[TierAngst]

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I've heard a few people claiming LFF's Paradox modded T50RPs were 2nd only to the highest end Stax at some recent meeting. I think the reality is that the T50RP has the potential to be as good or better than the flagship orthodynamics given the proper mods. Now, given that LFF doesn't share his mods, the majority of people probably won't get their T50RPs quite to that level.
 

 
From the short conversation I had with him I think there are a few reasons for this. He said his mods are completely different than what everyone else is doing and he puts two weeks of tuning into them. I've heard people say things like "I had to dedicate a whole day to mod them", and I thought that seemed like a long time until he said two weeks worth of modding. Granted I don't think he puts 8 hour days into them but it's not a quick process whatever it is and may be beyond most people's ability, patience and equipment to setup. 

 

[mmayer167]

I guarantee by most people's standards the bass of the Paradox would be too light. There is good quality bass that goes super deep but it doesn't hit you like some of the mods i have done previously. The Paradox are extremely flat, they just get out of the way of the music. The stark clarity is their major trait. If you want a fun headphone know that what ya'll are doing mod wise makes a fun can. It is really hard to explain their sound because they really don't sound much at all like the t50rp I knew before i heard the paradox. Anywho, enough ramble, if you feel like you want me to elaborate on any of this just PM me. 
 
-M

 

[wje]

 
Quote:

Hey wje, does the pulled off solder joint seem re-connectable with small bolts n washers n nuts?

I don't think I'd opt for that route because the wire trace itself is embedded within those two layers of thin, brown film.   Instead, I still think it can be attacked with solder, if done properly.  For example:
 

• You could use a small piece of sandpaper to "rough" up the connection spot, so the solder could grab on better.
• Keep your mind off reconnecting the wire at first.  You want to re-establish a new solder dot to attach the wire to first.
• I have a very small tin of tip cleaner / flux / solder for tinning the tip container that I use when I solder with a spool of solder.
• The small container, while it costs $8.00 or so, can be a life saver.
• I dip my tip in that container to get it tinned / coated.
• I then try to establish a new dot on the solder tab of the driver.
• I do no keep the iron on or in that area very long.  You don't want to destroy the film and wire trace while trying to establish a new wire dot.
• If the small container of flux / tinner doesn't work immediately, I've held my iron about 1" above the "dot" and then pushed in some solder from the spool into the tip of the iron - in hopes that it would heat up, then a bubble of hot solder would drop onto the spot and adhere.
• If you get some solder re-established on the dot, see if you can build it up slightly with a bit more solder - just slightly.
• Then, tin the ends of your wire with some fresh solder.
• Tin the tip of your iron to get some solder in place on there.
• Move in on the new dot and attach the wire lead.

 
Good luck!
 

 

[hans030390]

Quote:

From the short conversation I had with him I think there are a few reasons for this. He said his mods are completely different than what everyone else is doing and he puts two weeks of tuning into them. I've heard people say things like "I had to dedicate a whole day to mod them", and I thought that seemed like a long time until he said two weeks worth of modding. Granted I don't think he puts 8 hour days into them but it's not a quick process whatever it is and may be beyond most people's ability, patience and equipment to setup. 

I spent several hours doing my initial mods and many weeks tweaking and changing it up (no more than an hour or two a day). I'm not saying my mods compare to LFF's, but it certainly is a long process.
 
Quote:

I guarantee by most people's standards the bass of the Paradox would be too light. There is good quality bass that goes super deep but it doesn't hit you like some of the mods i have done previously. The Paradox are extremely flat, they just get out of the way of the music. The stark clarity is their major trait. If you want a fun headphone know that what ya'll are doing mod wise makes a fun can. It is really hard to explain their sound because they really don't sound much at all like the t50rp I knew before i heard the paradox. Anywho, enough ramble, if you feel like you want me to elaborate on any of this just PM me. 
 
-M

That's encouraging, then. Low bass is not a strong suit for my modded T50RPs, but they sound fantastic to my ears aside from that. Very clear, well defined, and detailed all around. 

 

[wje]

Quote:

He said his mods are completely different than what everyone else is doing and he puts two weeks of tuning into them.

