Nov 14, 2011 at 12:49 AM Post #4,726 of 11,346
Quote:
Yeah pads make just as much difference as the damping.  


Ok.  Listening to the LCD-2 padded T50s for 2-3 hours today has me really wondering what else pads can accomplish.
 
I'd like to hear the HE-6 pads on an LCD-2.  Will it sound brighter?
LCD-2 pads on an HE-6?  There's a whole untapped reserve of unheard flagship HPs out there.
 
By the way, loving the new pads & it's sonic effects. 
 
Nov 14, 2011 at 2:39 AM Post #4,728 of 11,346


Quote:
Have you tried a reflex dot or some felt on the back of the driver instead of using the binding post? To me it does the same thing but sounds even better.



 no, nothing on the back of the driver.  what would you recommend? 
 
Nov 14, 2011 at 3:10 AM Post #4,729 of 11,346
Can someone please offer some ideas on;
 
I seem to have more bass on the left side I hear it and also feel (with my fingers) more vibration. I performed the same mods on both sides that included Dynamat, foam, felt, and modeling clay. 
 
 
I don't really want to open them up that much more but I am willing to in order to get them fixed.
 
 
What is most likely to be the cause?
 
 
Any idea/opinion is welcome.
 
Thanks!
 
Nov 14, 2011 at 3:51 AM Post #4,731 of 11,346
I've modded mine this weekend, used some variation of Less is More mod by BMF and some advice from hennyo (btw, thanks folks). I have:
 
1. Plasticine in the baffles, though not on the outer rim. Pressure equalization vent is open.
2. Paxmate covering bottoms of the cups only. Bass port is open and covered by stock felt.
3. Donut of the hard closed cell foam (5mm) attached to the stock pads to raise them.
4. Medical cotton teased and stretched in the cup space. A lot of it, like 1.5x more than BMF Less is More.
5. Additional cotton under the back of the stock pads to angle them.
6. Bent the headband to make it egg-shaped and distribute the weight more even.
 
I've only started to listen to them at the office, nothing at home can drive them reasonably good.
 
Mid range spike has been reduced substantially, though I'm still hearing it on vocals and pianos. Since now I notice it on any headphone I have, maybe it is something with my psychoacoustics). Bass is slightly dry. Instrument separation, soundstage and naturalness are best of everything I've heard before.
 
I've been told mods are quite dependent on pads so I'm waiting on shure 840 pads to arrive, so I can try them and compare.
 
Snatched another pair from b&p for me and a converted friend of mine. Gonna mod them with AcoustiPack and Dynamat (kindly provided by BMF) when I get them.
 
 
 
 
Nov 14, 2011 at 7:41 AM Post #4,733 of 11,346


Quote:
I dunno, it was on the same stand as a HiFiMan, with a laptop w/ lots of vocal music.
 
It's pads were mad soft too.



That probably was mine as I had a stand with the HE-500 as well. I don't think I saw another T50RP on a stand with a Hifiman. That one would be the Rastapants2 with brown Stax O2 pads. I would have gotten black but I just couldn't get myself to pay $55 more for black.
 
 
Also I did get a chance to hear the Thunderpants as well. It looked great and smeggy does some real nice work. It looks better in person than on a picture. However even after listening to them I just don't feel that they offer better sound than the Rastapants 2 but just slightly different. It also had a real nice comfy headband making me want to do some work on the headband for my T50RP.
 
Nov 14, 2011 at 8:06 AM Post #4,734 of 11,346


Quote:
That probably was mine as I had a stand with the HE-500 as well. I don't think I saw another T50RP on a stand with a Hifiman. That one would be the Rastapants2 with brown Stax O2 pads. I would have gotten black but I just couldn't get myself to pay $55 more for black.
 
 
Also I did get a chance to hear the Thunderpants as well. It looked great and smeggy does some real nice work. It looks better in person than on a picture. However even after listening to them I just don't feel that they offer better sound than the Rastapants 2 but just slightly different. It also had a real nice comfy headband making me want to do some work on the headband for my T50RP.


Sweet, how do I make/buy one?
 
