iFi iDSD Micro DSD512 / PCM768 DAC and Headphone Amp. Impressions, Reviews and Comments.
Dec 2, 2014 at 8:00 AM Post #1,786 of 9,047
By the way, I know some of you are looking for a less protruding 1/4' adapter. Besides the one shown on my previous picture , I also find this on Aliexpress:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/6-35mm-to-3-5mm-female-Stereo-Audio-Adapter-FOR-DJ-straight-RF-Coaxial-Adapter-Connector/2028815790.html
 
I ordered a few and already received them. I can verify it is indeed a shorter version as shown in the picture. It is however just nickel plated and not gold plated.
 
Dec 2, 2014 at 8:02 AM Post #1,787 of 9,047
 
Thanks ClieOS...  I will use the Sony by itself at the Gym and the two together when at a coffee shop or when traveling by air.

 
they go great together, you'll love them!
 
Dec 2, 2014 at 1:20 PM Post #1,789 of 9,047
  What is Polarity ( - , + ) in Micro iDSD?

 
This:
 
  Super Duper feature 1.9
 
Signal Polarity +/- (Digital input only)
 

Background
Sometimes referred to as "inverting phase," different people have different opinions on this subject, for example:
 
http://www.absolutepolarity.com/
http://www.positive-feedback.com/Issue1/cjwoodeffect.htm
http://www.polaritylist.com/
http://www.recordingmag.com/resources/resourceDetail/263.html
http://www.6moons.com/industryfeatures/polarity/polarity.html
http://www.herronaudio.com/images/Polarity.pdf
 
 
Explanation
Some people hear an improvement with the polarity adjusted, some people don’t. There is no right or wrong. It is your subjective preference.
 
From AMR's experience, this feature is enjoyed more in the North American market compared to Europe or the rest of the world.
 
 
How this benefits the listener
From recording to recording, try the polarity switch.
 
If you hear a difference, wonderful. The polarity switch means greater enjoyment to you.
 
If you cannot hear a difference, don’t worry, you are not in the minority, leave the polarity switch to its default “+”, non-inventing position.
 
At iFi, we let the listener dial-in the last few percent. So go ahead, flick that button and see if it is your cup of tea. We hope you like it.

 
Dec 2, 2014 at 7:23 PM Post #1,790 of 9,047
Dec 2, 2014 at 9:08 PM Post #1,791 of 9,047
Technically, what does it do?

 
It is based on the theory that somewhere in the recording and mastering chain that some music suffer from phase inversion (and sometime, ever on the playback chain. i.e. some IEM has inverted phase by design to achieve a desired sound signature). In simple: as music is in AC form, it swing from a (+) voltage to a (-) voltage and back all the time. In a signal with inverted phase, you get (-) voltage of equal strength instead of the original (+) voltage, or vise versa. We human however isn't particularly sensitive to the absolute phase so most will never notice any difference. However, some people do believe the 'right' phase restore the musicality back into the recording. The polarity switch is for those people who want to correct the phase issue in their setup. So the (+) option will leave your music as it is, where the (-) option will invert the phase of your music (= two negative give a positive).
 
Or even simpler: Keep it on (+) if you don't hear any difference.
 
Dec 2, 2014 at 9:14 PM Post #1,792 of 9,047
   
It is based on the theory that somewhere in the recording and mastering chain that some music suffer from phase inversion (and sometime, ever on the playback chain. i.e. some IEM has inverted phase by design to achieve a desired sound signature). In simple: as music is in AC form, it swing from a (+) voltage to a (-) voltage and back all the time. In a signal with inverted phase, you get (-) voltage of equal strength instead of the original (+) voltage, or vise versa. We human however isn't particularly sensitive to the absolute phase so most will never notice any difference. However, some people do believe the 'right' phase restore the musicality back into the recording. The polarity switch is for those people who want to correct the phase issue in their setup. So the (+) option will leave your music as it is, where the (-) option will invert the phase of your music (= two negative give a positive).
 
Or even simpler: Keep it on (+) if you don't hear any difference.

Thank you!!, For me i don't hear difference so i keep it ( + )
 
Regards :)
 
Dec 2, 2014 at 9:17 PM Post #1,793 of 9,047
It is based on the theory that somewhere in the recording and mastering chain that some music suffer from phase inversion (and sometime, ever on the playback chain. i.e. some IEM has inverted phase by design to achieve a desired sound signature). In simple: as music is in AC form, it swing from a (+) voltage to a (-) voltage and back all the time. In a signal with inverted phase, you get (-) voltage of equal strength instead of the original (+) voltage, or vise versa. We human however isn't particularly sensitive to the absolute phase so most will never notice any difference. However, some people do believe the 'right' phase restore the musicality back into the recording. The polarity switch is for those people who want to correct the phase issue in their setup. So the (+) option will leave your music as it is, where the (-) option will invert the phase of your music (= two negative give a positive).

Or even simpler: Keep it on (+) if you don't hear any difference.
Thanks!
 
Dec 3, 2014 at 1:45 AM Post #1,794 of 9,047
   
It is based on the theory that somewhere in the recording and mastering chain that some music suffer from phase inversion (and sometime, ever on the playback chain. i.e. some IEM has inverted phase by design to achieve a desired sound signature). In simple: as music is in AC form, it swing from a (+) voltage to a (-) voltage and back all the time. In a signal with inverted phase, you get (-) voltage of equal strength instead of the original (+) voltage, or vise versa. We human however isn't particularly sensitive to the absolute phase so most will never notice any difference. However, some people do believe the 'right' phase restore the musicality back into the recording. The polarity switch is for those people who want to correct the phase issue in their setup. So the (+) option will leave your music as it is, where the (-) option will invert the phase of your music (= two negative give a positive).
 
