[bluemonkeyflyer]

Quote:

It's fun to pop back into this thread and see what's going on!
 
I was listening to Infected Mushroom's new album "Army of Mushrooms", I had to once again mention how much fun Infected mushroom is to listen to with the t50rp's! This is if you can get into that kind of music, I enjoy it mainly for the bass and stark presentation. 
 
Cheers!
 
-M

 Some very wild and unusual stuff!  I like the first track: "Nevermind" with acoustic guitar and middle eastern influences. Others with electronica combined with acoustic instruments. Thanks!

 

[Netdewt]

Just ordered some T20RP, and plan to mod right away. I'll be reading this thread as much as possible!

 

[geetarman49]

simplest way ... get some emery cloth (fine/med) & some light sanding will do the trick.
Quote:

I'm at my wit's end. ... Is there no way to get rid of this enamel coating? ...

 

[mink70]

Also curious to hear how it sounds. Love tubes, but heard the Fostexes do better with ss. 
 
Quote:

Alex --- quite a few are using the o2, but i am using this hybrid amp with a nos 1969 russky reflector 6n23p (note: my project sunrise is a pre-release which i bought preassembled. it was modified from stock to correct deficiencies - the current v2 release of project sunrise do NOT have these deficiencies, but then again, it doesn't have the negative feedback option that mine has either

).  if u r handy with an iron, buy it as a kit & save some $ - see garage1217.com
 
 

 
 
 

 

[shrimants]

Are you just trying to strip the wires so that you can solder them to the new jack you bought?
For wires that thin just use my teeth.

You use yoru teeth to get enamel off? how does that even work? Is it just that I need to get a very small amount of enamel off? My dad suggested that I simply solder using the hottest setting on my iron (Hakko FX-888) and that combined with the flux I use should burn the coating right off anyways and create a clean enough connection. I dont see how I'm supposed to sand the enamel wire down, its too flimsy for me to hold to the pad or anything and its got this weird fiber type material that is wound around it. Am I supposed to scratch the enamel off and then unwind the fibers until the copper underneath is exposed or something?

 

[geetarman49]

Hi Keith,
 
i'm using audio-gd nfb2 dac, but if i were to do it again i'd go with the nfb3 & a di instead for almost the same $.
 
for me, most ss amps are too lean & headphone amps are no exception ... a tube hybrid gives me the best of both worlds.  the selectable feedback cct gives me additional means to tailor the bottom end for added heft/weight & midrange fullness.  ofc, there's also a whole lotta tube-rollin' available for this amp, which is either a blessing or a curse ... LOL.
 
don
Quote:

So, it looks like the fully assembled amp is $245. Looks like no DAC. What DAC are you using? And, how does the amp sound/perform for you? Looks interesting.

 

[geetarman49]

unwind a bit of the fiber coating to expose about an inch of the enameled copper wire.  hold the wire with the exposed end pointing away from you. then lightly sand the exposed wire in one direction only (away from you);  slightly rotate the wire & sand again in the same direction.  keep doing this until the coating has been sanded off the circumference of the wire.   btw, what gauge is your wire?   <edit:  i have enameled wire roughly 28awg and i have no problem using this method>
 
 
Quote:

....  I dont see how I'm supposed to sand the enamel wire down, its too flimsy for me to hold to the pad or anything and its got this weird fiber type material that is wound around it. Am I supposed to scratch the enamel off and then unwind the fibers until the copper underneath is exposed or something?

 

[geetarman49]

the tube is used as a driver; the output stage is ss.  i previously used an all-ss combo dac/hpa (not an o2) & i have absolutely no regrets switching to a hybrid. for me, there is no comparison.  i've used this same rig for hf2, hfi-780, k701, t50rp, rp-htf600 & i'm mightily satisfied, i do declare.  but i had to try quite a few different tubes before i settled on this particular 6n23p reflector.
Quote:

Also curious to hear how it sounds. Love tubes, but heard the Fostexes do better with ss. 
 

 

[sluker]

Are you using the stock wire in the cable that comes with the T50? Mine are covered with plastic/urethane (typical cheap wire with wound copper center). I just bite down and strip it.
I am not sure we are talking about the same thing here. I have built many cables and have not yet come across difficult to strip wire. Do you mind posting a picture, it would give me a better idea of what you are trying to do.
Quote:

You use yoru teeth to get enamel off? how does that even work? Is it just that I need to get a very small amount of enamel off? My dad suggested that I simply solder using the hottest setting on my iron (Hakko FX-888) and that combined with the flux I use should burn the coating right off anyways and create a clean enough connection. I dont see how I'm supposed to sand the enamel wire down, its too flimsy for me to hold to the pad or anything and its got this weird fiber type material that is wound around it. Am I supposed to scratch the enamel off and then unwind the fibers until the copper underneath is exposed or something?

 

[bachiano]

Thought you guys might get a kick out of this 

 

 

[jgray91]

Quote:

Thought you guys might get a kick out of this 

 

A shuffle driving a T50RP? Madness!

 

[rhythmdevils]

 

[shrimants]

Are you using the stock wire in the cable that comes with the T50? Mine are covered with plastic/urethane (typical cheap wire with wound copper center). I just bite down and strip it.
I am not sure we are talking about the same thing here. I have built many cables and have not yet come across difficult to strip wire. Do you mind posting a picture, it would give me a better idea of what you are trying to do.

Here is the stock cable that came with my T50RP. As you can see, it is made of a red, green, and gold enamel coated wire strands that are wrapped around a braided thread core. The other end plugs and twists 90 degrees to lock into the fostex. This end was terminated with a quarter inch jack but the quarter inch jack is completely useless to me. i dont have a single device in the entire house that has a quarter inch female jack so i decided to reterminate with a 3.5mm male. From the looks of it, the only proper way to go about this is to set the soldering iron on high, apply a liberal amount of flux, and hope for the best. I tried unbraiding the wire to see if the core was made of copper but it seems that it is actually just miniscule enamel strands that are braided around a braided core of thread.

 

[Armaegis]

I set my iron on high, put a solder blob on the end, and touch it to the wire. That usually burns the enamel right off without damaging the wire, and also tins the end.

 

[bachiano]

Quote:

Here is the stock cable that came with my T50RP. As you can see, it is made of a red, green, and gold enamel coated wire strands that are wrapped around a braided thread core. The other end plugs and twists 90 degrees to lock into the fostex. This end was terminated with a quarter inch jack but the quarter inch jack is completely useless to me. i dont have a single device in the entire house that has a quarter inch female jack so i decided to reterminate with a 3.5mm male. From the looks of it, the only proper way to go about this is to set the soldering iron on high, apply a liberal amount of flux, and hope for the best. I tried unbraiding the wire to see if the core was made of copper but it seems that it is actually just miniscule enamel strands that are braided around a braided core of thread.

 
I don't understand why you are having trouble with removing the enamel.
 
Unwind the plastic fibers around the wire (you can cut or burn those off too)
Then simply use a lighter to burn off a few millimeters of the ends of the wires.
The second the wires starts to glow , stop.
The black carbon will just rub of with your finger and you are ready to solder.
 
If you have a muiltimeter, then check for conductivity.
 
Hope that helped