I thought it sounded like a closed Grado w/ better bass.
 
 
Nov 14, 2011 at 8:09 AM Post #4,735 of 11,346


Quote:
wet the tip of your iron with a little solder.  this will help the solder blob on the driver pad flow/melt more easily.  touch the iron tip on the blob for 1 sec and lift - this is a "pre-heat" to reduce the time the the iron is on the driver.  wait a couple of seconds and touch again.  the solder blob should melt and you remove the old wire.  i don't know if you have a temp controlled iron, but i wouldn't leave the tip on the driver for more than 2 sec.  good luck!


Thanks for the tip! been putting this off for a while.  my iron is temperature controlled, what temperature works best for this?
 
Nov 14, 2011 at 8:48 AM Post #4,736 of 11,346
FWIW,
 
After more listening time and comparisons with stock T50RP's, LCD2's, and another mod set up differently with regard to plasticine quantity and placement, I have concluded that, for me, "Less Is More" is "Less Is Less." Medium Mass Loading with plasticine or tungsten putty works better, for me. So, you could try this with stock bass port felt in place, white driver felt or Transpore tape over the back of the drivers, acoustic foam of choice in cups, and Dynamat (or similar material) with felt over-lay around ear side of drivers (optional):
 
1. Flush application of plasticine in the baffle compartments.
 
2. Add  ~ 1/2 inch "wall" of plasticine around the driver perimeter and compress it against the driver housing, tapering down to the inner area of baffle-filled compartment. You should now have a 1/4 inch "wall" around the driver housing extending out about 1/4 inch into the inner-most baffles compartments. I find that Medium Mass Loading this way provides more bass detail and quantity, as well as decent treble, than either Flush Mass Loading or "Less Is More" plasticine placement. Generally, less plasticine reduces bass and increases treble, in my opinion.
 
3. Fill the cup outer rings with Paxmate instead of plasticine. I find that Paxmate provides a consistently good seal that remains constant after multiple openings/closings when making other mods or changes to your configuration. Plasticine in the outer cup rings tends to get messy and "migrates" to other areas with multiple openings/closings, losing its initial tight seal.
 
4. I've changed my mind about pads after comparing stock vs 840 pads with a variety of mod configurations. You could try Shure 840 pads for an economical solution for a better seal, better comfort, and improved bass. Pad "lifters" of different diameters and lengths are optional. Tightly rolled up Kleenex tissue glued along the seam works well and stays in place pretty well after compressing them under the pad cushions (ear side of pads).
 
Quote:
I've modded mine this weekend, used some variation of Less is More mod by BMF and some advice from hennyo (btw, thanks folks). I have:
 
1. Plasticine in the baffles, though not on the outer rim. Pressure equalization vent is open.
2. Paxmate covering bottoms of the cups only. Bass port is open and covered by stock felt.
3. Donut of the hard closed cell foam (5mm) attached to the stock pads to raise them.
4. Medical cotton teased and stretched in the cup space. A lot of it, like 1.5x more than BMF Less is More.
5. Additional cotton under the back of the stock pads to angle them.
6. Bent the headband to make it egg-shaped and distribute the weight more even.
 
I've only started to listen to them at the office, nothing at home can drive them reasonably good.
 
Mid range spike has been reduced substantially, though I'm still hearing it on vocals and pianos. Since now I notice it on any headphone I have, maybe it is something with my psychoacoustics). Bass is slightly dry. Instrument separation, soundstage and naturalness are best of everything I've heard before.
 
I've been told mods are quite dependent on pads so I'm waiting on shure 840 pads to arrive, so I can try them and compare.
 
Snatched another pair from b&p for me and a converted friend of mine. Gonna mod them with AcoustiPack and Dynamat (kindly provided by BMF) when I get them.
 
 
 



 
 
Nov 14, 2011 at 9:37 AM Post #4,737 of 11,346


Quote:
Sweet, how do I make/buy one?
 
I thought it sounded like a closed Grado w/ better bass.
 