Or even simpler: Keep it on (+) if you don't hear any difference.


ClieOS, that is a very helpful explanation for us non-audio engineers, thanks. Is it also possible you can clarify the use / optimal settings for the iDSD digital filters as simply? Thus far I prefer the standard (analogue) filter for DSD which seems counterintuitive but "warms" the sound and provides an apparent volume boost or at least thicker signature. For  PCM I generally use Bit-perfect or minimum phase as standard sounds thin with 16 or 24 bit FLAC files. Not sure if any of this has real basis or if it all comes down to trial, error and preference. Still, some underlying theory and principles to guide use would be interesting and much appreciated if they can be in terms as understandable for the non-expert as you offered for polarity.
 
Thanks for your insights!
 
Dec 3, 2014 at 3:41 AM Post #1,795 of 9,047
Have anyone try the micro iDSD with Noble K10 ? 
The K10 is so sensitive that it easily create distorts in some songs.
It would be great If the ifi micro can solve this then :)
 
Dec 3, 2014 at 10:47 AM Post #1,797 of 9,047
   
Be aware that if you're using the 3D effect, you'll send the HP version to your amp and speakers... (and that it is so not cool !
atsmile.gif
  (both versions of 3D are great when applied to the correct piece of equipment 
L3000.gif
))

 

When 3D is active and the line out is set to Preamp then the HP section gets the HP 3D Sound version and the line Feed gets the Speaker version, the speaker version is similar to the "three dot" position on the iTUBE and only for very narrow speaker placement though.
 
Hope this clarifies
smile.gif
 
 
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Dec 3, 2014 at 11:06 AM Post #1,798 of 9,047
I would like some information on the output analogue stage of iFi micro with setting DIRECT, BitPerfect/extreme filters and RCA output:
 
1) In this case I understand that the filter is analogue (not digital) but...is also passive? If not, it is made with discrete components or with a chip?
 
2) The output stage after the filter. Is this a class A stage made with discrete components and the application of feedback? How in general feedback is used in the analogue stages?
 
Dec 3, 2014 at 12:23 PM Post #1,799 of 9,047
 
ClieOS, that is a very helpful explanation for us non-audio engineers, thanks. Is it also possible you can clarify the use / optimal settings for the iDSD digital filters as simply? Thus far I prefer the standard (analogue) filter for DSD which seems counterintuitive but "warms" the sound and provides an apparent volume boost or at least thicker signature. For  PCM I generally use Bit-perfect or minimum phase as standard sounds thin with 16 or 24 bit FLAC files. Not sure if any of this has real basis or if it all comes down to trial, error and preference. Still, some underlying theory and principles to guide use would be interesting and much appreciated if they can be in terms as understandable for the non-expert as you offered for polarity.
 
Thanks for your insights!

 
For what I know, the difference in DSD filters (which are all analogue) are just how far you will set the low pass filter. Due to the 1 bit nature of DSD, you can't apply any digital processing onto it and therefore analogue filter must be used to cut sampling noise out. The filters selection is just a choice for you to set where to cut off. AFAIK, there never seems to be a common standard on this setting so iFi just let you decide for yourself.
 
PCM filter is however a different matter. Standard filter and Minimum Phase are both common filter you will find on PCM based DAC. Standard gives linear measurement result on frequency response, but often less than ideal on phase and ringing. Minimum Phase doesn't have phase and ringing issue, but tends to roll-off at the upper treble. The audible difference is that often people will find Standard filter a bit sharper and more detailed on the top, but also grainy at time. Sometime people described it as 'digital sounding'. Opposite to Standard filter, Minimum Phase filter can be found on many higher end DAC because it tends to sound smoother and more musical, or 'analog sounding', if you will. Bit-Perfect is basically NOS, or Non-OverSampling. It is not exactly a filter per se but more on how the DAC chip is set to sample the signal. It is kind of complicated to fully explain it but the short version is that the DAC chip won't do extra processing to the signal and no filter is used on the output. Instead, it relies on human natural limitation of hearing to stop us from hearing any sampling noise. Because of how it works, it tends to be quite noisy and lousy on the measurement, but also being described as being the most analog, musical and life-like when compared to the common oversampling DAC (such as when you used the Standard and Minimum Phase filter). When it comes to choice, Standard and Minimum Phase filter have their own pros and cons so there isn't a technically better filter to use (though some manufacturer will argue they have developed better filter than the above two, but that's another story). As with Bit-Perfect filter, it is somewhat of a 'doing the wrong thing but has the right result' deal. Even supporter often can't fully explain why they prefer NOS.
 
The whole point, however, is that these filters are there for you to choose from. Despite all the theory, you get to decide which one you like better.
 
Dec 3, 2014 at 12:31 PM Post #1,800 of 9,047
I'm pretty sure I'm not crazy but when used for hours to the extent that it's warm to the touch, the volume potentiometer has much less resistance as compared to being turned on for the first time in a number of hours. There's nothing detrimental to the sound or anything like that. It's just something I've noticed as it moves much much much easier (not necessarily a good thing) but always reverts back.
 

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