[artnoi]

I'm getting some rattling in the right cup on certain bass notes. If I put some pressure on the cup to my head (just a little), it goes away. Has anyone else had this issue? I can't find any loose screws or anything like that.

lol this is exactly my problem with my current T60RP.

 

[Shroomalistic]

I bought a small 20w+20w speaker amp to try with my t50rp. Its 20w at 4ohms so it should cut down quite a bit with the fostex 50 ohms.

When using a speaker amp, besides keeping the volume knob low, is there anything special i need to do. I want to start buy hooking a cable to the speaker out jacks on the back. Since my cable is 3 wire, Can i just jump the left - and right - grounds and put the left + and right +.on there single cables?

 

[jimmers]

I bought a small 20w+20w speaker amp to try with my t50rp. Its 20w at 4ohms so it should cut down quite a bit with the fostex 50 ohms.

When using a speaker amp, besides keeping the volume knob low, is there anything special i need to do. I want to start buy hooking a cable to the speaker out jacks on the back. Since my cable is 3 wire, Can i just jump the left - and right - grounds and put the left + and right +.on there single cables?

It depends on the type of amplifier, for example if it is a class AB amp with common negative speaker connections you could use a 3 wire headphone cable but if it is a class D amplifier it most likely won't have common negative speaker outputs as the little class D amps have each channel in a bridge/balanced configuration and you must not connect the two channels speaker negatives to each other, you need a 4 wire balanced connection to the headphones, separate + and - to each side.

 

[Shroomalistic]

its a class D, how will I be able to tell?

 

[Pars]

Do you have a multi-meter (DMM)? If so, in ohms mode, measure between the - speaker outputs. Common ground on these will show a very low value (< 1-2 ohms).

 

[Shroomalistic]

Yes I have a multi meter, was looking at the chip specs


its a cheap $10 amp that I wanted to mess around with. If I kill the amp no biggy, just dont want to kill my cans. it will be here tomorrow.

 

[jimmers]

Yes I have a multi meter, was looking at the chip specs


its a cheap $10 amp that I wanted to mess around with. If I kill the amp no biggy, just dont want to kill my cans. it will be here tomorrow.

You will need balanced headphone connection, 4 wires, don't connect OUT1- to OUT2-

 

[Pars]

Agreed. I wasn't thinking chip amp.
IIRC my T50RP had a 4 wire cable on it stock. YMMV, but easier to rewire/reterminate.

 

[Shroomalistic]

Just need to save up for a emotiva a100. I was thinking I could make something similar.

Any other suggestions. My argons are balanced but my my modded t50’s are not.

 

[jimmers]

Agreed. I wasn't thinking chip amp.
IIRC my T50RP had a 4 wire cable on it stock. YMMV, but easier to rewire/reterminate.

The stock T50RP has a 3.5mm TRS plug - so only 3 wires and to one side only, balanced requires a rewire of the headphones and another socket.

 

[Pars]

Yes, I'm well aware of that as I rewired one pair of mine to balanced, using a mini 4-pin XLR on the headphones. I couldn't recall whether the cable itself actually had 4 conductors in it or not (I didn't reuse it). You would obviously have to use a different connector on both ends though; you are correct. It really isn't very difficult to do though.

 

[Beagle]

I auditioned a pair of these at a local audio store this morning. I heard that they are based on Orthodynamic technology and was really curious about what an Ortho sounds like. I plugged them into my Sony NWZ-A816 MP3 player without expecting much at all. The seller at the store told me that they are "just OK," and I certainly believed him - the price tag on them said "$149", but I knew that these can be bought for even less online, so "hmm yeah..." I thought, "...these are probably just another typical studio monitor in that price range, like Sony V6 or Senn HD280Pro and have all those typical flaws in their sound as well..." But once I plugged them in and hit "play" on my Sony, I was like . How the heck could something so inexpensive sound so damn great?! I was totally blown away by how realistic they sounded! The best thing about these is the mids I think - they are just sooo even and natural! I listened to some of my favorite instrumental and jazz through them and all the instruments and vocals sounded like they were right there beside me! The transient response and clarity of this headphone was also incredible - I've never heard anything quite like this before. The detail resolution seemed even better than that of my ES3X, since I could hear details in the music I've never heard before! The bass seemed to extend very deep and the highs sounded a bit subdued, but still really detailed, clear and natural. Now, this is the first time I've listened to Orthodynamic headphone, so take my impressions with a grain of salt.

Does anybody else here love these guys? I am about to order a pair off ebay. For only $70 + shipping they seem like an incredible bargain for the sound that they produce. I honestly don't think that any armature or dynamic driver based headphone at that price even begins to approach these Fostex cans in sound quality.

Yes, Fostex had a gem with these, Then they went and ruined them.

 

[dnalekaw]

Yes, Fostex had a gem with these, Then they went and ruined them.

Ruined?

 

[dnac]

New owner of T50RP Mk3 here.

Is bass exagerrated in left cup by default in all stock units? Mine are pretty fine otherwise, especially after adding Shure pads, but this bass ruins awesome sound. It's more "boom" and deep around 100-200Hz range in left driver, then it evens out.

Are there any mods that take care of this issue?

 

[dnalekaw]

New owner of T50RP Mk3 here.

Is bass exagerrated in left cup by default in all stock units? Mine are pretty fine otherwise, especially after adding Shure pads, but this bass ruins awesome sound. It's more "boom" and deep around 100-200Hz range in left driver, then it evens out.

Are there any mods that take care of this issue?

Yes, it is most likely because of an inherent issue due to there being a small gap in the 3.5mm connector in the left ear-cup. This, as you say, directly impacts the 100-200 Hz band.

It can be simply fixed by opening the cup up and getting some non-drying modelling clay (e.g. Plasticine) and pushing it all around the connector. Make sure you don't push it so hard that it goes through to the other side (the gap that causes imbalance). This will hopefully seal the gap and fix your issue.