[Armaegis]

Ah gotcha. I figured it must have been something like that, but wanted to confirm.
 
Lately I've been using a spray adhesive to stick things together. it's a relatively simple matter to cup up a piece of a paper to mask the parts that you don't want gooped up. This is what I did to affix the felt to the dynamat on the earside of the baffle.
 
Also, when I mass load I bring the putty right up to the edge of the magnet, not just in the baffle. Anyone else do this?

 

[headhog]

Quote:

 
The mods I've been using lately all have the same basic configuration. The biggest differences between mods are the cup filling and the material I use to supplement the white paper on the driver. Here's what's common:

1. Stock felt on cup vents.
2. Stock white paper on driver back
3. Stock dust cover over the driver on the earside.
4. Stock baffle holes (one open, three closed)
5. Cup back: two strips of Acoustipack on the deepest sections of the cup bottom and 1-cm strips of Paxmate on the vertical walls of the cup. Nothing on the tapered outer section of the cup. I filled the groove in the cup that connects with the baffle with plasticine (the white ring visible in accompanying photo). This is probably overkill. You could probably use Paxmate throughout if you don't have Acoustipack.
6. Baffle back: compartments filled flush with tungsten. But plasticine is likely fine.
7. Baffle front: I sanded off the dustcover everywhere except over the driver. I covered the sanded area with B-Quiet (Dynamat equivalent) and covered it with adhesive felt. (The only thing covering the driver is the stock dust cover.)

 
As I mentioned, I bought cubes of Glodan rock wool from a hydroponics shop. I used an old picture frame as the cutting jig to get uniform 1-cm slices. (Note that the rock wool has a "grain" to it. I cut across the grain. The result is that, when the rock wool is installed in the cup, the fibers run perpendicular to the surface of the driver. I'm not sure if that matters or if having the grain parallel to the surface will perform better or worse.) The space between the glass and the frame was 1-cm exactly. I laid the rock wool on the glass and used the surface of the frame to guide the serrated blade of a bread knife. BMF used a fancy bread knife with a laser-guided incision system, I think. : )
 

 
I used a knife to cut a 1-cm-thick slab to fit the back of the cup and accomodate the hanger hump. (Here's a google docs link to a pdf scan of the rough template I used. The dimensions of the printed template should be 5.6 cm x 6.8 cm.) Don't forget to punch out a hole for the hanger hump. Once I had the hanger-hump hole cut out, I took the plug and I cut it to half its thinkness. Here's the result.
 

 
 
And here's the plug re-installed into the hole. Note the dents and divots where I pushed the cup posts into the rock wool.  
 

 
And here's the rock wool installed.
 

 
On the driver, I used two-sided tape to hold in place a 4cm x 4cm piece of (orange) microfiber material cut from a lens-cleaning cloth. 

Nice work i have to give this mod a try.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

I installed the Phantom Power Supply units in tea tins. These kits are based on the original design by symphonic, tea tin mod by micmacmo, and layout mod by wdahm519.  I'm just the solder monkey. 

 
If anyone without soldering skills wants a measurement kit for cost plus shipping, PM me. Since I don't have a "golden ear" or mastering creds, I find a measurement kit is really useful for testing the FR of my mods.  Each kit will come with a pre-wired Panasonic mic to fit in Your ear for measurements! These units will measure in mono and in stereo; for stereo, you will need two mics. See, below, for details.
 

Quote:

Is anyone interested in a measurement kit compatible with Room Equalization Wizard (REW) and Windows/Mac's? I have two. Included will be the phantom power supply that operates on a 9-volt battery and 1 wired Panasonic electret mic (WM-61A) that goes in your ear and takes into account your personal ear shape during measurements.
 
The phantom power supplies are ready to be installed in tea tins. They are identical to the one I copied from wdam519 and pictures are available in the WIKI under BMF V8.1 Mod. The links and tutorial for  setting up and using REW are listed along with the other WIKI documents.
 
I'll send them out for my cost of $35.00, including shipping in the CONUS. Shipping outside the U.S. will be approximately $20.00 more, or $55.00 US, total. I will charge exact shipping and let you know the total before you send any money via Paypal.  I am not profitting.  I made the kits simply for the fun of it and want to make them available to the community because I've found a measurement kit so useful, myself.  I will send them out Only to people who do not have a soldering kit. If you know how to solder, make your own! It's easy.
 
I have tested the measurement kits and they work. I will re-test before shipping. If your kit does not work when you receive it, you can send it back to me for a refund not counting shipping.
 
It would be great if, after you're done modding and measuring, you would make the kit available for someone else at cost plus shipping.
 
If interested, PM me.

 

[nick n]

Mine's arrived and I have to set aside some time for testing, but so much stuff going on. It's sitting there taunting me. Really cool stuff and a great little kit.

