[Armaegis]

I simply used a bit of plumber's putty to seal around the jack entry in the left cup. 

 

[paradoxper]

Interesting. Now what about possibly re-terminating and going balanced?

 

[kingoftown1]

Quote:

I simply used a bit of plumber's putty to seal around the jack entry in the left cup. 

I did the same with epoxy putty.   Also put a bit of hot glue around where the cable exits each cup.

 

[kalbee]

Very informative response BMF!
And if I understood well, the previously posted guides also includes the materials required to make the phantom power source?
Heck shoving the mic in a triple flange just sounds so right... definitely better than the cheese stick of a mic the apple inline is.

 

[micmacmo]

Quote:

I have the stock cable housing and I have never heard any channel differences at all.  Only thing I'm careful of is to use the same amount of damping materials in each cup despite the slightly smaller space to work with in the left cup. 

 
Wish I'd shared the same experience.
 
Plus, I want to be clear that my main objective was to simplify mod'ing. With the jack out of the way, I can slap exactly the same materials in both cups and get near identical results (differences in drivers not withstanding.) Easy peasy. (Okay, plus I'd always wanted to do a recable. Now I can say I have! 

 )
 
Quote:

Heck shoving the mic in a triple flange just sounds so right... definitely better than the cheese stick of a mic the apple inline is.

Using an IEM plug of sorts has the added bonus of protecting your eardrums from repeated log sweeps. Just don't use too much hot glue or putty in the triple-flange. If the last flange gets filled, it loses its flexibility and you don't get the same seal in your canal.

 

[zachgraz]

I am getting ready for my first T50RP mod, which I should get in a few days. I have already started collecting materials which could be useful for the mod.
Today I went to a toy shop and found an interesting modelling clay. It consists of maybe 90% styrene balls and therefore is very lightweight. I will use this clay in my Fostex mod instead of heavy standard modelling clays.
This clay is air drying. I dont't know if it is more rubber-like or stiff when it is dry as I have not opened the package yet.
I just wanted to bring to your attention that something like this exists - with its characteristics it could be useful in a variety of dampening projects where weight matters.
 
I wouldnt be surprised if this is listed somewhere on Ebay.... it is called Hi-Art Hi-Clay "BEADY" (the second picture shows a similar product) & is made in Thailand.
 

 

BTW: thanks BMF for sending me all the useful docs.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Quote:

Very informative response BMF!
And if I understood well, the previously posted guides also includes the materials required to make the phantom power source?
Heck shoving the mic in a triple flange just sounds so right... definitely better than the cheese stick of a mic the apple inline is.

I'm happy to help, kalbee. The materials needed for the phantom power supply and mics are listed in the docs I posted last week. The documents can be found in the T50RP Modding Summary WIKI. micmacmo reduced the resolution so the file sizes are more manageable  for downloading.
 
BTW, I think Arleus' detailed post, yesterday, should be added to the WIKI. micmacmo has posted several excellent mods with step-by-step photographs and text explanations that should also be added to the WIKI: headband mod, re-cable mod, Fischer 003 inner tube mod, triple flange mod for the measurement mics, and his phantom power construction tutorial. I'd add them but have not yet taken the time to learn how.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Quote:

great ... looking forward to seeing what effect this had, if any.

I shortened the larger tube so the mic and the IEM were flush with the smaller tube. The results were the same for the artificial ear canal I posted and the shorter version: a steep roll off from 1 kHz down and a steep roll off from 4 kHz and above.  I don't know what's causing this measurement error. More investigation and experimentation will be needed. Hopefully, someone will find a solution.
 
Edit:  I also tried 2 other mics that I know work. The results were the same.
 

 

[geetarman49]

just a wild guess, but possible tube leakage, Keith??   maybe, try packing the ends of the tube with blu-tak to ensure no leakage? 
 

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Quote:

just a wild guess, but possible tube leakage, Keith??   maybe, try packing the ends of the tube with blu-tak to ensure no leakage? 
 

 
I wish. I taped the ends solidly. May try some "tube rolling."

 

[Kibble Fat]

Could the IEM tip have a ripple in it, allowing air to escape? I remember John Conover mentioned this. You have to pick the right size tip. You could try zip-tying the mic-plug end to make sure no air is escaping there -- if you have any doubts.

I finished with those applications, PM coming soon.

 

[sluker]

I think I am done for now

Finished the recable (now i can use all my mini xlr cables) and the "belt headband" mod (I added the Bayer pad around it).
The recable fixed the imbalance on the left side. However, with just felt lined cups and the plasticene around the driver baffles the highs were too bright. I added two cotton balls per side and now all is good.
Until I receive the HM5 pads and have to readjust.
Thanks to everyone here for your advice and ideas.
 
 

 

[paradoxper]

Can anyone link or post the Fostex Koda-2 measurements. If so, I'd appreciate it.

 

[SanjiWatsuki]

Quote:

Can anyone link or post the Fostex Koda-2 measurements. If so, I'd appreciate it.

 
http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/FostexT50RPDIYModifiedlokesen.pdf

 

[paradoxper]

Quote:

 
http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/FostexT50RPDIYModifiedlokesen.pdf

Thank you, Sanji