well im certainly going to be interested to know what a plugin like isone pro can do. its basically a room simulator plugin for foobar, but i used in in conjunction with a parametric equalizer with my thunderpants, and it signfigantly expanded the size of the sound. it was awesome... and im usually not into that kinda stuff.
Smith Realizer sounds like a cool idea but sounds WAAAY too compicated, even for a computer geek like me. So i'm guessing that their market is pretty small consider most people would be too intimidated to set it up.
But back to the JH3a, I absolutely don't want anything gimicky like Dolby Headphone, SRS, etc. I make sure to always turn off EQ on all my equipment (so I'm still not sure how i will be dealing with the adjustable bass control
Just when I thought I'd lost the upgrading bug I find out about the JH-3A and the Solo.
I'm sorely tempted by both but have never dealt with JH Audio before.
Would any members in the UK have advice as to whether I'd be better dealing with JH Audio direct or through their UK distributor, Hand Held Audio.
Going through Hand Held Audio you wont have the hassle of dealing with customs and you have local warranty and service. On the other hand you almost certainly will end up paying more for the end product. You pay and you make your choice. I was happy enough dealing directly with JH for my JH13 but then I had no choice
So I have a general question of possible inconsequence but I'm curious. I assume the physical hardware of the 3A is the same regardless of being tuned for the 13 or 16. Considering the 13 and 16 have a slight variation in sensitivity and impedance is there any electrical math that would suggest one phone is the more ideal pairing for the 3A than the other?
So I have a general question of possible inconsequence but I'm curious. I assume the physical hardware of the 3A is the same regardless of being tuned for the 13 or 16. Considering the 13 and 16 have a slight variation in sensitivity and impedance is there any electrical math that would suggest one phone is the more ideal pairing for the 3A than the other?
I have discussed the very same issue with Jerry Harvey back at Can Jam. I have both the 13 and the 16 and with the passive crossovers, they do have a distinct difference in the way they sound, partly because of the midbass hump on the 16s as well as them being true triple-bore design vs. the dual-bore JH13s. So, they recommend the 13s for studio reference monitors and the 16s for live performances primarily.
This dynamic changes because of the active Xover built into the JH-3A Cirrus DSP chip's software. With that you can program a preset for the JH16 shell to sound exactly like a JH13, but with the benefits of the 3-bore design. By the same token, you cannot do the same to a JH13 shell. Because the price difference is insignificant, I would not advocate ordering the JH13 version unless you are absolutely sure you will never ever listen to a recording that would benefit from the additional JH16 capabilities.
Just my 2 cents, if someone has a more up-to-date info on the latest design elements, please share.
I know there has been some discussion here, and I believe elsewhere, about the inputs to the JH-3A. It was pretty unclear to me me from several recent posts on head-fi, so I sent Jerry an email this morning. In less than a minute I heard back. This is what Jerry said.
I suspect the difference between the JH116 and JH13, or JH16, will be quite large.
If it's any consolation, I was in the same boat - owned the JH13 and debated between upgrading them or getting a JH16 with the JH3A - and although went the other way, the longer this has dragged on, the more I wished I'd just upgraded the JH13s. Only time will tell, but having multiple top IEMs, when there are so many other ways to spend that extra $1K (K1000, LCD2, various DACs for your other cans, Zu Omen speakers, etc.), I'm just not sure the JH13/16 differences compete with those. Course everyones situation is different, but the big jump is supposedly the JH3A, not the 13 to 16. I'd concentrate on that.
Only problem with that is that the insurance is then also $20 in case they get lost or damaged in the post and in case of refits the dealer will have the hassle of sending the back to JH not the buyer. But yes you pay a hefty premium for the convenience
Go through Jh audio direct, it works out 50% cheaper. You can ask them to send it as a Sample which I did and did not have to pay customs fee's as the samples are sent with a $20 value.
OK, that is not allowed nor possible in Denmark but is mostly hypothetical anyway as for most countries outside EU and for several within EU you can't even insure for more than a fixed sum around $50 no matter what the value of the contents is which is a bummer when sending expensive gear to US as courier companies are ridiculusly expensive from Denmark. Sendinding a L3000 2 years ago the best offer I could get was around $300 from UPS
Actually you can still insure the package for what you wish, I always send packages abroad With a hefty insurance but alway put the value as £10 or so.
Just when I thought I'd lost the upgrading bug I find out about the JH-3A and the Solo.
I'm sorely tempted by both but have never dealt with JH Audio before.
Would any members in the UK have advice as to whether I'd be better dealing with JH Audio direct or through their UK distributor, Hand Held Audio.
Just doing a quick calculation XE.com you would save on the JH16's(can't find the price of the jh3a on hand helds site) 391 pounds (sorry, do not have the pound symbol!) by going direct, something tells me even if you take into account shipping and customs you are still saving big time! I would imagine the saving will be even greater on the set up you want!
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