But keep in mind, that all depends on the pads and specific damping scheme being used. What he's doing is not the same as the mods being done here, so it doesn't apply directly.
Yes, just simply meant that he doesn't immediately have to rip up his work if it sounds good to him. Just saying it can sound great with it closed up and not to be closed minded thinking that you can only achieve good sq with bass ports.
In my first mod attempt, I did what atl5 did (minus the dynamat) and completely covered the inside of the cup (including the port) with silverstone. I also left the felt in place. Taken together when my other mods and change in pads, my resulting trebles were very clean sounding compared to stock, but the bass was severely crippled (in fact, the roll off was laughable when I ran a frequency sweep). In any event, it seems to me that the specifics of what various users have done to their bass ports are highly influential to both the highs and lows on these phones, but these details are often lost in the shuffle when the conversation in the thread often focuses on tape over the back of the driver, loading the baffle, shapes pressed into the plasticine, dynamat or no dynamat, etc... That was my reason for asking. By way of analogy, tiny tiny changes in the rotation of the port screw on Senn IE8's makes, or IMO breaks, the sound of those IEM's.
Having removed the offending square of silverstone from my own pair, while leaving the felt in place, and then covering 2/4 slots from the outside with electrical tape, I am increasingly happy with the performance of my pair, but I totally look forward to future tweaking. I believe I recall seeing some posts a long while back discussing taping the ports completely and then poking one or more holes in the tape with a needle. Sounds like a fun experiment in reference to the basics I've read re the effect of porting subs.
No problem, I figured out why. It was due to the fact that I didn't replace the original felt on the bass ports with duct or electrical tape. I've heard that any acoustic foam place in the interior of the cups outside the little square thing does nothing. Damn, after you said they were as good as or even better than LCD2's I had to try it out for myself.
But keep in mind, that all depends on the pads and specific damping scheme being used. What he's doing is not the same as the mods being done here, so it doesn't apply directly.
But keep in mind, that all depends on the pads and specific damping scheme being used. What he's doing is not the same as the mods being done here, so it doesn't apply directly.
Yes, just simply meant that he doesn't immediately have to rip up his work if it sounds good to him. Just saying it can sound great with it closed up and not to be closed minded thinking that you can only achieve good sq with bass ports.
No reason to be confrontational, he's just trying to help.
And he's right, actually, using the mods that are typically detailed around here, if you seal all the ports you won't have much lower or mid-bass to speak of.
The pads are also part of it. I can get bass extension all the way down with 003 pads and all ports sealed. In fact, the bass can be overwhelming.
But I do think being open minded is a great idea! I find that it's also good not to make too many assumptions (or at least don't get stuck in your assumptions) because acoustics, especially with orthos is very complicated.
But I do think being open minded is a great idea! I find that it's also good not to make too many assumptions (or at least don't get stuck in your assumptions) because acoustics, especially with orthos is very complicated.
I found this to be true in doing measurements. Regardless of how accurate the measurements were (because come on, in comparison to Tyll it was probably bad measurements), I could see the delta change due to the application of the modification. General rules of thumb worked for a large range of frequencies, but it wasn't an even boost in frequency response in a certain section. It would be all over the place, and from there would require further very fine tuning that often went against the grain of what many believe here to achieve a flatter response.
Has anyone tried the Plasti-dip stuff you paint on /dip tool handles into yet for adding vibration control and mass loading in all the rear cup recesses? I picked up a can of the Performix Plasti Dip for sealing the back of some replacement pads that were fabric backed instead of pleather.
Right on the can it says " Insulates: Vibration, deadens sound " Thought maybe it would be worth trying as a mass loader as well as a deadener rather than clay in the rears. Someone's probably tried something similar I couldn't find anything in the search though. Looks like it's easy to simply paint in/on in layers.
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