 

[headphonatic]

@BMF, so which is better? Rock wool or the Cotton squares, I'm thinking of try the rock wool out.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

^ They are very close to the same SQ and Sound Signture. It will come down to your specific implementation of each configuration, audio chain, and ears for determining which is "Best." Try both and decide for yourself.

 

[mink70]

New to modding, and just began by filling the cups with 3 pulled-apart cotton balls loosely covering the back; the sound is much improved, with every recording now sounding good, as opposed to only some with stock T50s. Next, I want to try b0wl1ng's mod: a piece of black felt on the back of the drivers to go with the cotton in the cups. My question is, how are people attaching felt to the back of the driver? Double-sided tape, glue, something else? Advice will be much appreciated.

 

[mink70]

In realization of my own crap skills, low patience and twitchy temperament as a modder, I've been thinking of simply buying a modded pair of T50s. I'm debating the Paradox and Thunderpants, but have heard neither. Has anyone auditioned both, and willing to offer a comparison?

 

[hans030390]

Quote:

In realization of my own crap skills, low patience and twitchy temperament as a modder, I've been thinking of simply buying a modded pair of T50s. I'm debating the Paradox and Thunderpants, but have heard neither. Has anyone auditioned both, and willing to offer a comparison?

 
Haven't heard the Thunderpants, but the Paradox is worth it if you can get a pair.

 

[mink70]

Quote:

New to modding, and just began by filling the cups with 3 pulled-apart cotton balls loosely covering the back; the sound is much improved, with every recording now sounding good, as opposed to only some with stock T50s. Next, I want to try b0wl1ng's mod: a piece of black felt on the back of the drivers to go with the cotton in the cups. My question is, how are people attaching felt to the back of the driver? Double-sided tape, glue, something else? Advice will be much appreciated.

 
Well, I attached double-sided removable poster tape to the sides of the driver and attached felt to the backs, making sure not to cover up any baffle vents. The sound was bright and abrasive, just awful. Perhaps it was the wrong felt—polyester Rainbow Classic Felt, made from recycled plastic bottles. Certainly sounded like plastic bottles. Good thing the tape was the expensive removable kind and not the permanent version. Now back to cotton, and (kind of) good sound, after 2 useless hours of jabbing at teeny screws and cutting little slivers of felt. Not sure I have the temperament for mechanical experimentation. 
 
Maybe some Paxmate next.

 

[bachiano]

Micmacmo
 
Just tried the plush microfiber.
 
Absolutely Beautiful !!!
 
Thank You
 
Now I have to find the rock wool.
Although I'm now using real lambs wool and I like what I'm hearing.
Quote:

 
 
I tried the rock wool with various materials on the back of the driver (on top of the stock white material). The only effect of these over-the-driver materials was to enhance or decrease the mids and treble, from about 1 kHz up (no effect on lower mids or bass). Plush microfiber (from a dusting cloth) gave the brightest sound, then, in descending order, thin/smooth microfiber (from a lens cleaner), dense cotton (from a nursing pad) and stock material alone.
 
The thin microfiber with the rock wool gave the flattest frequency response and, to my ears, the most pleasing sound. 
 

 

 
 
 
 

 

[proid]

@micmacmo : what's the different between microfiber and no microfiber?

 

[micmacmo]

Quote:

Micmacmo
 
Just tried the plush microfiber.
 
Absolutely Beautiful !!!
 

That's GREAT. Thanks for letting me know how it worked for you!
 
Quote:

@micmacmo : what's the different between microfiber and no microfiber?

 
There are two ways to understand your question. In the first instance, with microfiber, I overlay a single layer of the material on the stock white paper covering the driver and tack it in place with two-sided tape around the periphery of the driver grate. "No microfiber" is just the white paper on its own, no supplementary covering. Otherwise, both have the same rock wool mods I described elsewhere.
 
In the second instance, here's a visual of the FR curves of the three supplementary coverings: plush microfiber with pile (blue), thin, smooth microfiber from lens cleaner (green) and no supplementary covering (red). Click on the graph for a larger version.
 

Did I answer your question?

 

[jgray91]

Quote:

 
There are two ways to understand your question. In the first instance, with microfiber, I overlay a single layer of the material on the stock white paper covering the driver and tack it in place with two-sided tape around the periphery of the driver grate. "No microfiber" is just the white paper on its own, no supplementary covering. Otherwise, both have the same rock wool mods I described elsewhere.
 
In the second instance, here's a visual of the FR curves of the three supplementary coverings: plush microfiber with pile (blue), thin, smooth microfiber from lens cleaner (green) and no supplementary covering (red). Click on the graph for a larger version.
 

Did I answer your question?

It escaped me back then when you posted this up, but all the graphs shown are with rockwool in the cup right? Either way, it seems to increase the bass by a bit as well, especially the plush microfiber one.

 

[rhythmdevils]

So microfiber over the stock damping paper + rockwool turns them into Grados?