[SonicTheRetard]

Hello I'm new here and too lazy to read 653 pages of threads but I've skipped through a couple.
 
I just received these headphones off of Amazon for $100.
My prior experience is with the Sony MDR V700s, the Technics RPDJ-1200s, and a pair of Shure buds. I am not a DJ nor an audio expert. However I have lurked on this board in the past and have started again due to boredom.
 
 
First impression of the T50RP stock with no burn-in:
 
The bass is muddy, the highs seem a tad restrained, and therefore the mids would seem pronounced. I am driving these straight out of my Macbook and have to stay at full volume to totally get a sound I am semi-satisfied with. Something I would go deaf trying with my Shure buds, which at this moment sound better/sharper/fuller than these T50RPs.
 
There is a decent amount of sound leak. My roommate can hear faint leaks of my music from about 8 feet away, and I have these things snug on my head, albeit volume is at 100% (I do not have a hearing problem).
 
Also there is significant contact static on the input port. Not fully rotating the locking mechanism has produced the best sound, although the left ear is louder than the right no matter how I position the input and output contacts. I'll try what a couple threads have suggested, which involves De-Oxit, a solution of water and baking soda, or replacing the cable with the V-Moda audio only cables. Which sucks because I just spent $15 on a 1/4 to 1/8 adapter prior to getting the headphones. 
 
I listen to a broad range of music, from bass heavy to vocal heavy. No Beiber.  
 
For $100 I guess they're worth it. It was either these or the $250 AIAIAI TMA-1 Studios, which haven't gotten the greatest reviews on this forum. I am not an audiophile by no means so take from this review what may you.  
 
The things I like about the T50RP is I can "feel" some of the more punchier notes on my head. Literally I can feel the vibrations. Something I never really got with my buds and other headphones.
 
I plan on purchasing the Shure 840 pads, and possibly doing the Play-doh and maybe the felt-over-driver mods. Granted I'll probably screw those up somehow but I'll update with any performance changes.

 

[wje]

^^^^
Regarding the channel imbalance, it appears you'll need some De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner.  Don't use the automotive grade contact cleaners, but you need De-Oxit, which is designed for high-level audio and electronic devices.  It is produced by Caig.  You can get it at a local Radio Shack store, a local Guitar Center store, or even through Parts Express.   You simply spray it into the jack on the ear cup.  Then allow it to do its magic and dry.  Also, others have gone ahead with the V-Moda cable.  Yet, the factory cable when the jack has been cleaned up should work well. 
 
The Shure 840 pads are a must, and it's great you've already ordered them.  They should work towards sealing the sound / output much better than the default Fostex pads, which affect both sound, as well as the fit of the headphones.
 
The work on the sound, you'll have to head to the posts by BlueMonkeyFlyer and look at his 8.1 mod, along with the DVB #3 addendum, for one of the best D.I.Y. mods for the Fostex headphones.
 
Best of luck!

 

[SonicTheRetard]

A few questions:
 
1. Is the 8.1 mod and the DBV #3 two separate mods? They seem the same for the most part, just the the DBV #3 mod seems like an abridged version of the 8.1 mod. And no, I did not read them and am totally making it seem like I know what I'm talking about.
 
2. I do all my shopping on Amazon, and they do not carry Newplast. Would any Play-doh like substance that claims non-drying properties suffice? Or does the composition of the "doh" need specific resonant properties?
 
3. Can I use Silverstone (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040JHMH6/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) in lieu of the Acoustipack Lite or Dynamat material? I have no idea what the differences are nor can I say what they are for. I'm assuming they are to dampen and diffuse the audio projection giving the sound a multi-directional effect rather than a straight-from-driver-to-brain feeling.
 
4.  On a scale of 1-10, how much difference in SQ can be achieved by performing the 8.1 and DBV #3 mods?
 
Amazing what you guys have done. I haven't been in front of such thorough documentation since ever.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

A few questions:

1. Is the 8.1 mod and the DBV #3 two separate mods? They seem the same for the most part, just the the DBV #3 mod seems like an abridged version of the 8.1 mod. And no, I did not read them and am totally making it seem like I know what I'm talking about.