It's kind of like the research and development of most companies.  They make several attempts at an item until it gets just "right".  However, it's at that point where things are right, one can then begin the process of repeating what took two weeks to work the kinks out and reproduce it in less than two hours.  Now, if you're into the business of selling a highly tuned, quality, modified T50RP, the time spent will be paid off.  If you spent 2 weeks, but only did it for yourself and you don't intend to build upon that time to turn it into some profit, then you really have to love the hobby just to spend the time to tune something for just yourself.
 
 

 

[LFF]

Quote:

 


The earlier post about how good the stock config sounds: totally agree. There's nothing "wrong" with them and many right things.
It might be the methodology used. It's entirely possible than LFF's Paradox was modded to be most like a Stax since fast and clean is a common trait.
I know Smeggy said he just did it by ear but it makes perfect sense to a/b them with top hps while configuring them.
Comment LFF?
 
 
 
 

I try to get out and you pull me back in....
 
The original v.1 Paradox was completely tuned by ear. The v.2, which is the second attempt I made, was also tuned by ear. IMHO, the v.2 sounds better than the v.1 and measured slightly better too. People at recent meets heard my v.2's.
 
I never set out to tune them like any other headphone...my aim was to make them sound natural and I use several things to test them to make sure they sound right. That's what takes the most time...getting the sound stage perfectly balanced and getting them to sound right to me. It's not 8 hours a day for two weeks but it is most of my free time for 2 - 3 weeks to get them sounding right. I just made a gaming set for a family member and that set took me 2 months due to the unique mods requested (comfortable, different color, removable microphone, etc) and 3 of those weeks were spend tuning the darn things. My goal was to make a high resolution headphone that had no sonic signature of it's own. I still tune every single one by ear. If people say they sound like a high end Stax...well...I'm honestly flattered by the comparison.
 
I know by tests that my Paradox measures almost flat and the bass extends down to 13Hz at normal volume levels. It can put out serious amounts of low end bass IF the recording contains it. Most mastering tends to emphasize bass in the 50Hz - 120Hz region and this lends itself to many headphones pumping out bass. On the Paradox, these boosts tend to sound flabby and just wrong (which they are). Making a T50RP sound fun is relatively easy IMHO. Color is cheap which is why the high price of the LCD-3 really puzzles me....clarity, speed, detail retrieval, and accuracy are what I crave and need. The Paradox does that for me while being super comfortable at the same time. I really have no complaints regarding my headphones.

 

[junkers]

Was there a particular reason why LFF doesn't post the mod?

 

[proid]

Quote:

I try to get out and you pull me back in....
 
The original v.1 Paradox was completely tuned by ear. The v.2, which is the second attempt I made, was also tuned by ear. IMHO, the v.2 sounds better than the v.1 and measured slightly better too. People at recent meets heard my v.2's.
 
I never set out to tune them like any other headphone...my aim was to make them sound natural and I use several things to test them to make sure they sound right. That's what takes the most time...getting the sound stage perfectly balanced and getting them to sound right to me. It's not 8 hours a day for two weeks but it is most of my free time for 2 - 3 weeks to get them sounding right. I just made a gaming set for a family member and that set took me 2 months due to the unique mods requested (comfortable, different color, removable microphone, etc) and 3 of those weeks were spend tuning the darn things. My goal was to make a high resolution headphone that had no sonic signature of it's own. I still tune every single one by ear. If people say they sound like a high end Stax...well...I'm honestly flattered by the comparison.
 
I know by tests that my Paradox measures almost flat and the bass extends down to 13Hz at normal volume levels. It can put out serious amounts of low end bass IF the recording contains it. Most mastering tends to emphasize bass in the 50Hz - 120Hz region and this lends itself to many headphones pumping out bass. On the Paradox, these boosts tend to sound flabby and just wrong (which they are). Making a T50RP sound fun is relatively easy IMHO. Color is cheap which is why the high price of the LCD-3 really puzzles me....clarity, speed, detail retrieval, and accuracy are what I crave and need. The Paradox does that for me while being super comfortable at the same time. I really have no complaints regarding my headphones.

I know you won't tell how to do you mod but i'm really curcious how to improve T50rp's soundstage,  especially when you said your paradox even has better ss than many open headphone. I think one of the reason might be the 003 pads is really deep but it's not all. It will be really great if you can give us a hint to open up the T50rp's sound stage, just something to enough to light up our way. Paxmate, felt, plasticine ... these things now become to common, me and other people tried them all, i don't think we can improve the sound more with the old way, yes, we need some fresh idea. But i'm blind at dampen, effect of material to the sound, i wish you can help us, LFF 

 

 

[LFF]

Quote:

Was there a particular reason why LFF doesn't post the mod?

