on your successful mods.  Got pix?
 
I've been trying out all sorts of pad mods with stock and 840 pads over the past week. My conclusion?  I ordered 5 sets of 840 pads from Full Compass two days ago. With shipping, they averaged $16.00 each.
 
Anyone thinking about getting 840 pads better order now They were out of stock at Sweetwater, B&H, and Amazon over the weekend with a statement that read, "Shure has notified us to expect
an unusually long delay before delivery."  I expect the price to go up.
 
Quote:

That's what I've done. Elevate the pads, the 840 pads provide a much better seal more more subspace. the Elevated pads create the same effect as the Grado pads. Glad you've changed you mind. =) It is very nice, ehh?
 
 

 

 

[rhythmdevils]

Quote:

I believe mine measure as LFF's at this point. Or very similarly. I am done here.

It's awesome you're getting the mods better, and it's interesting to read your thoughts, but have you heard LFF's pair?  I don't think you can say something like this without at least hearing his pair or measuring your pair...

 

[SkinnyPuppy]

Quote:

I'll say this before I start but you must be willing to spend money for this particular modification. The pads alone cost $120 or $155 new for brown and black respectively unless you are able to grab one in the FS forums (which is what i did) for a bit cheaper but still expensive. The total cost is probably around $225 or so including the mods.
 
I did a search and found my pictures which you can view here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/452404/just-listened-to-some-fostex-t50rps-today-wow/3885#post_7824377
 
I just have one warning and that is to be very very careful when using dynamat on the inside of the cups because of the wire. The left one is especially hard to work with since there is the wire connecting to the right cup as well as the cable. The only thing that I do not have pictured there is on the outside after closing the inside of the cups. On the outside of the baffle by the earpads I removed the black felt as best as I could which then makes you see the driver more clearly. I then took acoustic foam and covered that area previously that had the black felt except for where you see the driver.
 
If you have any questions feel free to ask.
 

 
 
Would it work with the LCD2 pads as well? I would probably just get the O2 pads but those are also pretty popular with the T50rp mods too.
 

 

[rawrster]

I have no idea about the LCD2 pads. One person to ask would be sphinxv (sorry I know I mispelled this one) but he has the LCD2 pads and tried the O2 pads. I don't know how the LCD2 pads would fit on but that particular mod was made specifically for the O2 pads.

 

[SkinnyPuppy]

Quote:

I have no idea about the LCD2 pads. One person to ask would be sphinxv (sorry I know I mispelled this one) but he has the LCD2 pads and tried the O2 pads. I don't know how the LCD2 pads would fit on but that particular mod was made specifically for the O2 pads.

Eh, i'll get the O2 pads
 
Also, what's the difference between Rastapants V2 and Flysweep's take on the Rastapants?
 
Same thing?

 

[rawrster]

I'm not sure what his mods are or if he did anything additional to th so you would have to ask him.

 

[snakeeater69]

Anyone's T50RP occasionally cuts off or make a clipping noise? Mine kind of does from time to time and it annoyed me so much that I did a quick and dirty re-cable with a monoprice cable I had laying around. Anyhow the problem still persist. Now I thinking it was most likely because my receiver's amp was to weak to drive these properly. The bad thing now is my headphone sounds a lot worst because a lot  clearity has been lost due to the cheap cable. I will do a proper re-cable once my silver plated copper gets here. In the mean time I will most likely end up building and O2 amp in the near future. Could a weak amp possible cause these clipping noise or is it something else? Could plasticsine cause this, because I do see a tiny peice of plasticsine near the solder area? I will definitely clean it once I re-cable.
 
 

 

[SKULL]

After 150 hours listening to the stock t50rp, I decided to start my mods. Anyone can suggest a place to buy the Akasa palmate II within U.S.? Thanks

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=sales/sales.country.tpl&region=North%20America&co=USA
 
Quote:

After 150 hours listening to the stock t50rp, I decided to start my mods. Anyone can suggest a place to buy the Akasa palmate II within U.S.? Thanks

 

 

[LFF]

Quote:

I believe mine measure as LFF's at this point. Or very similarly. I am done here.

Looking forward to seeing your measurements!
 
 

 

[200poundsofamp]

Quote:

I found the T20v2 completely unusable, very hard to drive, exhibiting very poor resolution, I mean? I prefer the $15 KM880 by far: http://vr2xmq-stevesblog.blogspot.com/2009/09/full-size-cans-kanen-km-880-wooden.html
 
We all hear differently, yada yada ^^

 
Maybe you got a dud? The one I got needs a little more power than the T50rp, but they're not hard to drive at all.

Don't notice a massive difference between the two honestly with the same earpads, you can tune them to sound nearly the same. Main difference I can hear is the T50 seems a little more resolving and the T20 is smoother with a bigger soundstage.
 
Quote:

Anyone's T50RP occasionally cuts off or make a clipping noise? Mine kind of does from time to time and it annoyed me so much that I did a quick and dirty re-cable with a monoprice cable I had laying around. Anyhow the problem still persist. Now I thinking it was most likely because my receiver's amp was to weak to drive these properly.
 

Yeah, sounds like your amp is clipping. The stock cable is a little microphonic though.