2. I do all my shopping on Amazon, and they do not carry Newplast. Would any Play-doh like substance that claims non-drying properties suffice? Or does the composition of the "doh" need specific resonant properties?

3. Can I use Silverstone (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040JHMH6/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

) in lieu of the Acoustipack Lite or Dynamat material? I have no idea what the differences are nor can I say what they are for. I'm assuming they are to dampen and diffuse the audio projection giving the sound a multi-directional effect rather than a straight-from-driver-to-brain feeling.

4.  On a scale of 1-10, how much difference in SQ can be achieved by performing the 8.1 and DBV #3 mods?

Amazing what you guys have done. I haven't been in front of such thorough documentation since ever.

FWIW, skip 8.1 and go straight to DBV #3 "Simplified and Consolidated DBV #3 Pictorial Guide" about half way down Post #1 in Incremental Mods and Measurements just past Graph #55.

Best wishes.

 

[FraGGleR]

Quote:

A few questions:
 
1. Is the 8.1 mod and the DBV #3 two separate mods? They seem the same for the most part, just the the DBV #3 mod seems like an abridged version of the 8.1 mod. And no, I did not read them and am totally making it seem like I know what I'm talking about.
 
2. I do all my shopping on Amazon, and they do not carry Newplast. Would any Play-doh like substance that claims non-drying properties suffice? Or does the composition of the "doh" need specific resonant properties?
 
3. Can I use Silverstone (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040JHMH6/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) in lieu of the Acoustipack Lite or Dynamat material? I have no idea what the differences are nor can I say what they are for. I'm assuming they are to dampen and diffuse the audio projection giving the sound a multi-directional effect rather than a straight-from-driver-to-brain feeling.
 
4.  On a scale of 1-10, how much difference in SQ can be achieved by performing the 8.1 and DBV #3 mods?
 
Amazing what you guys have done. I haven't been in front of such thorough documentation since ever.

Most non-drying clays should work reasonably well.  Claytoons plasticine is what I have used with good effect.  Not sure if you can get it on Amazon or not.  
 
Silverstone is a near identical substitue for Paxmate and a good one for Acoustipack.  Dynamat is a very different material and used for different mods.  Definitely read through the first page where everything is summarized before buying lots of stuff.
 
Every person hears differently, so it is hard to quantify.  I'd say you can get dramatic differences with some mods, but whether they are improvements for you cannot be answered.  I completely believe that BMF's DBV#3 is a very good mod, but I have a slight sensitivity to higher frequencies and found it a little too bright.  My set as they are currently configured are probably not the "best," but they are definitely better sounding than the stock.  I have spent roughly $50 on top of the $75 I paid, and it has been absolutely worth it.  I'm pretty comfortable saying that they compete with headphones twice as much as I paid if not 3 times (starting to stretch there).  

 

[PhaedraCorruption]

I removed the stock white paper on the back of my drivers awhile ago and I think I may have lost them. Anyone have any ideas what would act as a good substitute for the stock stuff? 
 
I have tried thick wool felt, transpore, and micropore already with very little luck. Perhaps a different configuration would do better?

 

[nick n]

go to your local fabric shop and try to get some Remay strips , it's a similar pressed polytype fabric that is often used for making curtains along the top where the hangers go ( strengthens it )etc. Should be on a small roll and there should be a few types, the stuff is generally about3-4 inches wide and however long you want. Very cheap per foot  as in under a buck.
 
Make sure to take a good look at the stock damping pictures here  before you go, it'll be about as close as you can get if you find something. Cheap enough to get a few types to play with. And you can double up, to maybe try damping this way, at the same time as you are adding the white dust cover/slight damping layer back again.