Read below.... or PM me if you wish.....
 


Quote:

I know you won't tell how to do you mod but i'm really curcious how to improve T50rp's soundstage,  especially when you said your paradox even has better ss than many open headphone. I think one of the reason might be the 003 pads is really deep but it's not all. It will be really great if you can give us a hint to open up the T50rp's sound stage, just something to enough to light up our way. Paxmate, felt, plasticine ... these things now become to common, me and other people tried them all, i don't think we can improve the sound more with the old way, yes, we need some fresh idea. But i'm blind at dampen, effect of material to the sound, i wish you can help us, LFF 

 

The ear pads help...yes...but not for the soundstage. Yes...the O2 pads will artificially increase it but that's not what you really want....or is it?

 
I tune the soundstage by ear....and if I am too tired or sick, then I use a scope to verify the soundstage. Most of the time, the issue is the actual stock cable. This is why I have recommended people replace it with the V-Moda cable.
 
A lot of you think there is some huge secret behind my mods and there really isn't. My methods are published (in books) except for one. Even with my one trick...it comes down to carefully tuning them by ear.
 

 

[junkers]

Quote:

A lot of you think there is some huge secret behind my mods and there really isn't. My methods are published (in books) except for one. Even with my one trick...it comes down to carefully tuning them by ear.
 

I'll bite. What books?

 

 

[LFF]

Quote:

I'll bite. What books?

 

No need to bite. Do you want me to spoon feed you?
 
Go to your local library and start reading.....heck...only took me 12 years to get to the point I am at now.

 

[Lurkumaural]

Quote:

Recabling might very well make a difference.  I'd like to try it.  Would appreciate a list of the required materials, suggested places to buy each and pictures of the mod to be posted.  If done, this would be an excellent addition to the Wiki.

 
External pics

 

[kalbee]

 
Quote:

 

I don't think I'd opt for that route because the wire trace itself is embedded within those two layers of thin, brown film.   Instead, I still think it can be attacked with solder, if done properly.  For example:
 

• You could use a small piece of sandpaper to "rough" up the connection spot, so the solder could grab on better.
• Keep your mind off reconnecting the wire at first.  You want to re-establish a new solder dot to attach the wire to first.
• I have a very small tin of tip cleaner / flux / solder for tinning the tip container that I use when I solder with a spool of solder.
• The small container, while it costs $8.00 or so, can be a life saver.
• I dip my tip in that container to get it tinned / coated.
• I then try to establish a new dot on the solder tab of the driver.
• I do no keep the iron on or in that area very long.  You don't want to destroy the film and wire trace while trying to establish a new wire dot.
• If the small container of flux / tinner doesn't work immediately, I've held my iron about 1" above the "dot" and then pushed in some solder from the spool into the tip of the iron - in hopes that it would heat up, then a bubble of hot solder would drop onto the spot and adhere.
• If you get some solder re-established on the dot, see if you can build it up slightly with a bit more solder - just slightly.
• Then, tin the ends of your wire with some fresh solder.
• Tin the tip of your iron to get some solder in place on there.
• Move in on the new dot and attach the wire lead.

 
Good luck!
 

 So it's inside the film... Guess bolt wouldn't do very well. Guess ez mode fix is a no go.
P.S. I didn't pull mines off, it was for a general driver saving idea if any. Thanks for encouragement anyway :b I will use that for my exams lol
 
 

 

[ri_toast]

 
Quote:

<snip>
Even with my one trick...it comes down to carefully tuning them by ear.
 

thanks. sorry to pull you back here to be barraged by curious minds with questions. do bears in the southland hibernate?
 
 

 

[wje]

Quote:

So it's inside the film... Guess bolt wouldn't do very well. Guess ez mode fix is a no go.
P.S. I didn't pull mines off, it was for a general driver saving idea if any. Thanks for encouragement anyway :b I will use that for my exams lol
 

Yeah, the bolt issue would kind of ruin things.  However, places like Parts Express do offer a "paint on" method of solder.  I'm not sure how successful it would be.  I think one might be able to paint some new tabs and maybe, just maybe, some fresh heated solder would stick onto it so that the wires would be able to be properly held in place.  That's just a thought of mine.  I guess I should buy a small bottle of the stuff in the event I truly ever need to resolve an emergency situation.