I'll say this before I start but you must be willing to spend money for this particular modification. The pads alone cost $120 or $155 new for brown and black respectively unless you are able to grab one in the FS forums (which is what i did) for a bit cheaper but still expensive. The total cost is probably around $225 or so including the mods.
 
I did a search and found my pictures which you can view here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/452404/just-listened-to-some-fostex-t50rps-today-wow/3885#post_7824377
 
I just have one warning and that is to be very very careful when using dynamat on the inside of the cups because of the wire. The left one is especially hard to work with since there is the wire connecting to the right cup as well as the cable. The only thing that I do not have pictured there is on the outside after closing the inside of the cups. On the outside of the baffle by the earpads I removed the black felt as best as I could which then makes you see the driver more clearly. I then took acoustic foam and covered that area previously that had the black felt except for where you see the driver.
 
If you have any questions feel free to ask.
 
 
Nov 14, 2011 at 10:49 AM Post #4,738 of 11,346
Can you please confirm that the Bass port is completely close by the electrical tape from the inside and covert by dynamat?  no bass vent at all in that design?
 
 
I'm asking because I tryied this configuration and found the bass was very tight (Good way) but the rest sounded muffled and congested??? Not sure I did wrong.
 
Compare to your Magnum how would you rate the high frequency of the T50rp (Just as a reference for me)
 
Thanks!

 
Quote:
I'll say this before I start but you must be willing to spend money for this particular modification. The pads alone cost $120 or $155 new for brown and black respectively unless you are able to grab one in the FS forums (which is what i did) for a bit cheaper but still expensive. The total cost is probably around $225 or so including the mods.
 
I did a search and found my pictures which you can view here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/452404/just-listened-to-some-fostex-t50rps-today-wow/3885#post_7824377
 
I just have one warning and that is to be very very careful when using dynamat on the inside of the cups because of the wire. The left one is especially hard to work with since there is the wire connecting to the right cup as well as the cable. The only thing that I do not have pictured there is on the outside after closing the inside of the cups. On the outside of the baffle by the earpads I removed the black felt as best as I could which then makes you see the driver more clearly. I then took acoustic foam and covered that area previously that had the black felt except for where you see the driver.
 
If you have any questions feel free to ask.
 



 
 
Nov 14, 2011 at 10:58 AM Post #4,739 of 11,346


Quote:
Can you please confirm that the Bass port is completely close by the electrical tape from the inside and covert by dynamat?  no bass vent at all in that design?
 
 
I'm asking because I tryied this configuration and found the bass was very tight (Good way) but the rest sounded muffled and congested??? Not sure I did wrong.
 
Compare to your Magnum how would you rate the high frequency of the T50rp (Just as a reference for me)
 
Thanks!

 
I removed the stock felt covering the port and right now it has electrical tape and is completely closed. There is dynamat on top of that area I believe but i would look at the pictures in the link i posted since I don't quite remember.
 
I do not know about the magnums as I have not heard them in 2 months or so and won't be back in my possession for another 2 months or so.
 
Nov 14, 2011 at 11:15 AM Post #4,740 of 11,346


Quote:
Thanks for the tip! been putting this off for a while.  my iron is temperature controlled, what temperature works best for this?


there are no absolute temp recommendations.  i've developed my soldering style/technique at 400-425C for 90% of my soldering.  for SMD stuff that have smaller pcb/component pads i usually run at 375C.  for chassis mount components like jacks/plugs with larger surface areas that aren't at risk of being damaged, i go 800C.  it's a personal preference, and you could solder anything at 800C with proper technique.  the solder blob and minimal/delicate pcb tracing on the Fostex should be easy to melt at 375-400C as long as you have a small dab of solder on the tip before you hit it.  just don't leave the heat on it too long.  heat it in steps if need be, but at 375-400 it should melt the solder on the first or maybe second hit depending on the tip style.  my long winded answer makes it sound more complicated than it is.  also, when you solder the new wire on, pre-tin the business end and bend it so that it will lay flat on the pad, set it on top of the blob left on the pad, hit the blob/wire with the iron, and settle the wire into the blob on the pad.  repeat and rinse...
 

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