 

[PhaedraCorruption]

Quote:

go to your local fabric shop and try to get some Remay strips , it's a similar pressed polytype fabric that is often used for making curtains along the top where the hangers go ( strengthens it )etc. Should be on a small roll and there should be a few types, the stuff is generally about3-4 inches wide and however long you want. Very cheap per foot  as in under a buck.
 
Make sure to take a good look at the stock damping pictures here  before you go, it'll be about as close as you can get if you find something. Cheap enough to get a few types to play with. And you can double up, to maybe try damping this way, at the same time as you are adding the white dust cover/slight damping layer back again.

I tried it before and all it did was completely slaughter my treble. 

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Quote:

I removed the stock white paper on the back of my drivers awhile ago and I think I may have lost them. Anyone have any ideas what would act as a good substitute for the stock stuff? 
 
I have tried thick wool felt, transpore, and micropore already with very little luck. Perhaps a different configuration would do better?

 
I replied to your question in Incremental Mods and Measurements thread HERE. Hope this helps.

 

[Dgiant]

Could I use Roseart modeling clay instead of newplast?

 

[kalbee]

Quote:

Could I use Roseart modeling clay instead of newplast?

Go for it if it is non-drying clay.
Densities in clay will vary here and there depending on the brand. If you're dead set on following by the letter then you'll need newplast, otherwise you'll have to make compromises and find substitutes. Sometimes these "compromises" will even turn for the better for your setup.

 

[jiminy]

Hi, I have only just become aware to these headphones and am quite interested in doing the mod. I'm based in the uk and have started to price up the materials and I'm already over $100 so it's getting close to the price of buying them pre modded by BMF. This has a lot of advantages and disadvantages but as I enjoyed modding my denons, I would prefer to DIY. What are people's thoughts?
The best thing about having a pre modded pair is I can be certain I have the correct sound.
I'm assuming I only need a small amount of the materials I need, so I'm wondering if anyone has bought the materials and split it in to portions to sell on as a kit for all you need?
Has anyone done this in the uk and did you manage to source the materials easily and at what cost?

Ps. This is a very inspiring thread, great work everyone.

 

[Tangster]

Quote:

Hi, I have only just become aware to these headphones and am quite interested in doing the mod. I'm based in the uk and have started to price up the materials and I'm already over $100 so it's getting close to the price of buying them pre modded by BMF. This has a lot of advantages and disadvantages but as I enjoyed modding my denons, I would prefer to DIY. What are people's thoughts?
The best thing about having a pre modded pair is I can be certain I have the correct sound.
I'm assuming I only need a small amount of the materials I need, so I'm wondering if anyone has bought the materials and split it in to portions to sell on as a kit for all you need?
Has anyone done this in the uk and did you manage to source the materials easily and at what cost?
Ps. This is a very inspiring thread, great work everyone.

I got most of my bits from the Uni engineering department or ebay. The T50RP cost me ~£90100, SHure SRH840 pads I already had, but new ones will cost ~£15, the velour SRH940 pads are slightly more at around £20(I got mine from juno.co.uk). Overall cost was around £160. Pads and the pleather suspension band were the most expensive parts for me.

 

[MuZo2]

Quote:

I'm already over $100 so it's getting close to the price of buying them pre modded by BMF. This has a lot of advantages and disadvantages but as I enjoyed modding my denons, I would prefer to DIY. What are people's thoughts?
 

I dont think anyone sells premodded for less than 250$ . If you would like to mod yourself apart from the modding material you will also need a accurate digital scale. A measurement mic with phantom powersupply. If  you do mic and phantom powersupply by yourself then the modding material , scale and mic would cost you 60$. Add shure pads and you will be at 180$ and lot of your time.
I think in sales section I saw a premodded for £60 from UK you can get those and mod them to your liking.

 

[jiminy]

Cheers guys, it looks like it time for me to do some more research but it looks like I'm in the £160 ($250ish) range, probably a bit more realistically.
I'm not sure about second hand, I would quite like to hear them first and if they have been modded I don't know if they are damaged at all.
Do I really need the microphone bits?
And does it matter if I use tr20/40 or the 50's.