My nearly 100% DIY Fostex T20-RP cans. Headband is still stock, beyerdynamic gel pads. Cotton along the back of the drivers which reside upon a *slightly* extended baffle(1/4").
Drivers reside inside Mahogany stained Maple cups, which are on the slightly shallow side (just about 1/8 of an inch) margins for the driver for air. all sealed together with liquid electrical tape and zap co for can-angle to provide a good seal both for the drivers and around the ears. (they wrap around your ears more like lcd-2 pads, as opposed to the beyers, because of the way I angled the mounts into the cups. 1/4" diameter air holes to allow for air movement, since driver is sealed watertight by the tape/sealant. connected to a mogami cable that has been recut, and the connections all fluxed and resoldered to a 3.5mm neutrik jack.
one cup shows a tension stress mark, which could possibly become a fatal crack in the future, but it's only about ~1/2" long and shows no branches so it will most likely last a long time as long as they are treated well. These cans came to me from Jschristian44, and I basically opened them and ripped them apart within a month of getting them and hearing of everyone's troubles. I can post pictures of what I encountered for anyone who is curious,but lets just say that even if I take these apart now, it's not cosmetically pretty, though it IS cleaned up nicely. The original owner drilled many holes while trying to create a baffle, so there are about 3x as many holes in each cup as there needs to be, and in order to balance tension I only screwed 2 screws into one can instead of three so as to minimize gap and maximize QOS( It's all sealed together anyway). I then restained both cups INSIDE and out, though inside is gloss-free, took off all putty, electrical tape stickyness, felt covering the drivers, soldered the drivers individually , removed the extra 1/4" that was part of the so-called "baffle", and I will probably make a new headband whenever this one shows clear signs of wear and tear, (which it's not). I'll also add maybe one more layer of sealant, as this last layer looked kind of ugly. But yes, these now sound much better, and when compared to my friend's LCD 02 rev 2's, we had a very hard time picking an absolute favorite. When this thing is amped, it's like sonic gold, and I'll be bringing it to RMAF.
How to hide a nightmare with electrical tape 101
Opening them up...yikes.
Fixing them up, not pictured is my metcal and a couple other things. As you can see there was lots of duct tape used, the cup insides weren't stained , there was lots of tack everywhere, and the soldering wasn't exactly good. This was about 2 months ago.
This is how they look now! And they sound extremely good as well.
AS you can see the end result looks nearly identical to the starting. I might even argue that it looks slightly worse. However they sound much better, and they aren't as heavy, greasy, sticky, or wide. And I know that the insides are completed as per MY standards, making them a pleasurable experience to take apart, rather than a scary one. Though they are sealed now so taking them apart would involve removing the tape and resealing them. While they are no longer something I can simply take apart instantly like I could during the time between finally sealing them and opening them for the first time, They sound the way I and others seem to like, and after comparing them to the LCD-02's I really can't argue and I'm no longer skeptical of my friends thoughts,so they're gonna stay that way, and they aren't getting sold any time soon after all.
I've taken my T50RPs as far as they'll go in their original shells, it's time to go bold. 
