[Jasolt]

By braiding he meant "weaving" as you put it, and you do lose about 25-30% of your starting wire length by weaving it. To know which wire is which, when you're all done you can solve it with a continuity test with a cheap voltmeter. You could also use nail polish of different colors to paint the ends before you start, or use colored or labeled tape.

Ohh, thank you man!

 

[Paladin79]

Sorry I got busy and could not answer. By jacket I meant a pvc or rubberized coating that surrounds a group of wires like star quad cable. In audio those wires are often twisted pair. You do not have much loss with it, start with four feet two inches and build a four foot cable.

 

[w45inus]

Interesting project to do at free time

 

[Allanmarcus]

20-30% is quite high, IMHO. even when I use the braiding disk for a super tight braid, I only lose 10%-15%. When I hand braid with a lose braid, I lose very little length. Still, it's better to have too much wire than too little.

 

[Paladin79]

I have had as many as five people learn to braid and oftentimes they end up with the wires at different lengths so they have to be trimmed. For me wire is cheap compared to the time it takes to braid so I allow for a little extra but then we do this for a living and if a customer asks for 4.5 feet, I cannot send them four feet. When you are building a cable for your own use and you are the responsible party, what ever result you get you can live with if you like. I go with at least 20% extra wire as a rule of thumb.

If we do have a few inches of braided wire left and if it is more expensive wire such as Occ copper, we normally build short 3.5 mm interconnects for say going from a phone to a portable amp such as an OPPO HA-2. I am always looking around for those and when you have multiple headphones and cases they are easily misplaced.

 

[kwatch]

It is excellent cable for that usage. Earlier we talked about connectors for such cables.

If you have a digital coaxial input on a device, the cable will handle that signal as well (SPDIF).

Since it is well shielded and made to handle low frequencies well, it makes wonderful Subwoofer cables. Shielding is important on those because of 60 cycle hum.

This is off subject but if you want to read some interesting things about low frequencies, read up on infrasound, sound below 20 cycles. Large animals use it to communicate and at around 15 cycles you are pretty close to the resonant frequency of the human eye. There have been some interesting phenomena associated with that frequency. It is believed that tigers use infrasound to freeze their prey. Belden is in northern Indiana but we also have large feline sanctuaries. One place has over 100 tiger and lion rescues, walk through there and you feel sound as much as you hear it.

I received the 1505F and have a question. Do I have to solder all the shield? Can I trim some of it to make it thin?

 

[Paladin79]

you can most certainly trim some. Generally what I do is make one slice in it and then twist the bundle together. You can thin out the bundle and shorten it as needed. About the only connectors where I might leave the shield intact are some mono quarter inch connectors that have a very wide sleeve portion that will accept more braid. If done correctly you will not run the risk of any of the braid getting close to the center conductor on the cable. I tend to solder most any braid that might come loose to cause a short. Once it has cooled run your fingers over it to make sure no loose strands can move toward the other connection.

 

[ImOverEar]

I am considering making a 2m and a 4m cable for the AKG K812.

Can anyone confirm the pin config for the Lemo 3-pin plug and suggest a suitable cable to use please?

 

[v3kt0r]

Guys, I have JH16v2 and considering to do diy cable to avoid that moon audio which is a big mistake. Can please anyone provide a pinout for their 4-pin connector with or without cable attenuator (bass adjuster).

Thank you all

 

[buke9]

Do not know but I would not give up the bass adjustment as I found it too much fun. Heard it on the Layla's and Lola's and I did like it not for sure on the ones you have but most (not all ) cables for iems are the most outward are positive so you will have to have a multimeter to test that. Are you talking about a 2.5mm balanced cable or something else?

 

[demevalos]

I would like to create a basic 3.5mm cable, but this would be my first go at it. Would I be able to use 3 strands of cheap 16g copper wire? How would it sound compared to more expensive options? Would 16g be too thick to solder and use properly?

 

[Paladin79]

I would not use anything that large. It will be bulky and you would have a hard time using it with some 3.5 mm connectors. If you really, really want to do this, Canare makes a connector you could probably use all right. It is not too thick to solder but you have to consider the lugs or barrel you are trying to solder to. The best connection IMHO is wire looped through a solder lug and then solder applied. I was taught to never rely on the solder itself to hold the connection and you would most likely be tacking that wire to the side of the lugs. Go for 24 awg, or even 22 but save 16 for speaker wire. Sound quality might be all right.

 

[demevalos]

Cool thank you for the reply

 

[Paladin79]

You are most welcome. What length cable are you looking to build? I may be able to send some cable your way no charge that would be more suitable. It was the Canare F12 connector that has a large cable opening by the way.

 

[demevalos]

that would be aweosme! I'm aiming for around 3-4 feet, as it would be used as a daily carry or with a dac very close to me